turbo diesel Willys!

[daniel_buck]

haha, if i were you I'd reserve your judgment on how clean it is until you've seen it in person :yawn: It's my first time doing most of this stuff, I'm learning though!!


As far as the axles go, I'm going to leave them factory for now. Dana 41 in the rear, and Dana 25 up front, with the 5.38 gears and open diffs. In the future, I could see myself looking for some narrow track 44s with maybe an air locker in the front and/or rear.


The radiator as far as I can tell is original, though it's got a new 3 core in it as of last summer.

[daniel_buck]

got the throttle all hooked up! I'm going to replace the small piece of chain that is the last link in the setup, with something else later, not sure what, maybe a rod with a small heim-joint on either side, that would probably do quite nicely.

The video link shows the throttle movement, and the engine stop movement.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hIbA...ature=youtu.be

[Ol Man]

Video is private

[daniel_buck]

sorry about that, guess it defaulted to that. It's public now

[GP4Play]

Very nice

[daniel_buck]

So, I really kinda need to move the horn from the firewall, I need room to put the reservoirs for the dual master cylinder. I really love how this horn sounds, the cartoony sounding MEEP MEEP so I want to re-use it for sure.

I could simply move it to the passenger side firewall, but I'm thinking that my battery may need to be located up against the firewall, and the fuel filter will most likely be mounted there too.

I'm thinking about mounting it on the outside of the fender, like where the blackout light is usually mounted on an MB.

Any reason I shouldn't mount the horn out side on top of the fender? I could make a protective screen mesh for it to keep bugs and what not out of it? Mine is pretty dirty looking, and it works great, so apparently these things don't need to be kept real clean.

[aw12345]

Horns do not like getting water in them. So I would keep it under the hood and mount it in a way that water splash will drain out of it.
Did you get this thing running yet and to the point where it keeps running?

[daniel_buck]

Oh yea, the engine runs just fine. It just wasn't primed fully, still had air in the lines somewhere.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZb82...qaIiKkBtP2Wf5Q

With a shorter bracket for the horn, I can actually mount the horn above the engine, so I'll have room on both sides of the engine on the firewall to mount other things, so I'll do that instead of trying it outside the engine bay.

[daniel_buck]

So, I'm starting to run down my check list to start knocking things out before I'm ready to run this thing. I have a question about the fuel cell rollover vent. On the fuel cell (RCI) on the top there's 3 AN connections. Pickup, return, and rollover vent. I've already got the pickup and return hooked up, but I've temporarily capped off the rollover vent to deal with it later. Well, now is later.


So what should be done with the rollover vent? I'm not real familiar with this stuff. And since it's diesel, anything special need to be done here?

I think I remember discussing this in another thread when I still had the gasoline engine in the jeep, I'm going to find that and read through it again. Does fuel cell information about gasoline all apply to diesel as well?

[daniel_buck]

After being pointed to an article on pirate4x4 about setting up a fuel cell, it seems that the proper routing of the vent line should extend passed both left and right sides of the cell, higher than the cell, and then exit lower than the bottom of the cell.

So that in the event that the check valve doesn't work well, the fuel level in the tank and the routing of the line makes a "plumbers trap" will keep the fuel from guzzling through the vent line. A little may get passed once the vehicle is rolled back over again, but it would be minor. Seems to make sense!

It looks like I have a convenient cross bar right above the tank that would make routing the line pretty easy. I think I'll use hard line, it'll probably look better than just a rubber hose flopping around.


Like this. Blue is the tank, red is the line, and green is where it goes through the tub. catch can/vent would be mounted on the frame rail, below the bottom of the tank. I don't expect to be flopping this thing over, but it is narrow and tall, and if it ever does flop, I want to limit the worst case scenario

[daniel_buck]

I got all the fluids in there today. Transmission, engine, radiator, and fuel tank. And the hand prime pump on the engine easily pulls the fuel from the tank, I was wondering if it would be strong enough to go all the way to the back of the jeep, and up and over the fuel cell, but it has no problems

I tried to start it, but the starter wouldn't go. it just goes CLICK and nothing. So, I pulled the starter off, tried it on the bench and it pops out and spins just fine. I put a big wrench on the crank pulley of the motor to see if maybe it was stuck (it's been sitting dry for at least 2+ months), but it turns easily. So, I'm not quite sure what's wrong. The battery I was using was a yellow top from my TJ, it's got 750 Cold Crank Amps. It's the same battery, cables, and starter that started the motor when it was on the engine stand earlier this summer. But the engine and transmission have been dry for several months, maybe I need a stronger battery to turn it now?

Can I run two 12v batteries (temporarily just to get it started) in parallel, that will give me the same 12v, but with more amps, correct? Or no?

[aw12345]

Check cable connections, probably bad ground cable from batt, to frame, to engine

[daniel_buck]

I'm going directly from the battery to the starter, with standard battery cables (I don't know the gauge, I'll check them tomorrow). Power goes to the power stud on the starter, and ground goes to the top bolt that mounts the starter. And I've wired a temporary switch from the battery to the switch on the starter. I think it's exactly as I did it when I started it on the engine stand, same battery (my TJ battery) same cables, same starter and everything. One the engine stand it fired up instantly after I got all the air blead out of the fuel lines. But it didn't even try to start this time, just a click.

I've got the transmission and transfer case in neutral.

[6spdYJ]

Check continuity on the cables. Sounds like the battery could be weak. When Optimas go they go quick.

[daniel_buck]

I'm not to good with electrical stuff, how do I check continuity of the cables? I have a multi-meter with alot of functions, but have hardly ever used it for anything other than seeing if a wire is hot or not

The battery is fairly new, less than a year, and it's in my TJ which gets driven every day since the willys is under the knife. I'll put the battery on the charger when I get home tomorrow afternoon, and try the starter again the next morning.