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turbo diesel Willys!

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  • got the motor in, and test fitted the radiator. I've got about 1/8" between the waterpump pulley and the radiator fan. haha! I'll move the motor back a bit. Routing the radiator hoses with the radiator shifted over to the passenger side is going to be.... interesting.

    I'm going to move the entire motor and transmission up as high as I can. I think I can move it all up about 3" before I run into problems. That should keep the transmission from hanging down to far. It may actually be higher up than the factory transmission when I'm done. We'll see.










    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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    • Stood in line at the DMV for a while today, and got the jeep registered with the old '46 plate successfully! I was expecting a fight, since there is only one plate (no front plate), but I guess the person I was speaking with had dealt with these old plates before, and had no problem with it. I'll get the official stickers and registration card after about 2 months from Sacramento. LOL

      Damn, it looks so much better than the bright white plate

      Chucky, I owe you a beer or some whiskey, thanks for pointing me towards the plate!

      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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      • Congrats on the plate! I'm glad that you won that battle. The Jeep needs that look.
        Last edited by Mike; 04-14-15, 10:27 PM.
        [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

        I have finally stopped drinking for good.
        Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
        [/COLOR]

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        • Nice. Congrats.
          Check out .

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          • Here's about where It's going to be. The only real tricky part is going to be setting up the clutch linkage. Since it's not a straight shot from the bell housing hole to the clutch pedal tube, the cable will rub the bell housing hole. I need to do somethinking on this. Maybe I can use a pulley wheel or something bolted to the bell housing... Idonno, I'm gonna have to think about this.

            The lowest point is the transfer case drain plug, which is at 16". Frame is at 18"








            [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
            www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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            • I have called my CJ "Bad Company" for a while now. It's time to put the name on the metal




              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww5GXbk58R0

              I have more work done on the willys, will post those photos later.
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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              • Just remember, Bad Company corrupts... But they put on a great concert!
                God forgives, rocks don't
                -sons of thunder

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                • Got the clutch linkage done, and the brake light switch bolted on.

                  Yes, the bolt has been replaced with a proper cotter pin, it was just there to hold things together.



                  [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                  www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                  • Made new frame mounts for the motor mounts. And put in the hydraulic isolators.

                    They squish down at least 1/4" when the weight of the motor is on them, I bet they will definitely provide some additional vibration reduction over the rubber isolators I was using before.

                    I made the 'buckets' for the isolators a bit wide on purpose, with the intention to eventually have them also serve as the mounts for the skid plate. The 20 ton press bent the 1/4" 6" wide flat bar no problem.

                    I raised the motor just a tad bit more, still plenty of clearance on the steering. I've still got room to play, to move the motor around a little bit to get it perfectly parallel to the frame, and to move it forwards or backwards a bit if needed.





                    Last edited by daniel_buck; 04-24-15, 06:55 PM.
                    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                    • Almost had the crossmember finished, when it started raining, lol! I just need to make an angled bracket on the crossmember that lines up with the mount hole on the transfer case.

                      It sits 2" lower than the frame, and is the lowest part of the jeep between the axles now (it's even with lowest part of the transfer case)





                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                      www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                      • the sun came out, and dried up the driveway and the willys, so I got back at it! I'm pleased with the crossmember. I actually have the transfer case bolted to the crossmember as well, but that was after I took the photos, and I'm waiting on some thick rubber isolators to complete that.

                        If my measurements are correct, I'm about 3" higher up than the factory crossmember. :smokin:

                        Crossmember has paint on it, drying in the garage tonight.






                        [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                        www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                        • Here's a shot of my transfer case mount. It's a 1/2" bolt with thick rubber on either side of the transfer case, similar to the factory setup. I think this will work??

                          and some shots of the clutch cable, trans mount and frame mount.





                          [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                          www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                          • Nice progress Daniel. Clean work. It looks solid to me.
                            [COLOR=#ff8c00]MYJEEP(crawls)ROCKS(again).com

                            I have finally stopped drinking for good.
                            Now I drink for evil..... :devil:
                            [/COLOR]

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                            • So, I got around to figuring out a way to mount the battery somewhere. The best location in the engine bay puts the battery up on it's side. According to Optima's website, the yellow top batteries can be mounted at any angle, even upside down.

                              But.... it's still a lead acid battery.... with the vibrations of the diesel motor, is this going to be ok on it's side? I'm going to put a nice soft rubber 3/4" thick mat under the battery, to dampen the vibrations.
                              [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
                              www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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                              • AGM batteries have gel electrolytes contained in a spiral wound glass mat. On top of that they are sealed. If you can get it to leak due to vibrations in any position, you have bigger issues to work out than mounting position. A rubber mat is a good idea though.
                                God forgives, rocks don't
                                -sons of thunder

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