CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

[6spdYJ]

Going to undercoat? I'll try to get those pics for you when I can. I'm busier than a one-legged cat in a sandbox right now.

[jonah]

No worries on the photos, I picked up a set of rears that have a higher load rating. I am going to try running those as a first step. It might give me enough.

No undercoating, I am doing raptor spray in bedliner for the inside of the tub.

Forget cardboard, I am going bamboo next time!!

[inVERt'D]

Now that puts Gilligan's ride to shame, but I wonder how well those wicker headlights work?

[itsmy49willys]

dang that bamboo is some versatile stuff!

[jonah]

Yeah, I have a bunch of bamboo strips from bow making. I was thinking about using it as bows for the safari top I am going to make.

I see you are running 231 heads on your 225. I am just learning about the 225. What can you tell me about your motor? I am hoping to rebuild mine someday. Or maybe if I can find a block build one while driving this one.

[itsmy49willys]

Ya I have 231 heads on my 225 they bolt right up you just have to use pre- 77 231 heads because the water passages are different. The 225 oils differently as well The 225 block has oil passages that you have to plug because they oil through the rockers, the 231 heads oil through the pushrods. that means you have to use 231 pushrods. The old 231 block that was in the jeep decided to crack and implode. I finally collected all the parts I need to assemble the new engine. I just need to do it.

[6spdYJ]

Jonah, I asked about the undercoat in regard to your tunnel. It would be a shame to have it rust out from underneath. Any luck with the carb? It got me thinking back, several of the mid 70's Buicks had the 231 with a two barrel Rochester. The one I drove was pretty hot considering the vehicle weight. Also, we had a 79 Regal with a 231, Quadrajet and turbo. There are so many options... If the bellhousings are the same, you could stuff an injected 3800 in there from a later Buick. No matter what you wind up with, you should be proud of your results. It has been a lot of fun to see your progress. Great job!

[jonah]

Yeah, I am hoping my motor runs for a while at least. I found a really cheap 231 a couple of months ago. But I was busy moving and didn't have time, money or space to get it and I wasn't sure how much was interchangeable. I am going to start keeping an eye out.

6spd, Thanks! I've got you now, yes I am going to undercoat the bottom of the tunnel, somehow. I was just thinking last night that it would be a lot easier if I pull the drivetrain. But I really don't want to. I will have to see if I can hit all the spots from underneath. I haven't messed with the carb yet. It is the two barrel Rochester. Something is wrong with the accelerator pump. The check ball keeps popping out. I probably missed something when I rebuilt it. Just need to pull it apart sometime. It runs ok, as long as you don't hit the gas too quick. I have been thinking about switching to a modern FI motor, but I still kind of like the Dauntless, so I will probably keep it. Plus after talking to Snoopy about his carb set up, I think I can make something work.

Smashed thumb last night working on the jeep. It is tough to operate without using a thumb. Doesn't pay to work in the shop when you are tired.

[6spdYJ]

If you want old-school cool with modern wow, get an old Buick 215 block, and Olds 215 heads. Offset grind a Buick 300 crank and install Chevy small journal 327 rods on a set of Pinto .030 over pistons. This is an old Hot Rod Magazine recipie for an aluminum 305 which will bolt up to your bellhousing. Let's have more fun and remember that Range Rover bought the rights to this block design and used it through the 90's (maybe later). Get an injection system from one of these and tune it accordingly. Then sit back and wonder why you put so much effort and money into a one-off wierdo you can't find parts for.

[jonah]

My head is spinning.

[6spdYJ]

I didn't get my Erector Set until far later in life..

[EatonSprings]

6spdYJ - I think what was said by our tech guys may have been mis-understood. What you are describing to do is to "Diamond Point" the spring leaf end. A tappered end is one that the thickness, not the width, is thinned down. A leaf .262 thick would thin down to about .150 thick at the end.
Diamond pointing will let the spring end flex a bit easier than a constant thinkness leaf, but the tapered end allows for the best flexability.

[EatonSprings]

rearching a spring should last quite awhile this essentially what spring shops do leafsprings start out as straight flatstock that get cut to length, then arched and a center hole punched in

We spring manufacturers start out with a flat bar of raw spring steel, cut it to lenght, punch the centerbolt hole and clip holes, roll the eyes, form the ends, heat it to 1,650 degrees, form it over a pattern, cool it in special oil, re-heat it to 950, shot peen it, put it togather, ship it to the customer. Pretty much as you said.

[jonah]

Thanks for the spring info.

I tried the rears I got from Snoopy on the front, they gave about a 1/2" lift. That wasn't quite enough so I pulled the main leaf from them, cut off the eyes with a cut off wheel (diamond point style!) and added it to the original fronts I had. That picked up the front by 1.5" which is just about right.

[jonah]

Got this done.







Upol Raptor bedliner kit. 2K system that comes with one gallon of liner, a quart of hardener and a shutz gun for about $90. Went on really easily, not quite as thick as I thought it might be. That is not really a problem except I was hoping it would hide more of my bad sheet metal welding :haha: But I still have a quart of the liner left after two coats, so I will save it in case I need touch up at some point.

Now I have to wait two days before I can drop the cage in, oh it is going to be a long two days...