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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

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  • #61
    Don't sell it short, it is that thingy with TWO holes in the middle!

    I know the problem now, I had beer while disassembly and a martini before reassembly - now it all makes sense.

    I did get it together, the thing that was driving me crazy is the rebuild kit covers every version of this carb made (3 or 4 I think). So at the end there is a big ol' pile of gaskets, o-rings, springs and I look at it and think, "what are the odds that one of these was supposed to go into my carb?"

    Hopefully in the next couple of months I will be able to fire it up...

    I have been reading up on injecting this motor. It becomes a little more work because it is odd fire. But many have worked out solutions using different TBI systems and crank position sensors. But I was planning on running the carb until it leaves me hanging on some hill, we will see.

    Rainy day, might swap the front output on my NP205 today, putting a 32 spline version in because the 30 spline version is not hardcore enough for me, ha ha. Really I just wanted to use the same yokes and joints front and rear.

    I am hoping my rebuild kit for the SM465 comes in today. I was poking around and the rear output bearing was wasted. Everything else looked good (makes me wonder why the rear one went), but I decided to do a full rebuild anyway. New bearings, synchros, shift forks and gaskets. Should be fun.

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    • #62
      465 is a good trans, but not the easiest to rebuild

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      • #63
        The FedEx man just showed up with my 465 parts! Guess I have something to work on now.

        aw12345, do you have anything specific to look out for? I already built a tool for pulling the bearings. I haven't really looked at disassembling the shift tower yet. I know a press is probably going to be necessary for removing some of the gears, in the past I have just used a bearing splitter/puller for the job, but I don't know if it will work in this instance. I downloaded a manual, but I need to read it through before I start.

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        • #64
          The bearings are a little tricky to pull of, other than that the gears are not pressed on but the sleeves they run on are. Be careful while changing those they crack fairly easy. To pull the shift cover off put it halfway in reverse

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          • #65
            Well, I started rebuilding the 465. Everything was going fine, except the mainshaft was toast and it took the input shaft with it. Got the new parts right away from Anaheim Gear, cool place. Anyway, got down to the sleeves on main shaft and can not get them off. I built a plate to use with my big bearing puller, but I couldn't budge that thing. Anyone have a press I can use? I think I should probably just buy one, it will probably come in handy for other things. Got to wait til Monday before I can work on it again anyway, so a couple of days to figure it out.

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            • #66
              Weld a couple of beads on them length wise and see of you can pull them off. Turn up the fire on the welder.
              That way they should come of fairly easy.

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              • #67
                If you have more time than money, make your own press.
                holes = cowbell

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                • #68
                  Yeah, I was looking at my old frame thinking I could put together my own. I guess I would just need a bottle jack. Maybe I will go for it.

                  I was trying to save the bushing sleeves since they were in decent shape, but I guess I should probably replace them anyway. A bit of heat would probably help. I was just thinking maybe I should just weld a couple of nuts to the sleeve and use my puller.

                  Man I can't wait to get back to it!

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                  • #69
                    So what went bad on both shafts? the tip of the output shaft got damaged where the rollers run on it?

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                    • #70
                      It looked like the rear output bearing went (the shaft could move up and down a solid 1/8 inch), so I think the main shaft was wobbling and the rollers between the main and input shafts wore a groove in both shafts. The strange thing was that the front input and both counter shaft bearings were perfectly tight. Oh well, that is what I get for not pulling the top before buying. All said and done, rebuild kit, both reverse gears, input shaft, main shaft and shifter forks - at least I am getting my granny gear!

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                      • #71
                        Yeah, you could be wasting money on a Prius... you're not, right?
                        holes = cowbell

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                        • #72
                          No, I am waiting for a superior battery technology to be invented before committing to an electric (even partially) vehicle.

                          I do have an electric lawn mower (battery powered), and it is ok, but the power to weight to price ratio in not too good. I do miss my old Toro sometimes.

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                          • #73
                            That was a pain

                            Man getting those damn bushings off was a pain. Ended up welding some all thread on them and using a puller and a torch.

                            So I decided to whip up a press since my old frame was sitting there looking like half a press anyway. And here she is:



                            The welds are all ugly, it is a bit crooked, not totally rigid, but it works!!

                            If it holds together maybe I will give it a paint job.

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                            • #74
                              You stole my bungy cord idea! Nevermind you can take the credit, since you actually did it first... You sure you're not from Arkansas? Seriously though, I love it; almost elegant in it's re-usage of old junk. Remember, before there were these green poseurs, there were rednecks. Don't stop now, you're one step from redneck glory! I bet if you tied in the top a little better it could be a lot more rigid.
                              Last edited by inVERt'D; 02-16-10, 08:03 PM.
                              holes = cowbell

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                              • #75
                                Ha ha, I am actually a Michigander. We have our fair share, maybe not as hard core redneck as Arkansas but still...either way the bungees work!

                                Actually the top is solid, I cut slots in the posts so that it would interlock and then welded it. The wimpy channel for the base (the two gray pieces) flexes under load. I tested it with the old SM465 mainshaft and bushings and it got them on and off again, but it was flexing a fair bit. Anyway, not bad for a bunch of junk laying around.

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