CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

[Zoobi]

I had a friend at a radiator shop coat the inside and check it when he was done. I don't know what he used. I had him clean it with a solvent first, I didn't want to take the chance of a coating not sticking properly because of the gas I put in it.

Scott

[jonah]

Yeah, I think coating it is a good idea. I will have to look into that.

Thanks!

Jonah

[6spdYJ]

You built that whole thing faster than I can wash mine!!! Congratulations.

[jonah]

Thanks! It is coming along pretty well. Of course here at the end it is easy to get bogged down it the final details.

Most recent development, can not turn left to lock. My half high steer doesn't work. The drag link was flipped to the top and I thought it would clear the springs, but it binds at about 2/3s to lock on left turns (I am sure flexing while turning left would break something). So I bought some flat top knuckles, hopefully they get here soon and then I have to redo all the steering stuff.

So it goes...

[Zoobi]

If you cant turn left to lock. Recheck your links then look at your pitman arm. Start by centering your box (turn lock to lock), count then center. Your pitman arm should be parallel to your frame. Ive seen this a number of times.

If you look at the big hole in your pitman arm, you see splines. Look closer and you see four index splines across from each other. They look like thick spines. Lay a straight edge from the center of the tie rod hole across the center of the large hole. The index splines are slightly to one side or the other. There are two configurations. If you have the wrong indexing the arm still fits the box but its off to one side a little.
Normally people don't notice because you don't make sharp left turns on the street.

I discovered this on my CJ7. It took over a month before I figured out what it was and the guy at the shop I got the pitman arm from said the problem was I had bent steering.
Too bad I had given my stock arm to someone. I got a friend to bring his Jeep over to compare and swap parts.

Scott

[jonah]

Thanks for the good info Zoobi. I have heard of that happening. But in my case it is a draglink interference problem due to my SOA conversion. The draglink is flipped to the top of the Dana 30 steering arm and has an inch of clearance when straight (ok, maybe a bit less than an inch). But because of the caster the steering arm gets lower in relation to the springs as it turns. When turning left it gets close the the passenger side spring and the draglink comes down and hits the spring. It was so close to working...

But, my high steer parts are on the way!!

No jeepin today...sad. At least my new tires look good!


and yes the brand new gasket in my Model 20 is already leaking if you didn't notice.:thumbs_do

[metalenough]

Dig the build. You will have a sweet little flatty when your all done.

[GP4Play]

and yes the brand new gasket in my Model 20 is already leaking if you didn't notice.:thumbs_do

LOL, the AMC 20 seems to always leak.How's it going and did you get that steering right?

[jonah]

Thanks metalenough! I can't wait to get it out on the trails.

Next time that 20 is getting 2 tubes of RTV. Anyway, no work on the jeep the past couple of weeks, sold the house and now I am working on moving. The good news is I got a little space to work on it. I thought I might have to shelve it for a while since I can't work on it where I am living. So progress should commence after the 4th.

The steering working better, I straightened the pitman arm. Now the drag link just touches the spring at lock. Of course if I am at lock and bottom out it might bend, I have to test. I have some high steer knuckles but they are too high. So I am out of options at the moment. I was looking at some TJ steering components at the Genright swap meet Saturday. I noticed that they have small offset bends in linkage. If I put a .75 inch offset in the end it would solve everything, I just always thought bends in steering was bad.

I did score a roll bar (thank rat patrol!) and a front loop (just have to hook them together) and a spare tire, trying to find a rim now. :thumbs_up

[metalenough]

My yj is s.o.a. and just like yours the drag link just touches the spring at lock even compressed all the way drag link just barly touches. you shouldnt have any problems but i myself like the idea of a high steer, mine is getting one when the new axles go in.

[jonah]

Does your drag link go over or under the spring? Mine is over, the TRE was flipped to the top of the steering arm and top of the pitman arm. I bought some real high steer knuckles, but they would put the drag link into the frame, too high.

I am hoping my current set up will work.

What springs are you using? I am using stock now and they are dead flat already. I think I might need some boost when I add the cage, winch and all the other weight.

[jonah]

No worky on jeepy lately, but I have been piling up some parts.

Bought a little voltage reducer on ebay for the gauges. Once that is in I will be done wiring. Except that I got two yellow tops, now I have to figure out how to fit and wire those things.

And I got the rollbar from rat patrol home, many thanks. Much to my amazement it fits length and width perfectly! Just have to bolt it in and weld in the front hoop.

Today I scored a superwinch EPi9 off craigslist. Brand new in box, cool.

Man I can't wait to get back to work on this thing, one more week.

[Zoobi]

What is the purpose of the voltage reducer (beside reducing voltage)? Ive never heard of someone running one. My only thought is it's a regulator to keep the voltage stable at the gauges for more accuracy. Also where is it installed in the circuit?

[jonah]

Actually it is really called a regulator, I mistakenly called it a reducer, although it does reduce the voltage.

The early jeeps were 6 volt systems so all of the original gauges in my jeep need 6 volt. However, even once they changed to 12 volt the fuel and temp remained 6 volt up through CJ-7s. The later CJs had a built in regulator on the back of the speedometer.

The one I bought is all electronic and is adjustable from 1.25-11 volts. It has to be installed on the feed between the fuse box and the guages, if the gauges get a full 12 they can fry. Hopefully it will work well. You can see it here if you are interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moder...item3f00bcc1cf

[Zoobi]

Now I feel stupid.
Didn't think of you running six volt gauges. What makes it better is I helped one of my friends with his old vw install one a little while back.