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Howdy, time for a new round of updates. The 4.8 LR4 has been running great, never so much as a hiccup. But I did notice that my intake air temps were getting pretty hot, over 160 while crawling on the 101. Probably because my intake was right in line with the radiator fan:
So I moved it back:
And I bought a Woodward Fab bead roller, similar to the Harbor Freight version but with a thicker plate and $50 cheaper. It needs the same mods to work well including reinforcement, and an electric motor:
I tried to find a gear motor that wasn't too expensive but I failed, so I rigged up a Harbor Freight low speed drill. Max rpm is 550, with a 20:1 gear reduction with my LS flex plate and starter gear motor I can get it running pretty slow, around 4 rpm if I turn the drill down. To run it I lock the trigger on the drill and use a foot pedal to start it up. Here is my first attempt at rolling some panels:
Not perfect, but not too bad for a first run. I haven't decided if I like this version of my air box. I might change it. If I finish this version it will have a gasket along the edge to seal against the hood and will draw air from the outside through a hole in the side of the hood. I am also going to insulate the airbox and the intake tubing to keep it cool and making maximum HP, oh yeah!
Next I started to get my OBA operational. My york went with the Buick V6, the A/C compressor that came on the LR4 was a double headed pump that was near impossible to separate the crankcase from the head so I converted to a Sanden. Of course the brackets were different so I had to make some, took some time to make sure it lined up just right:
Upper mount
Lower mount
All painted up
And here comes the compressor
This compressor was nice to tap into:
I pulled the compressor apart and plugged the hole between the head and the crankcase (technically wobble plate case would be more accurate). Then I filled the crankcase with EP grease and closed it up. I ran it for 10 minutes or so today and no grease came out and it didn't get too hot. We will see how it goes. I don't think it quite pumps as fast as the York, but it isn't too far off. Anyway, I needed the OBA to work because I got a deal on an ARB for a Dana 44, which means I have to make a Dana 44 for Opy. Got three housings, 1 waggy, 1 chevy, 1 ford HP:
The ford housing was best, .5" wall tubes and High Pinion but it is drivers drop and I need passenger drop. So I decided to re-tube it. Took a donor long side tube from the Chevy (also .5" wall tube) I cut the center to save the whole tube (it was pretty rusted inside anyway):
Took out the short tube from the Ford pumpkin. I torched out the plug welds then used a pipe and a 10 lb hammer to get the tube out. It was some work, took me two friends, 12 beers and 4 hours to get it done but I think I could cut my time in half now. I tried messing with drills and die grinders to clean up the holes but if I did it again I would just burn away plenty with the torch and knock it out. Unfortunately I didn't figure this out until the last two plug welds. I need to clean up the long tube and press it into the Ford pumpkin still. I also have to cut the passenger side tube down and install the inner c.
More to come...
So I moved it back:
And I bought a Woodward Fab bead roller, similar to the Harbor Freight version but with a thicker plate and $50 cheaper. It needs the same mods to work well including reinforcement, and an electric motor:
I tried to find a gear motor that wasn't too expensive but I failed, so I rigged up a Harbor Freight low speed drill. Max rpm is 550, with a 20:1 gear reduction with my LS flex plate and starter gear motor I can get it running pretty slow, around 4 rpm if I turn the drill down. To run it I lock the trigger on the drill and use a foot pedal to start it up. Here is my first attempt at rolling some panels:
Not perfect, but not too bad for a first run. I haven't decided if I like this version of my air box. I might change it. If I finish this version it will have a gasket along the edge to seal against the hood and will draw air from the outside through a hole in the side of the hood. I am also going to insulate the airbox and the intake tubing to keep it cool and making maximum HP, oh yeah!
Next I started to get my OBA operational. My york went with the Buick V6, the A/C compressor that came on the LR4 was a double headed pump that was near impossible to separate the crankcase from the head so I converted to a Sanden. Of course the brackets were different so I had to make some, took some time to make sure it lined up just right:
Upper mount
Lower mount
All painted up
And here comes the compressor
This compressor was nice to tap into:
I pulled the compressor apart and plugged the hole between the head and the crankcase (technically wobble plate case would be more accurate). Then I filled the crankcase with EP grease and closed it up. I ran it for 10 minutes or so today and no grease came out and it didn't get too hot. We will see how it goes. I don't think it quite pumps as fast as the York, but it isn't too far off. Anyway, I needed the OBA to work because I got a deal on an ARB for a Dana 44, which means I have to make a Dana 44 for Opy. Got three housings, 1 waggy, 1 chevy, 1 ford HP:
The ford housing was best, .5" wall tubes and High Pinion but it is drivers drop and I need passenger drop. So I decided to re-tube it. Took a donor long side tube from the Chevy (also .5" wall tube) I cut the center to save the whole tube (it was pretty rusted inside anyway):
Took out the short tube from the Ford pumpkin. I torched out the plug welds then used a pipe and a 10 lb hammer to get the tube out. It was some work, took me two friends, 12 beers and 4 hours to get it done but I think I could cut my time in half now. I tried messing with drills and die grinders to clean up the holes but if I did it again I would just burn away plenty with the torch and knock it out. Unfortunately I didn't figure this out until the last two plug welds. I need to clean up the long tube and press it into the Ford pumpkin still. I also have to cut the passenger side tube down and install the inner c.
More to come...
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