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turbo diesel Willys!

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  • As far as I know, it's not adjustable, or at least it's not meant to be without modification to the length of the actuator arm. I think there are ways you can force it to open at a lower or higher PSI by making the arm longer or shorter. Right now mine opens at about 15psi I think. Or, is fully open at 15, one of the two. I never see 15psi, but I get close sometimes.

    It's an IHI-RHF4 which I think was used on older Subaru engines. It's a fairly small turbo, you would probably want something larger on your engine, unless you want instant spool. Even on my 2.2L motor, it builds boost real quick. I probably could have used a larger turbo, but the power is fine, and it's not even intercooled.

    Yours is a 3.8L right? There's calculators online that give you an idea of how large of a turbo you can run, depending on if you want quick spool, or slower spool but more volume or whatever. I don't quite understand it all myself, I just went with this turbo based on a few suggestions from other folks with the same motor.

    For adjustable waste gate, I imagine you'd probably want an external one.
    Last edited by daniel_buck; 02-13-14, 08:24 PM.
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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    • My motor is a 4.1 (same as the 3.8, just the biggest bore they made). I think it was built for turbo originally, it has the tubro version of the connecting rods for that motor and the pistons are dished (estimated compression was around 9:1). For starters I am looking for low boost (under 10), no intercooler, and fairly quick spool. This new motor actually get around pretty well now, but I just want to try it out.

      I am going to look up one of those calculators.

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      • do it! :-D Man, I love the sound of the turbo spooling, I wish my TJ did that too

        I don't know how it is with gas engines, but for the diesel engine, the turbo woke the engine up (that, and adjusting the governor and fuel screw). I drove the little jeep around without the turbo, and it was pretty gutless, but with the turbo, governor adjustment and fuel screw adjustment it really moves Amazing in final gear and overdrive that I can easilly do 55 up pretty much any hill, or I can do 50, or 45, or 40, it doesn't matter, so long as I'm in an RPM range above 1400 or so, it goes up anything :-D

        I'd love to find a dyno and see what kind of numbers it puts down. Maybe we should have a jeep dyno day somewhere ;-)
        [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
        www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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        • That would be fun, I would love to build a dyno someday. My motor is supposed to put out around 240 hp, with a 35% increase at 7-10 psi would get me to 324 hp. I know some of the intercooled versions of this motor break 500 hp but I don't need to push it that far.

          I am looking at possibly getting some turbo headers this weekend. The calculators say gt25 for turbo but it is right on the edge of t3 if I increase the boost level a bit. The t3 is much more common in the aftermarket.

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          • Holy crap, 500hp? Dang, you'll rip your flatty in half like that fool did to his tube chassis on the Back Door challenge at KOH


            I'm not to happy with the turbo header that I have on my motor. It works, but I'm not entirely happy with the placement of the turbo, AND it's a cast manifold. So eventually if I ever get good at TIG welding, I'd love to make my own custom manifold out of tubing.

            The T3 is a small turbo, I think you would do well with that! You don't want a big drag race turbo that needs seconds to spool up, don't go bigger than that, you want something smaller to spool up quickly so you can "throttle out" to save Opy from a potential flop ;-)

            Let me know when you are ready for a dyno day, I might twist the fuel screw on mine another turn or two, just to see what happens, hopefully without a cloud of black smoke

            If I can get free from work for a weekend, we need to setup a flatty run somewhere. I've already driven mine on a 120 mile round trip. so I imagine I can drive it about anywhere so long as I avoid freeways along the way. Opy and "the mutt" must meet on the trail sometime
            Last edited by daniel_buck; 02-14-14, 12:23 AM.
            [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
            www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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            • A taste of images to come. Starting to photograph the "finished" Kubota Willys. :-)

              Photography is what got me into jeeps, and the jeeps have been taking over lately! Time I started taking photos again Will be photographing various parts of the jeep, and full view shots of the jeep in the weeks to come as I hopefully will have more free time soon.


              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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              • Originally posted by jonah View Post
                My motor is a 4.1 (same as the 3.8, just the biggest bore they made). I think it was built for turbo originally, it has the tubro version of the connecting rods for that motor and the pistons are dished (estimated compression was around 9:1). For starters I am looking for low boost (under 10), no intercooler, and fairly quick spool. This new motor actually get around pretty well now, but I just want to try it out.

                I am going to look up one of those calculators.
                Jonah, in 1979 a few Buick Regal 231s came with a turbo and a Q-jet. They might be worth looking up some specs on. The 1985 Buick Grand Nationals also had the turbo with fuel injected 3800's (231). The Buick Grand National GNX had the 3800 twin turbo which was also used on the Pontiac Firebird Firehawk GTX and the GMC Cyclone 4.3. All three of these were absolute screamers. Any one of these should get you some good baseline numbers and components to design from.
                God forgives, rocks don't
                -sons of thunder

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                • Started working on the rear adjustable bump stops. Basically it's going to be a tube with a flange that bolts to the frame, and a nut welded on the inside of the tube, and a bolt that can be adjustable. 3/4" nut and bolt. And I'll figure out a way to get some rubber on the end of the bolt.

                  Welded two washers together, welded a nut to that, and then the nut will slip inside the tube, and then I'll weld the washers to the tube. Not sure if that makes sense, it makes sense to me, but I may not be describing it right.

                  Starting to KIND of get confident with TIG welding. This will be the first useful thing I'm TIGing, not just running lines on plate. Not real pretty like I wish it was, but it'll get there someday I hope I'm still enjoying the slower process. I feel like I'm in control.... I just don't know how to control it all yet






                  [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                  www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                  • A thick rubber funiture coaster will wrap around the end of the bolt, and that will be the contact point with the axle.

                    In retrospect, it probably wasn't necessary to weld two washers together, but I guess I was just to excited to weld something other than practice scrap

                    a hole will go on either side of the tube on the flat bar, and that's how it will bolt to the frame.








                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                    • and another image of the jeep


                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                      • Originally posted by daniel_buck View Post
                        and another image of the jeep


                        Very nice.
                        Rich

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                        • Originally posted by 6spdYJ View Post
                          Jonah, in 1979 a few Buick Regal 231s came with a turbo and a Q-jet. They might be worth looking up some specs on. The 1985 Buick Grand Nationals also had the turbo with fuel injected 3800's (231). The Buick Grand National GNX had the 3800 twin turbo which was also used on the Pontiac Firebird Firehawk GTX and the GMC Cyclone 4.3. All three of these were absolute screamers. Any one of these should get you some good baseline numbers and components to design from.
                          I am about to pick this up on my build thread so I don't keep hijacking this thread, but I will say I now have an 84 Regal turbo (hot air with SFI injection) in my garage. Lots of things to work out...

                          I like the jeep shots!

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                          • Originally posted by jonah View Post
                            I am about to pick this up on my build thread so I don't keep hijacking this thread, but I will say I now have an 84 Regal turbo (hot air with SFI injection) in my garage. Lots of things to work out...
                            Damn I can't wait to see what you come up with in the flatty!!!

                            Originally posted by jonah View Post
                            I like the jeep shots!
                            Thanks More to come, I promise!

                            I'm gonna try to break out the old 8x10 camera and mount a flat bed scanner to the back of it, take a digital scan through an old ass lens It will take a while to get the setup figured out and perfected, but I have hopes that it will work It's a lens from my family's history, I won't say the lens that wins any wars, because no solitary man wins a war
                            [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                            www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                            • That will be cool, similar to the 4x5 betterlight system which always gave incredibly detailed files. I have my 8x10 on my desk, I have been thinking about making some albumen prints, in my spare time, lol.

                              Debating on using the port injection intake and going all out or doing a blow through with my TBI. Switching to port injection will cost more (6 new injectors, fuel rails, regulator, high pressure pump). Not sure if it would be worth it since I can only do batch injection with my controller anyway.

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                              • So I put an adjustable (manual) boost controller on the waste gate. It usued to hardly ever get above 10psi, but now it hits a constant 14-15psi every time I'm in the throttle going up hill.

                                Also got a catch-can on the radiator now as well. A small Gatorade milk-shake bottle that I saw in the grocery store was the perfect size, so that was my lunch. haha

                                And, I found out where my last remaining significant vibration rattle is coming from, the windshield! Well, the inner part of the windshield anyway. I took it off and went for a drive, no rattling!! While driving with it off, I realized that it really does block a good amount of view.


                                I'm contemplating making my own windshield, the one I have is so tweaked, it doesn't lay down on the hood right, and bondo is cracking and flaking off of it in various places, it's got a ton of bondo on it.

                                This is kinda what I'm thinking, not sure what the glass would be made out of, either real tempered & laminated glass, or possibly one of the polycarbonate windshields, if any of them are made that don't scratch super easy. This would give me a bit more visibility, and it would fold down alot lower profile. And, it would match the profile of the cage, instead of being squared off on the top.

                                Lower part of the windshield would be at the level of the cage tube, which would be significantly larger than the current windshield. And, the sides and top of the windshield wouldn't block the view any more than the cage would, I'd make them to be the same dimensions (narrower, and a little bit taller). Without having the inner windshield deal that swings open, the border around the windshield could be thin enough to hide behind the cage tubing I think. (from the drivers point of view)

                                Anyway, it's an idea. We'll see






                                Can see here, how the cage is narrower than the windshield, having a narrower windshield would give more visibility, as well as lowering the lower part of the glass to the cage tube.

                                Last edited by daniel_buck; 03-07-14, 02:11 AM.
                                [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                                www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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