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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

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  • The traction bar, is that to help with hopping? Do you run them on both sides, or just one side?
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
    www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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    • It is to control spring wrap that is common when using soft leaf spring with spring over axle. Hopping is a symptom of wrap, it also can lead to the springs wearing out faster as they are bent into an s shape and if it really wraps bad you can break the drive shaft u-joint when the pinion rotates up. I wasn't hopping too often but i was getting a little hop and i did break a u-joint when i was beating on it in two wheel drive. I think it broke due to wrap.

      Just one side can control the rotation of the axle.
      Last edited by jonah; 12-09-12, 09:01 PM.

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      • Just finished the headers, dual exhaust with "H" pipe, 24" glasspacks turned down before the axle. I can not believe the difference in throttle response. I always though this motor just wound up slowly but with this exhaust it is 1000% faster (+/- 3% margin of error). The old exhaust was small, but I didn't think it was choking it that much. I haven't even finished dialing in the fuel injection yet, I can't wait to drive it. Just have to reinstall drive shaft, oil up the rear axle, go over all the bolts one last time and give him a spin.

        It also sounds awesome even if a bit louder.

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        • nice! :-)
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
          www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com

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          • Great work, Jonah. I love the old iron and that thing just keeps getting better.

            FWIW, an old trick for locating the cross pipe in the H pipe is to fully set up the exhaust without the cross pipe, spray paint the exhaust tubes in the where you can actually fit it, and run the motor. The place where the spray paint gets fried first or worst is where there is the most turbulence, and therefor the best place for the cross pipe to balance the system.
            holes = cowbell

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            • any progress? Louder is better I wanna see a vid of the engine running...

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              • Hey David, how are things out your way? We still have to fling some arrows one of these days. I have heard of that method of painting the pipes, however in this case there was about a six inch window to get the "h" pipe in, so that is where it went. I almost built it without the "h" to see what it was like then add it later to compare, but I figured I had better just get it done.

                Progress, sort of. I finished everything - cooling fans, catch can, seats, harnesses, headers, exhaust, injection, truss and traction bar. Everything is working great until I break 3800 rpm for more than a few seconds (and since I always like to drive above 3800 rpm it is a problem). I drove around town and about 40 freeway miles with no problem at the bottom end but if I open it up the fuel injection is getting starved for fuel at higher revs and goes really lean. I stuck a clear fuel filter in before the pump and can see that is sucking a lot of air. I think it is my pick up strainer in my tank that is designed for a regular carb fuel delivery set up is letting me down. Or the pump may be starting to fail. The fuel pressure looks pretty steady but it does flicker a bit at high rpm (on the small cheapo gauge I have inline). If I crank up the fuel map on the ecu it can take the revs up to about 4500 but then runs at 10 to 1 air/fuel in the low end. This motor used to rev over 5000 no problem on the old system.
                Last edited by jonah; 12-18-12, 04:37 PM.

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                • any progress with the fuel injection?

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                  • Just thinking and talking, no doing....

                    Not too much free time the past few days. But having a great holiday! The plan is to add the crank trigger and CPS plug it in and go. I need to make the trigger wheel and a bracket for the CPS but I won't be doing anything on it until the 1st. I have to wait for my crank position sensor to come in anyway, which might take a while since I have no idea if the place is open this week, so I am pretty much stuck at the moment.

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                    • I think I finally got the fuel injection beat into submission. Had to end up going to a CPS but was getting a bad signal at first. Then modified my trigger wheel (notches cut in the front crank pulley, with some rod welded on to give it enough mass to trigger the CPS) and got a good signal and the holley projection dialed right in. Everything is kind of rigged right now so tomorrow I will install the real crank trigger Tom made for me on his handy lathe and mill. Make a good bracket for the CPS then solder and wrap all the electric.

                      Picture of my test trigger wheel:


                      which gave me a good looking 12v square wave to run the ECU:


                      Hopefully it all keeps working because I am tired of working on this system.

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                      • WOW you are having to do some interesting things to get that system to work. But looks like you have handled hombre...
                        [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                        [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                        http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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                        • Somebody has some fancy equipment. As long as you get the right amount of pulses and it's made to withstand the rigors of your driving style , you should be good to go

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                          • Yeah, it is getting a bit more complicated than I had hoped. The old analog box ran fine off the HEI tach signal but the new digital box didn't like it. When I put the oscilloscope on the tach signal I could see why, it is a crazy, noisy signal. But I think the real issue was the projection is programmed to read a V8 so it expects 4 pulses per crank revolution but the V6 only gave three, so it would think that the motor was only running at 3750 when it was really at 5000 and I couldn't tune in enough fuel at the top end. So in moving to a crank position sensor I just put a 4 pulse trigger wheel on crank and a I am good to go. I have made a better looking trigger wheel that will tuck behind the pulleys and a better bracket for the CPS. The CPS is one from Megasquirt and seems like a nice little hall sensor. I originally bought a TJ CPS but it only likes 5 volts and I needed 12.

                            I am seriously thinking about picking up an oscilloscope, it is a cool little tool.

                            Anyway, I got it running right. Put the closed loop system in and it was working nice. Should make going to the mountains better as the closed loop will automatically adjust the air/fuel mixture when the altitude changes.

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                            • Jonah... where are pics of the new rack? also... I found these.. you need to buy them today! They match Opie





                              http://www.etsy.com/listing/59258777...rch_query=blue

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                              • not finished yet. I need a bit more steel and haven't had time to get down to IMS. The tire is up but I am still working on the jerry can holders.

                                Those goggles are sweet!

                                ETA on yours? You going to TDS?

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