turbo diesel Willys!

[aw12345]

If it draws air in, I would look at the lift pump. However even if it sucks a bit of air it should rev up and keep running if you keep it full throttle.
If it runs long enough you can check for air bubbles in the return line. Another thing to check does the primer pump built resistance as you pump it?. Just listened to the sound of your video, I doubt you are drawing air, especially if it restarts like that immediately after it dies. I would look at the fuel solenoid lever.
i looked at a few Kubota forums Does the fuel solenoid bolt directly to the pump? and the rod on it goes directly inside? If so take the thing off and see if it stays running

[daniel_buck]

I've already got the fuel stop solenoid removed.

Next time I give it a try starting, (after I have a few suggestions from people to try out) I will put a finger or two across the intake, see if I can feel any air rushing in. I'll check for bubbles in the return line. Actually, I'll just replace the return line with some clear tubing so it will be easier to monitor.

The primer pump doesn't seem to build resistance, with the bleed screw open or closed. Not sure if that's normal, or not.


(edit) here it is idling

http://youtu.be/kZb8291E_lo

[daniel_buck]

got the oil pan removed and gasket scraped off, and cleaned up the engine a bit

Next step, remove the flywheel and bell housing.

And my neighbor stopped by for a chat, and drove his 57 chevy that he just finished building. It is super sweet, though I'm partial to the 55's myself, this one is very nice

[daniel_buck]

and I know exactly what I'm doing with this, the upper 1/2 of the old oil pan. This is going to be a picture frame. :-)

[inVERt'D]

I don't know nearly as much about diesels as I'd like to. Seems you bought the hands-on, crash course--great way to learn!

I like the Japanese picture frame. It will compliment your other furniture.

Just a heads-up: you're parked in the red zone. The police are on the way.

[daniel_buck]

Yea, I'm not to thrilled about dropping a Japanese engine into an old Willys, I have always strived to keep any parts that I put onto my jeeps as being USA products. However, the size, output, and dependability of this engine (and the fact that adapters are already made for it!!) just seems to be a perfect mach, just a bit to much to pass up.

Yea, I swung my jeep around in the red zone for a photo! The local officer already knows me, he pulled me over for driving the willys at night with no headlights (literally, no headlights!) But didn't give me a ticket. I think we're cool ;-)

I like re-using parts for other things, and I like attempting to make things myself. So if I ever see a take-off part that could possible be re-used for something else, I save it! The old rear driveshaft in the willys will probably be the stalk of a desk lamp, somehow. haha

[Ol Man]

I like re-using parts for other things, and I like attempting to make things myself. So if I ever see a take-off part that could possible be re-used for something else, I save it! The old rear driveshaft in the willys will probably be the stalk of a desk lamp, somehow. haha

One of the guys in our club (posts here every so often) started by recycling broken Jeep parts for our annual "Broke" trophy. He is quite talented and has produced some wonderful pieces. His blog is here:

http://bucketobolts.blogspot.com/

[daniel_buck]

oh wow, that's cool! Thanks for sharing that link!

[inVERt'D]

Yea, I'm not to thrilled about dropping a Japanese engine into an old Willys, I have always strived to keep any parts that I put onto my jeeps as being USA products. However, the size, output, and dependability of this engine (and the fact that adapters are already made for it!!) just seems to be a perfect mach, just a bit to much to pass up.

I actually wasn't commenting on the Nippon-American thing. I can appreciate the purist thing, but I can also appreciate swapping in an engine that better suits your needs. I don't think it's that ironic. I think a good many of the WWII Jeeps and military trucks still on the road are in places like Japan and the Philippines, usually with Japanese engines. Not only that, but the Japanese manufactured their own jeeps after WWII. Mitsubishi manufactured their own versions of the CJ-3A and CJ-3B. Last Mitsu CJ-3B was manufactured in 1998. Toyota made Jeeps for the U.S. during the Korean War. The Land Cruiser was called Jeep for awhile. WWII spread Jeeps all over the world and spawned knockoffs and copies (licensed and unlicensed) which have been manufactured in numerous countries. The good ol' American Jeep has to be the most international vehicle ever, so run that Kubota diesel proudly!

I like re-using parts for other things, and I like attempting to make things myself. So if I ever see a take-off part that could possible be re-used for something else, I save it! The old rear driveshaft in the willys will probably be the stalk of a desk lamp, somehow. haha

I think we're on a very similar wavelength. Actually a lamp (or three) is on my list to make, and I've been putting aside various parts. I think the Willy's DS would make a great lamp, but you need a base. I have been planning on using a ring gear as a base for one lamp, and a timing chain sprocket for another. I know where I can get a Ford GPW DS, but I don't think I can have it for a lamp . Sounds like you need a bigger yard--in an unincorporated area.

One of the guys in our club (posts here every so often) started by recycling broken Jeep parts for our annual "Broke" trophy. He is quite talented and has produced some wonderful pieces. His blog is here:

http://bucketobolts.blogspot.com/

That stuff is pretty cool!

[daniel_buck]

I got the flywheel and bell housing off, probably not a big deal to most folks here, but it's something I've never done before.

To keep the engine from turning while I broke loose the flywheel bolts, I took a strip of steel flat bar and bolted the flywheel to the bell housing. Worked perfectly Since the engine starts from compression alone, I didn't want this thing firing up on me when I was trying to loosen a bolt, haha!

The flywheel suprised me by how heavy it was. I didn't realize it when I was removing it, but it is heavy! It's about 2" thick! It doesn't look that thick until I removed it. haha! So for the bellhousing, I bolted the housing to the engine stand to let the stand take the weight as I loosened the last bolt and pried it loose. That worked out pretty good.

And, at the end of the day, I went through my table of spare parts and gathered up all the good looking nuts and bolts and washers from the engine so far. I've got a nice hand full of hardware to be used on other projects. I'm happy with that Alot of these bolts look BRAND NEW. And I'm in love with the flywheel bolts, they are very nice, a very fine thread and low profile head with a built-in washer face (however you describe that).

[Black & Tan TJ]

Now you had to go and include that can in the picture. Hope there's more! I'm on my way.

[daniel_buck]

Now you had to go and include that can in the picture. Hope there's more! I'm on my way.

I'm out. All that's left is bubblegum vodka. you're welcome to it ;-)

Seriously though, Dale's has become my stand by brew. I want to try some of their other brews, but I can't find them anywhere.

[Black & Tan TJ]

I'm out. All that's left is bubblegum vodka. you're welcome to it ;-)

Seriously though, Dale's has become my stand by brew. I want to try some of their other brews, but I can't find them anywhere.

Barfing, bubble WHAT!

Total Wine on Hawthorne Blvd has a pretty good selection, Bev Mo OK. There's 4 or 5 regular's then every now and then something special.

Cheers

[daniel_buck]

come on you know you want bubblegum vodka ;-) haha


I'll have to check Beverage Warehouse, which is near me. I always just go to the local grocery store near me to see what they have (Bristol Farms). BW closes before I get home in the evening.

[daniel_buck]

a bit o progress from today

Got the hole for the turbo drain drilled and a spare dipstick tube pounded into the hole. And got the studs inserted for the exhaust manifold. The metal where the hole is for the turbo drain was thicker than I expected, but it drilled just fine. Went slow with some cutting oil, it's at least 1 inch thick, probably 1.5" thick, haha! That's alot of metal shavings! Probably the thickest piece of steel I've ever drilled through.

I ran a tap through the threads for the exhaust manifold to get out any crud in there, there was a decent amount in in there. I think I'm going to pick up a set of metric taps, all I have is standard, and I picked up this one M8 1.25" tap just for the stud holes, since I've now got metric stuff going into my jeep, might as well get a full metric tap set. With the amount of crud that came out of those holes that DID previously have studs in them (removed not a week or two ago) I can't imagine how much crud is in the threads that have been un-used, if I ever want to mount additional brackets for whatever else I might need to mount.

I wasn't able to drill the hole for the actual dip stick, it's directly opposite the turbo drain on the otherside of the motor. But the fuel pump & what not are in the way of me getting a good angle on the block with my drill. Not sure what I'm going to do about that. I'll think of something Maybe even combining the turbo drain hole with a Y connection, so that it's both the turbo drain and the dipstick, meh. Don't really want to remove the fuel pump and stuff just to drill a hole for the dip stick, but it may come down to that.

And I just realized, there's no way to add oil to the engine, haha! The valve cover doesn't have a proper fill cap, since the old oil pan used to have a fill cap on it, the new one doesn't (the new one is much narrower). I'll either pop the valve cover off and drill a hole for a generic/universal filler cap (maybe weld in a bung? if there aren't any press-in bungs?) or just find a valve cover that already has a filler cap if they are cheap enough (some had them, some didn't, apparently)