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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

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  • Jonah just take the time to calibrate the gauges, bimetallic gauges are very sensitive to voltage, so tweeking the voltage a bit makes them read high, low or correct. Just a slight adjustment makes quite a difference in how they read.

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    • Don't feel too stupid. I didn't think of it either. Luckily I came across some info before I got to wiring. Mine was converted to 12 before I bought it, so I am not sure of the state of things under there. It was a total rats nest, I just cut everything out. Not a fuse or regulator to be found in the whole system. Hopefully none of the gauges are toast. I have to test them still.

      aw12345, thanks for the tip I hadn't thought about that. But now I am glad the regulator is adjustable. It is set up at 5.5 right now, I think that is standard for the old fords.

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      • 12 volt gauges used to be happy somewhere around 9,5 to 10 volts. Just compare some gauge readings to manual gauges and go from there.

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        • Good to know. My oil pressure is mechanical now so I just need to get temp and fuel worked out. I think I am going to change out the ammeter for a voltmeter.

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          • Good call on the volt meter. You don't need a bunch of current running through the dash.
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            • Unless it's an inductive amp meter is a bit more involved to wire in but a better indicator of charging

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              • Ok, I need some schoolin', I don't know about an inductive amp meter.

                Any opinions on the best way to hook up a two battery system?

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                • Inductive amp meters clamp around the cable insulation without cutting it. In your case it would be the alternator output, positive or negative battery cable. Putting it simply, it detects the flow and the meter reads it. The one I have plugs into my volt meter. I can flow up to 400 amps through it and my meter reads it without the current going through the meter. Great tool but expensive. I didn't know they made them for auto gauges but, if I wanted an amp gauge in my vehicle that would be the way to go.

                  I hook my dual battery's in parallel with no isolator. I was told that the optima battery's can be laid on their side and stacked. If you haven't bought battery cables, I make my own using welding cable and loop ends crimped on. Its real easy to work with, you cut it to fit and its oil and heat resistant.
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                  • Yeah, I have seen the inductive types for electricians now that you mention it. I did a quick search for an automotive type but didn't find anything.

                    I am set up for one battery now. But I got a good deal on two optimas so I am trying to figure it out, debating on isolator or not and location. Do you run a switch between them? I am thinking of mounting them under the passenger seat but I am a bit nervous about it as I did has a battery blow on me once, that was scary. The top flew about 150 feet, the rest was shrapnel, acid everywhere. But I don't think I can fit two under the hood.

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                    • I left mine in parallel with no switch. I keep a close eye on my battery's so im not worried about on draining the other. My winch has a big motor and 150 foot of cable. On a couple of occasions, Ive used almost all of it.

                      Ive had 3 battery's blow up in my time. All were weak battery's and all were while starting the vehicle, none were mine. 30 years of doing body electrical in a shop. Average of one every ten years is still too much.
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                      • Yeah, the one that went on me was a girlfriend's old car, really bad battery. I was jumping it for her and as soon as I hit the starter switch it blew. Now I always stand back when jumping.

                        Maybe I can squeeze them under the hood, I would just like to get the weight lower and back further. Maybe I can build a couple boxes in the floor to contain them.

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                        • There are 3 easy ways of hooking batteries together.
                          One is a marine battery switch, second is a continues duty solenoid, you can get those at any decent RV store.
                          Last is a diode based battery isolator is the easiest to hook up and you can get it also at an RV store. I would prefer the solenoid they are cheap, easy to wire and quite reliable.

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                          • aw12345, thanks for the info on battery hook up and thanks for the seat belts!

                            I am finally moved over to my new office/shop. It hopefully I can be organized in another week or so and start working again.

                            I picked up a towbar and got it hooked up. My friend Steve towed the jeep from Lakewood to HB with his truck. Pulled nice and straight, no surprises thank goodness.

                            Anyway, here it sits.

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                            • That roll cage looks vaguely familiar
                              And that shop is awsome. Man I could set that place up nice! Once you're back at it let me know if you need anything.
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                              • Yeah! That cage fit in perfectly, I couldn't believe it. I just picked up a little tube yesterday to tie the front to the back.

                                The shop is nice, too bad it is mostly full of housewares and office stuff. But once I get organized I will have a nice little area to work on the Jeep, so I am happy. It has a real roof even - no more tent!!

                                Oh yeah, what plasma do you have? My torches are empty and I am debating on refilling them or putting that cash towards a cutter. I know in the long run a cutter would probably be better.

                                I need to build a plate for my winch, how thick should that material be? It will sit on top of the frame rails, pretty basic set up. I was thinking 1/4 inch...

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