turbo diesel Willys!

[daniel_buck]

motor mounts are done

I'm not thrilled at how well the welds turned out, I seem to do ok when it's horizontal and I have room to work, but for the vertical and upside down welds where I was cramped and contorted just to see what I was doing, I'm not to happy with those. I did run the welds with 3 passes. Probably overkill, but I figure since I wasn't comfortable with the welds, and it's only 110 power, it probably doesn't hurt to have them multi-passed. Just nobody look on the underside of my motor mounts!!

[inVERt'D]

You sure have it tucked back there nicely. Mounting looks clean too. I'm surprised your hotrod landlord won't give you some 220 love.

[daniel_buck]

He said he did all of his cars with 110 so that gives me a bit more confidence

[daniel_buck]

I'm back in the right thread now :-D

So, there was a bit of binding on the clutch pedal linkage, the clutch cable was a bit to long and was contacting the arm that pulled it, not letting it pull all the way. I trimmed about 1/2 an inch off the threaded rod of the clutch cable, and I think I have full clutch pedal movement now.

However, it's still not acting right, I think.

I'm going to put the rear up on blocks and see if I can figure out what's going on though. If I remember correctly (I was confused at first), I can't roll the vehicle when the transmission is in gear OR in neutral, unless the clutch pedal is pressed. When it's in neutral, it should roll free regardless of the clutch pedal being moved. So, maybe I put on the transmission shifter incorrectly, maybe one of the shift forks isn't seated correctly on the slider gears, or whatever they are called? I'll pop it open tomorrow and take a look.

I opened up the access panel, and everything seems to be looking good, at least as best I can tell having more theoretical/reading knowledge about this stuff, than real world seeing and doing. I see the pressure plate move slightly when the clutch is pressed, and when I roll the vehicle with the clutch pedal pressed, I can see the input shaft rotate the clutch disk. As soon as the pedal is released, everything stops.

So maybe the issue is that the transmission isn't actually in neutral. When I put the transfer case in neutral, it free rolls. But when the transfer case is in gear and the transmission is in neutral, I can't roll it without hitting the clutch

clutch/brake tube mount welded in! I couldn't bolt it in, because the bracket for the new MC was in the way, so I had to weld it in.

When I put the clutch pedal on the tube and hook up all the linkages, somethings not right, I can't press the pedal as far as I used to (about 1/2 as far) and the clutch doesn't disengage. I don't think anything is binding the linkage, I'll check tomorrow though.

Did you use preheat?

I didn't exactly pre-heat the metal, the metal on the frame is so thin (probably 1/8"?), think it might need to be? I did take a torch to the metal quickly to try and burn off any oils after I hit it with a flap disk. It still caught on fire on the back side though, haha! Any time I weld on the willys, it catches fire

But on the subject of pre-heating, since I only have 110 power at the moment, I suppose I should start practicing it. How hot does it need to be for good pre-heating? a few hundred degrees? Just shy of glowing? I've got a BBQ thermometer that goes to at least 500 degrees, I could rest that on the back side of the metal to see how hot it gets when torching it.

[inVERt'D]

You might try just removing the stick shift and manipulating the forks into position with a study screwdriver or something. That has worked for me in the past.

[daniel_buck]

yea, that might be what I do. I've removed the shifter before when I installed the overdrive, maybe I rushed it the second time and didn't get it all lined up correctly.

But as far as the clutch goes, if the input shaft of the transmission and clutch disc move when the vehicle is pushed with clutch pedal pushed down, and they stop when the clutch is let go, that's correct operation, right? Juuust want to double check that, I'm doing alot of things here all at once that I've never done before, just don't want to make stupid mistakes!

[inVERt'D]

If the vehicle is being pushed with the t-case and tranny in gear, then yes, that's what we should expect.

[daniel_buck]

Right, then the problem must be with the transmission, it's not actually in neutral when the shifter is in neutral.

With the transfer case in neutral, it pushes.

[aw12345]

If you had the shift cover off you missed one of the forks it did not slide in it's correct place

[daniel_buck]

little bit of an update. Got the master cylinder installed (still need to tighten the bolts though, I need a second set of hands to do that),

Got the throttle pedal installed, but need to bend the top of the bracket so the cable pulls more straight. I've got the throttle linkage worked out in my head, I just need to make it, I think it'll work good.

And the engine stop cable into the dash.

And yes, I'll paint the throttle pedal. Or maybe I shouldn't.

[inVERt'D]

I like the aluminum pedal. If I painted it at all, it would be with something durable and non-slip.

If you're not keeping that exhaust manifold closed, you really should. In fact, I'm tearing down a Chevy 350 V8 right now. Had one of the head pipes disconnected for a few months. Guess what I found stuffed on top of the #4 exhaust valve when I removed the manifold? A bunch of mouse bait and a couple of acorns. That little bastard must have been doing some real acrobatics to jump up into that manifold, but I should have known better.

Good to see the progress. Did you ever sort out the tranny-in-gear problem?

[daniel_buck]

I'm thinking about gluing some heavy duty rough sandpaper on the clutch and brake pedals. The throttle I never seemed to need more grip even when everything is wet. Probably because it only takes a light touch But the clutch and especially the brake pedal need alot of force! If I do that to the brake and clutch, I may go ahead and do it to the throttle as well, just so they all look the same.

I did have the exhaust covered, but I took it off while mocking up the turbo, and forgot to cover it back up. Thanks for the reminder, I'll cover it up again

I think the transmission issue is ok. I pushed it several more times, and it's getting easier to push while in neutral. Still not as easy to push as when the transfer case is in neutral, but I'm pretty sure everything is ok. When the transmission is in neutral and I push the jeep, the crank pulley doesn't turn, nor does it turn when the transmission is in gear and the clutch is pushed. So i think it's ok. A few guys I talked with said the gears may just need to settle or work a bit loose, and also there's no oil in the transmission just yet, although before I started messing with it, I did squirt oil directly down on the gears so that they had something there.


The shifter forks were lined up correct, and the gears all look correct from folks I've talked to. One of the synchro rings doesn't wiggle when I try to wiggle it with my hands, that may be part of the 'sticky' issue here, I'm going to run it for a short while with the rear wheels off the ground, run it through the gears, then open it up again and see if that synchro ring wiggles as it should.

[aw12345]

After a trans rebuild a synchro can stick, that might be your issue

On your steel pedals you could weld a few beads to make them no slip

[daniel_buck]

The synchro in the middle of the shaft I can wiggle with my finger, but the synchro towards the front of the transmission I can't. Though it does turn and slide along the gears when I roll the jeep forward or backwards.

I'd rather not do anything permanent to the pedals, if I ever decide later on to put in a different (hanging) pedal setup, I'd not want to destroy something that someone else could use to restore a classic The body/tub of my jeep, has so many holes and bondo and fiberglass, I don't care about that, and I'll probably never put a new body on anyway. But parts that I take off or might take off in the future, I try not to butcher. I'm not really into keeping things original, but I know some folks are, so I try and help them out

Though, I suppose the weld spots could be ground off later.

[inVERt'D]

Sounds like you've got it covered. Actually I was thinking mostly of the brake and clutch pedals. Was going to say they've got that old school charm that lasts until the first time your wet boot slips at a bad moment, but I deleted that part. If you're gonna paint 'em, paint 'em to match. Sounds like a good issue for a poll, actually.