turbo diesel Willys!

[daniel_buck]

Here's how it will go. I'm just balancing the studs on top of the plate right now, I'll drill and tap the holes for the studs once I have the engine in, and know the orientation of the turbo that I want.

I'm still going to port out the exhaust manifold and adapter to be the same diameter as the turbo, it needs to be a bit larger.

[TipsE-Z]

Looks good man! I don't know why Jeep doesn't put a diesel motor as an option for all Jeeps. It just makes more sense for the sort of work a Jeep usually does.

[daniel_buck]

over in Europe, the newer jeeps do get diesels :-\ Not sure if they are turbo or not.

[daniel_buck]

Got the clutch and bellhouseing, and oilpan installed (no photo of the oilpan, sorry!). And I mounted the fuel cell. I've read that it's wise to mount it so that it will reduce vibrations, apparently the aluminum welds might crack otherwise.

In any case, it's a little bit redneck maybe, but I cut up an industrial rubber floor mat, I think this will conform to the (not so flat) floor of the tub, and provide a bit of a cushion for the cell. I also used some old rubber bushings (can't remember what they were from!) and put rubber under the mounting straps, and also on the underside of the tub before the nut and large washer went on. I've also got two thin strips of rubber inbetween the straps and the cell.

There's about 1/4 or less space inbetween the cell and the fender well. If the rubber lets it flex around enough so that it hits the fender well, I'll slide a thin sheet of rubber inbetween them. Hard to tell right now, when it's empty.

I think this should provide a good amount of vibration reduction.

[RAT]

That shiny new fuel cell looks like a diamond in a goat's ass!
Nice little install. Now the CJ will do 125 MPH in the 1/4 mile...

[daniel_buck]

A bit more progress, slowly!

Got the motor mounts and battery tray mount cut off and ground down smooth. The battery tray was kind of part of the passenger motor mount, so I'll figure out something for that later.

Also got the new dual master cylinder bracket bolted on.

Next step, drop the transmission and transfer case so I can clean it up, and determine if I want to have it looked at for a possible refresher, or just replace the gaskets and pop it in again with the engine. I kinda think that I might as well have it looked at and rebuilt, since I have it out, and more torque will be going through it. A few friends are going to come over this saturday to help with that.

[daniel_buck]

Got the transmission and transfer case out. It was actually easier than I thought. Had two friends help me, we used 3 jacks. A jack under both sides of the cross member where it bolts to the frame, and then a 3rd jack on the center rear most part of the skid plate (right near the parking brake). We just slowly let all 3 jacks down one by one at first, an inch at a time, then 1/2 way through we just let all 3 jacks go slowly down at the same time. Then we removed the jacks from underneath the cross member and skid plates (using a crowbar to prop up the skid plate enough to slide the jacks out) And then just dragged it all out from under the jeep. It's not as heavy as I thought it would be.

I will say this, don't forget to disconnect the speedometer cable haha! Not sure if the speedometer cable is still good or not, I'll have to check it with a drill.

In any case, it's in the back of my TJ now, and next weekend (I hope) I'll drop it off to a guy who's a few hours north of me, apparently he's very good with the old transmissions. I'd rather let someone else do that, look at it and see if anything needs to be replaced.

[inVERt'D]

That shiny new fuel cell looks like a diamond in a goat's ass!
Nice little install. Now the CJ will do 125 MPH in the 1/4 mile...

Yeah, just watch out for telephone poles--pesky things!

[daniel_buck]

any reason I could put the tie rod on the upper part of the knuckle, instead of where it's at now, on the lower? I wonder if these old holes in the knuckles are tapered like the newer ones are? I guess I'd just have to drill it out straight, and then insert a tapered sleeve? (I did that on a friend's JK, not the tie rod though, I think it was the drag link that connects directly to the knuckle instead of the tie rod)

Any thoughts on that? I need to replace at least the joints anyway (one of them at least) and I figure since I'm going to do that, and since I have larger tires than stock, I might as well make (or buy) a stronger tie rod and drag link. Might as well flip it up higher to get some more clearance, and to get a better angle on the drag link?


http://www.youtube.com/embed/B4fkt7x0OcU

[inVERt'D]

Certainly looks doable to me. You're not running a track bar, so you don't have to worry about matching that angle.

[daniel_buck]

nope, no track bars or sway bars.

[aw12345]

It should help remove some bump steer

[daniel_buck]

And if anyone here knows anything about Ross steering boxes, is this movement in the output of the box (sector shaft?) normal? or is this a problem?


http://youtu.be/RdM8InpA31w

[aw12345]

Not good. Got a picture of the box? that shows where the adjustments are at?

[daniel_buck]

no I don't, I'll grab a photo tomorrow. It does have a "tight steer" sector shaft tension bolt, that has a heavy spring in it. But apparently that was a futile attempt to tighten up the steering in the passed, haha

Art, you are a wealth of knowledge and experience, I'm glad that you look at and respond to posts like these by rednecks like me