hey whats wrong with a shiny jeep? the wheels would look good shined up. i ve seen some wheels like that where guys have put the bead lock ring on em and it made it looke even meaner. just a thought. looks really good.
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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.
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Originally posted by 6spdYJ View PostI had slotted mags on my Nova in high school. They will polish up like mirrors. Depending on the severity of oxidation, you might break them down with rubbing compound first. That Mother's mag polish works wonders, but by itself it takes a lot of work. Please tell me you are using the after shot as your desktop wallpaper. It's that good.[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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Originally posted by jonah View PostWell, everyone should have one part on their jeep that isn't hack!![CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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Hey Jonah,do you have 5 of those wheels?If not I have a deal for you,I have one (long story)in my back yard that really needs a loving home.Oh yeah it's a 15x8 with 5 on 5-1/2Dennis and Tammy
Its as much fun getting dirty as it is being dirty in a Jeep!
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I actually took it around the block yesterday. I might drive it around today some. I still need to fix the leak on my rear diff cover and fill it up, so I didn't want to drive it far because I know the oil level is a little low in that diff.
Other than that I have a little wiring under the dash, skids and armor. I am trying to decide if I should stick with the round tail lights or upgrade to the savvy tail lights. I kind of like the old school look of the rounds, but those savvy lights are sweet.
I am also buying some high steer knuckles today, to get a better steering solution than I have now (which is don't turn left and hit a bump at the same time). Oh I also realized my pitman arm is off, I am running out of box before hitting the right turn lock.
I am sure other things will pop up!
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Originally posted by rat patrol View PostI have to go to Phoenix on Tuesday. If invertd is willing to meet me up on the 10 in Coachella somewhere I'll pick up the back seat and you can come get it from my place.holes = cowbell
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no pic update.
Went to the pick a part and got an emergency brake system from an XJ. Worked out perfect. The cables fit right in the Model 20 drums. welded up a mounting bracket on the seat mount bars for the handle and good to go, or stop I suppose. Anyway, I can lock 'em up.
Decided to drive it home for the first time. All smiles for the first two miles...then she dies.
Poke around, and I don't have spark. While pulling a plug wire to check for spark, yanked the end off the brand new wires, cheap:censor:. Sat for a few, looked again and noticed a bulge in the wire that goes from the coil into the side of the distributor (feeder for the points). Feels like it is broken inside the insulation. Wiggled it a bit and she started back up. Died one more time before making it home.
Happy to say that I got it up to 45mph and it felt pretty good. I thought for sure my drive shaft was going to vibrate by that speed. Brakes are still too biased to the rear. Clutch slave needs to be adjusted and maybe bled again, once warmed up it got a little tough to get into gear while at a stop. Needs to be tuned, idle way to high once warmed up.
Some gauges were working. Speedo reads accurate to my android speedometer app, lucky break. Temp gauge never broke 120. I am pretty sure it was up to operating temp, something is wrong there. Oil pressure was sitting at 40 psi at idle. And I had a steady 14 volts. Fuel gauge, who knows, I need to fill up the tank and see.
Overall I am very happy, nothing has fallen off yet and no explosions!!
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GP4play, yeah, not too bad. It is to be expected.
Sebastian, Thanks! I hope those sliders work well for you.
Ok, this motor might be worse than I thought. It is really blowing oil out of the dipstick tube. I don't know how long it will last. A rebuild might have to happen sooner than I had hoped. Anyone got a running chevy or buick V6 they want to get rid of?
Brakes really need to be adjusted. When I hit them hard the backs lock up quick.
Put a new starter on yesterday. Sounds horrible, but works. I first shimmed it to spec and it was really bad. Added a couple of shims and it got better. Maxed out the shims and it got better, but still pretty noisy. I might go exchange it and try a different one. I do have some burrs on the flywheel ring gear, so maybe it will just be noisy.
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Jonah
In response to your brake issues, you might try reversing your master cylinders. Generally, when you have two seperate master cylinders, the smaller should be used for the front brakes. You do this because the smaller the master cylinder bore the more leverage. Visualize that the two cylinders with the same stroke, one pushes less fluid with the same force, it has more leverage. This might help your brake bias issue. Also you might want to consider a brake bias adjuster installed on your rear brake line. This will allow you to adjust out additional rear leverage. Wilwood makes them and they are relatively inexpensive.
I raced roadrace cars for many years and this is the typical way we set up our braking systems.
Mike
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Hey Mike, thanks for the input. I have been thinking about this. I have it backwards. 1" on the fronts and 7/8" on the rear. I also have a 3/4" on the shelf. My pedal is pretty hard with a short throw right now. Do you think I would be better going:
7/8" Front and 1" Rear?
3/4" Front and 7/8" Rear?
Or some other combo.
Oh, I have disks on front and drums on rear if that helps.
I think the smaller master gives you softer pedal with longer throw.
Thanks again!
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I would try the two smaller bores. Also, you might need a bigger reservoir for the front master cylinder, due to the fact that disc calipers use more fluid. Some people confuse reservoir size with bore size, two different issues. The smaller the bore the more leverage.
Mike
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