Originally posted by jonah
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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.
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Thanks, I think it will look good.
Kurt, Thanks - that will be awesome. I don't think I will be ready this weekend. But I could be ready to go the following. Of course I can push it back some if it makes life easier. Let me know if there is anything I can do or get to prepare the space.
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Originally posted by jonah View PostThanks, I think it will look good.
Kurt, Thanks - that will be awesome. I don't think I will be ready this weekend. But I could be ready to go the following. Of course I can push it back some if it makes life easier. Let me know if there is anything I can do or get to prepare the space.[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
[/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]
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Yeah, thanks for the tip. I thought I was getting the cheap shit. I told the guy that is what I wanted. This stuff was the single stage with 25 color choices and ran about 130 a gallon (some colors were cheaper by 15) including hardener. I hope the single stage holds up. I am sure base and clear coat is better but we will see. There were a couple of mail order options that were a little cheaper, but with mixed reviews. Better to go local and name brand I think.
Can't wait to get it on, but there is still some work to do before then.
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Boom goes the dynamite! The Jeep is painted thanks to Rat Patrol's space and skill. It came out really nice, better than I had hoped for. Especially considering the 56 year old sheet metal and my newbie body working skills. I really like the color and I can't wait to put it together.
In primer.
Workin'
Ooooh, glossy.
Tub done.
Heading home!
Thanks again Kurt!
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Thanks guys! Yes, huge thanks to Kurt. It was a lot of work, starting with he pickup Friday night, a long day Saturday, and finished up this morning. He definitely put in some hours. The Sherwin Williams finish1 paint system went on nice. It is single stage paint so you shoot two coats and you are done, no clear coat needed. It has a nice amount of metallic flake and a nice gloss.
The sliders are going to be black, if I keep them. I do like how these look, but I have some savvy sliders I might use. The only problem with the savvy sliders are that I would need to modify them quite a bit to make them work on my 3b. But they would give me more clearance. I can't decide.
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After building the frame, stretching the body, piecing a drivetrain together, wiring and painting... You're considering sliders to require "quite a bit of work"??? You're killing me! Can't wait to see it all together. Great work. You and all the guys who have helped are an inspiration. This country needs more people like you all.God forgives, rocks don't
-sons of thunder
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Well, when you put it that way...it does sound a bit funny. The big thing is the savvy parts are aluminum, and I don't have aluminum welding. But the aluminum sliders do finish out the corners nicely so I will probably go for it and see if savvy can weld the seams for me.
Hope to have the raptor liner sprayed in the tub by the end of the week. Then I can really start putting it together.
Then:
Fix Carb (accelerator pump not working)
Install bump stops
Need to add a leaf or something on the front springs
Finish up electrical
Drive on some rocks!
And I couldn't agree more about the people I have met here on MJR, the best.
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Jonah, What I've found works well for the 2 1/2" springs is to make a jig that can seat a 4-ton bottle jack and has a box at the top 2 3/4" wide and 8" or so long. Make a rounded cap to fit over the end of the bottle jack using a half-round piece of tube with the pocket of 1" black pipe. Pretty much a baby press. (don't press any babies) This is what I used to add a little cold arch to stock YJ springs to help my hammered Rancho's. YJ springs had many lengths, so if you get a set for cheap or free, you can find one to suit the length you need and just put a slight tweak or two on it to get your rig to the height you want. Being 1/4" thick, they won't make it ride like a buckboard. Also, the YJ springs have the galvanized shims, and rolled ends. Taper these for an even better behaved spring. Of course, Deaver Spring would be much better, but this is near free. There is a good tutorial by Eaton Spring called leaf spring 101.God forgives, rocks don't
-sons of thunder
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Hmmm, I never thought of a home brew re-arch. I might have to give that a try. I am going to try to pick up an extra set to mess around with. My main problem is the fronts are dead flat now, one might be slightly inverted, and I don't even have the sheet metal on the front yet. I need it to come up 1-2 inches.
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