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CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

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  • Looks really nice Jonah. I like the color choice. Also glad to see Kurt was carrying a spare for the tailer.
    Check out .

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    • Well you could just rearch the springs, you arch them one leaf at the time in a press, takes a bit of patience but fairly easy to do

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      • I see you're running spring over. I got a tip from John Cappa to cut the spring eyes off of a mainspring and mount it on top of the pack. This does nothing to affect ride height or ride quality, but it does control axle wrap. He told me he was using it on 35's with a V-8 with virtually no wrap. I'll look around to see if I still have it.
        God forgives, rocks don't
        -sons of thunder

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        • Thanks Chuck. The trailer worked great for the little 3b. Driving up the ramp of the trailer is the most extreme driving I have done in this jeep!

          Art, I am thinking about giving it a try. I wonder how long the bend will hold up. Your jeep is looking bad ass by the way!

          6speed, yes, spring over. I am curious to see if I have much wrap problem. I hadn't heard about an extra leaf on top. I could see how it would work. I wonder how much it effects the droop. I was thinking about adding another main leaf with no eyes under my main leaf to give the ride height a boost. I will just have to try it out and see how it all works in real life. Do you have any photos of your leaf bending jig?

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          • Okay, I did some brain stretches and remembered exactly how he did it. Starting with the rear spring pack, he used a main spring with the eyes removed, located in the second position - just add it in between the main and second - so the second becomes the third. This will roughly add 3/8" because of the 1/4" thickness and the additional weight support will also help. Take the second spring out of the front set and place it on top of the pack. Flip the delrin pads to the bottom of this spring. Now, here's where I'd add to it... According to Eaton, a tapered spring will give a better ride. Their (grossly paraphrased) words, "A square cut spring works good on trucks; A tapered spring works on a good riding truck". I talked with their tech department, and for a 2 1/2" wide spring, they agreed that a taper of 1/2" in and 2 1/2" down the length of the spring would be a good taper on the 1/4" thickness. To be clear, Start at the square-cut end of the spring, measure in 1/2". Now measure down the length 2 1/2". Now draw a line between these two points and trim this off with an angle grinder etc... So now, When I asked, Cappa told me that clamping the pack was what he did because the pack is so flat anyhow, there isn't a lot of friction from the springs pushing really hard on each other such as on a highly arched spring. I wouldn't go crazy trying to cold-forge the springs together, but by clamping the pack with the top rebound spring, it will help a little more to control axle wrap. Also, be sure to use the galvanized shims between each leaf. These reduce friction between the leaves for the full length, just keeping friction and pressure at the tips. That will make a pack that slides smoothly and not bind - smoother flex and better ride. I'll have to see if I can find the head for my jig. When I do, I'll PM you. I'm not sure how to post the picture. I'd probably get my YJ "done" before I could figure it out.
            God forgives, rocks don't
            -sons of thunder

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            • rearching a spring should last quite awhile this essentially what spring shops do leafsprings start out as straight flatstock that get cut to length, then arched and a center hole punched in

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              • I think this will hold, it doesn't rain much here...

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                • Once the bedliner has dried it will be waterproof anyway.
                  holes = cowbell

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                  • Good point, I will put on an extra coat for safety!

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                    • I have been doing it all wrong! I've been working on mine for a year...

                      http://www.cnn.com/video/#/video/us/...eep.cnn?hpt=T2

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                      • Think those guys would take a side job? I'd be willing to pay by the hour...
                        holes = cowbell

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                        • I need a couple of those human jack stands!

                          I will now change cardboard into steel, shazam!



                          It came out slightly crooked, but I was trying to maximize room in the footwell. I am making the top removable for easy access. Trying to decide if I should paint the lid blue or black. Just about ready to shoot the bedliner!

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                          • Originally posted by jonah View Post
                            I need a couple of those human jack stands!

                            I will now change cardboard into steel, shazam!



                            It came out slightly crooked, but I was trying to maximize room in the footwell. I am making the top removable for easy access. Trying to decide if I should paint the lid blue or black. Just about ready to shoot the bedliner!
                            C'mon dude, you ain't got that heep together yet? What are doin over there? Sleepin?
                            [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                            [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                            http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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                            • Ha ha, been spending too much time trying to empty that cooler

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                              • Nice work, but you shoulda stayed with the cardboard--it won't rust like steel will. Oh well, at least the steel looks good.
                                holes = cowbell

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