lil bit of tinkering

[aw12345]

yup 2x4x1/4"

[aw12345]

Pffft, it has a semblance of a 4 link underneath the rear, not to bad for 4 days of cutting, grinding and welding. Needs a whole lot of finish work but atleast I can flex the rear and start dreaming about stuffing the rear coilovers in

[inVERt'D]

That's gonna be real slick, Art. What made you decide on 4-link vs 3-link? I haven't been able to make up my mind. At a minimum, the track bar will be going bye-bye.

[aw12345]

The front is a 3 link got to have some variation lol.
A good trilink works well too, seems to me this is easier to make though

[inVERt'D]

The front is a 3 link got to have some variation lol.

Sorry, I should have specified rear.

A good trilink works well too, seems to me this is easier to make though

What is it about the 4-link that you find easier?

What I've had in mind is a 3-link wishbone with triangulated lowers--basically a fully triangulated 4-link, except the uppers converge to 1 joint, resulting in 0" of separation at the axle truss. A little while ago I was visualizing that, and it became apparent to me at that time that it would bind and otherwise act kinda funny. It occurred to me that that must be why all the 3-links I've seen have had straight lowers. Was I all wet (now that I mention it, I was in the shower...)?

I guess what I'm shooting for is this: Something that works as well on the highway (considering it's a Jeep) as it does in the rocks, and has no track bar. No likey track bar--bad fen shui.

EDIT: FWIW, I just found a wishbone 3-link with triangulated (though not a whole lot) lowers on Pirate.

[aw12345]

if the lowers have to much triangulation, then there is a pretty good change it starts binding when it articulates since the upper center cannot move sideways the axle kind of swings around it

[inVERt'D]

That's what I was picturing, thanks.

[aw12345]

Well for some hillbilly tinkering, I think does not look bad at all

[aw12345]

As I said before, for some redneck tinkering this seems to work pretty well. The rear yoke stays pretty well pointed at the transfercase yoke, next to no rear steer at full flex and best of all with the uppers set flat at ride height they still do not touch the lowers at full flex.
From the look of things I can adjust it from neutral/ very little squat to somewhere in the antisquat department. Very curious how that all works out.
Started measuring for my rear coilover mounts and will go by some steel for it tomorrow.
Since I need to do some work on rear crossmembers I might just stick a rear winch in there also looks like I can stick it under the floor without any clearance issues.

[curtis]

Art are you running the threads on the JJ the same direction. Say all RH or LH

[aw12345]

a lefry and a righty on each link. We will see if it works loose can always tackweld one of the lock nuts

[Mitch]

Art,

Looking good! Will it fit under the garage door with the new wheels and tires? Looks tight.

[aw12345]

Once the cage is in it will not fit in the garage

[Geebo]

You can fix the garage door clearance thingy!! Art just do some HILLBILLY tinkering on that...lol..Jeep is lookin bbbbaaaaddddddd my bro..

[inVERt'D]

You can fix the garage door clearance thingy!! Art just do some HILLBILLY tinkering on that.

Actually, it could be done... we just need jacks...lots and lots of jacks...

The rear yoke stays pretty well pointed at the transfercase yoke, next to no rear steer at full flex and best of all with the uppers set flat at ride height they still do not touch the lowers at full flex.
From the look of things I can adjust it from neutral/ very little squat to somewhere in the antisquat department.

Coming along very nicely, Art. You must be one of those Beverly hillbillies what with that garage and all.

So at a minimum, you're going to be somewhere close to 100% anti-squat?

Are those links painted with that hammered-look paint, cuz for a minute I thought they were galvanized