turbo diesel Willys!

[daniel_buck]

in hind site, I should have drilled the hole on the top of the valve cover, there would have been plenty of room for it there. But this spot already had a clearly marked spot for a plug (at least that's what I thought!) So I popped the cover off and drilled the hole. No clue what it was supposed to be fore, but not a plug, that's for sure, haha!

Live and learn. Absolutely worst case, I scrap this cover (or have someone tig weld the hole up) and drill a new hole higher up.

[daniel_buck]

So, I found out what was happening to the old oil cap, the PCV valve was venting to the intake... however since the intake now has boost from a turbo, it was probably forcing pressure into the valve cover and popping off the oil cap! haha! Oh well, so maybe I didn't have to JB weld the nut on there, but we'll see if it holds up. If it does, I'll leave it that way.

So I rigged up a temporary fuel filter for the crank breather tube, clear so that I can see how much oil is actually being spit out. I feel alot of air coming out the top, so I don't think it's to restrictive. But even after driving around for a good 15 minutes, it still looks perfectly clean to me. I'll leave this temporary filter there for a few weeks, and see how much really builds up. If it doesn't build up much, I'll just use one of those regular crank case breathers, or a tube going down the side of the block. The little fuel filter is cute looking, it looks like a stove pipe chimney on a cartoon cottage house or something :dunno:

The fuel cell vent is also temporary, I'll be replacing that with line that is run to avoid spilling in a flop/roll. I just did that so that I don't have to take the cap off every time I drive the vehicle. I'm starting to drive it a bit every day.

I'm driving it to work tomorrow! :gun:

[inVERt'D]

Great to see it coming together. So how do you like the power and driveability?

[daniel_buck]

I've not adjusted the governor yet, but even still, it's more power than the old engine. I can keep it in overdrive up hills and not slow down. :-)

[daniel_buck]

Well, it was all going good, the drive to work was great, and the power is good (even without the governor adjustment!!) But, on a sad note, as I was triumphantly driving the new turbo willys home on it's maiden voyage to and from work, something in the clutch linkage popped as I was shifting into 3rd gear, and i lost the clutch engagement. Got it towed home. Looks like the actual cable that goes into the bell housing is completely missing.

I did walk up the road to where I heard the pop, but I couldn't find anything. I was hoping to find out if it was the clevis/cotter pin that broke, or if it was maybe the ball end on the clutch side that maybe somehow slipped off the clutch fork. I've actually got another clutch cable, and another clutch fork, the original ones that I pulled from the old motor. I assume they can be assembled through the access panel on the top of the bell housing? I bet that will be tricky with it in the jeep! haha I'll dig down in there and see what the clutch fork looks like, maybe that will shed some light on it. I'm gonna have a few beers now :omg: :confused2 :beer: :beer:

[inVERt'D]

Bummer man. Next upgrade/ fab project: hydraulic clutch?

[daniel_buck]

Hah, I hope not!

I don't see why the factory clutch setup shouldn't work. It's using the same clutch (well, a factory spec replacement actually) and the same style clutch linkage, it should hold up just fine.

[inVERt'D]

Wouldn't be a bad idea. Cable clutches aren't the most reliable.

[daniel_buck]

what all would be involved in converting to hydraulic?

[inVERt'D]

Master cylinder mounted to the firewall (may want reinforcement plate(s) there); linkage to clutch pedal; slave cylinder mounted on bracketry bolted to drive train adjacent to clutch T/O fork lever; hydraulic line in-between.

Figure out how much throw you need, what you can make fit, and what cylinders will work for you. Hydro cylinders can be found at JY for cheap. In the meantime run your cable clutch.

[daniel_buck]

hm... there's not a whole lot of room under there, not sure if that would be fun squishing another MC in there, haha

[RAT]

Is the valve cover phenolic plastic? If so you can get a PVC male pipe to female thread adapter and a plug. Drill out the valve cover to the male pipe size and glue it just like you would regular PVC pipe. Phenolic accts very similar and will glue tight just like pvc. Just be sure do drill very slowly in the valve cover. Nice and easy so the bit doesn't bite and crack the cover. There is actually a drill bit style for this but you can modify an old one by grinding a steeper angle on the cutting tip. I can send you a pic if you'd like.

[daniel_buck]

It's aluminum

[inVERt'D]

There are different options for mounting the M/C, I just suggested one. There's good reason you don't see a lot of cable clutches on cars/ trucks these days.

[RAT]

Is the valve cover phenolic plastic? If so you can get a PVC male pipe to female thread adapter and a plug. Drill out the valve cover to the male pipe size and glue it just like you would regular PVC pipe. Phenolic accts very similar and will glue tight just like pvc. Just be sure do drill very slowly in the valve cover. Nice and easy so the bit doesn't bite and crack the cover. There is actually a drill bit style for this but you can modify an old one by grinding a steeper angle on the cutting tip. I can send you a pic if you'd like.