Ahole Fabs Operation Turd Polish

[daniel_buck]

Walck's, Kaiser Willys, and ArmyJeepParts.net all seem to have just about any part you could ever want for these old jeeps!

And surprisingly enough, I've found that Napa Auto carries alot of little odds and ends IN STOCK. I picked up alot of parts to rebuild the distributor, and found that they have some internal engine seals in stock locally. How silly is that, rarely do I ever see an old Willys on the road yet they carry parts for them behind the counter. :-) Maybe some of those parts are common parts shared with other vehicles, I don't know.

Can't wait to see your progress

[EricMCJ5]

Eric,
Yes, I have a $700 order coming from Walcks. Not the friendliest phone persona I've ever run into but if he has the goods, who cares? Also have parts coming from Oregon and NorCal. Should start the work this weekend.

Carl can be a little gruff on the phone, but he's a nice guy, as is his son Daniel.

[RAT]

Parts just arrived from Walcks, so let the fun begin!

[RAT]

Started working on the brakes and suspension today. This Jeep is rusted together pretty good. Been a bitch getting the drums off, and I had to stop and make a puller to remove the rear hub/drum assembly. The puller works awsome.

Getting the old, cruddy stuff off

willys job006 by MJR RAT, on Flickr


willys job009 by MJR RAT, on Flickr


willys job010 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

THe grease in this hub looks like its original. Nasty nasty stuff...

willys job008 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

On the operating table.

willys job004 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

Out with old wheel cylinder, in with the new

willys job 2002 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

Rebuilt brakes, bearings and new shock. One down, three to go...

willys job 2003 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

Now on to the rear brakes

willys job 2004 by MJR RAT, on Flickr

Had to make a puller. When the hub lets go, DAMN it lets go. Make sure the lock nut is on or you'll wear the hub.

willys job 2006 by MJR RAT, on Flickr
What a mess

willys job 2007 by MJR RAT, on Flickr
I'll be keepin this thing, really works well

willys job 2008 by MJR RAT, on Flickr
Thats where I stopped for the night. Tomorrow the engine gets some luvin

[daniel_buck]

I've heard that the brake hubs and the are a b*tch to take off on these vehicles (as well as the steering wheel).

I may ask to borrow that puller you made sometime

[RAT]

I've heard that the brake hubs and the are a b*tch to take off on these vehicles (as well as the steering wheel).

I may ask to borrow that puller you made sometime

I thought the rear hub assembly would be way harder to remove seeing its a tapered shaft, and its been on there for who knows how many years. But once I rigged a puller and put some tension on it, it popped loose relatively easily. This Jeep has has some serious field repair work done on it over the years. At least I hope that it was done in combat or somewhere overseas, otherwise the person who did the work needs to be shot! I've spent more time trying to get parts off that have been installed incorrectly, removed with a hammer and chisel too many times or welded into place. I should have been done already.
The puller is available...

[freewaydan]

I told you the last time we did one, the puller and the drum when across the room. Again im soooooo glad its in you garage and not mine...

[daniel_buck]

This Jeep has has some serious field repair work done on it over the years. At least I hope that it was done in combat or somewhere overseas, otherwise the person who did the work needs to be shot!

I don't think any of the CJ models were used by the military.

[RAT]

I don't think any of the CJ models were used by the military.

I was making a funny... It looks like it's been to Hell and back. The mechanic was a "chisel" mechanic. Every nut was removed and installed with a hammer and chisel.

[Jason]

You said "nut" heh, heh,..

[RAT]

Today I finished up the brakes, wheel bearings and shocks. Also cleaned all the electrical connections on the charging and ignition circuit. Installed the new fuel pump with a purty glass bowl. PITA. Bent some new fuel lines and installed an inline fuel filter. Cleaned the canister intake filter and re-oiled. Greased the chassis (has to be 200 grease zirks under here).
So I have some serious vacuum leaks. Installed the rebuilt carb. It works way better than the original but the idle blows. Fast then slow, fast then slow. I am going to gap the new plugs to .030, set the timing to 5 DBTDC (me thinks it is too far advanced as the engine is super hard to start and back fires a little), and grab a can of carb cleaner and go hunting vacuum leaks. Then I'll install the new master cylinder and bleed the new brake system.
I'll post some more pics of the clean up later tonight. Time fer a cold :beer::beer::beer: or three...

[jonah]

Looks like you are having some good times! I've got a full service manual if you need any info, torque specs, etc.

[6spdYJ]

I don't think any of the CJ models were used by the military.

In the limited research I've done on these, some of the 45-47 CJ's had the tool cutouts. Correct me if I'm wrong - I probably am - but the M-38's had the 7 slot grille and the cutouts and were definitely military. Some judicious sanding on the sides of the hood may reveal some ghost serial numbers. I've seen a case where sanding revealed an M-38 USMC command radio jeep (RARE!) had been transferred to the Torrance school district and then adopted by it's user when they were going to scrap it. It just depends on how interested you are in researching. Thanks for keeping these treasures alive!

[daniel_buck]

If you are having trouble with the idle, give this a try, someone on the CJ2a forums suggested it to me and it worked like a charm!!

Rev the engine up pretty decently (not pegged, but rev it good, like 2000 rpm or so) slap your hand on the opening of the carb and seal it up completely, hold it there until it almost dies out, then remove your hand and try to keep the engine alive by cracking the throttle even farther open.

I did this a few times, and now it idles much better than it did when I first got it! I guess this might be the quick and easy way to "clean out" the carburetor passage ways. A bunch of vacuum is created when you seal your hand over the carb, and I guess it just forces fuel through those passages. In either case, it really worked wonders on my 2a's carburetor.


Oh I just noticed that your carb is rebuilt, well maybe that's not going to do much for you then. Is it a Carter?

When you say the idle is going fast and slow, does it surge back and forth like that quickly? Try bumping the idle up just a tad, I think these things are supposed to idle around 600-700rpm. (I put a tach on mine, and have it set at 700). Mine seems to like 700 a little better than 600. Once it's fully warm I sometimes get a little bit of an idle surge (up and down quickly) if I set it to 600 or lower.

[RAT]

Daniel,
I set the idle for 650. it doesn't surge, it idles smooth for a minute then starts to die. If I apply the choke partially it idles better but revs too high. That is usually a vacuum leak. It is also really hard to start. I think that is the timing being too far advanced. It lopes really bad during start up and back fires every once in a while. I'll be working on it again today after work. I've read that the defuser gasket at the base of the carburetor is notorious for leaking. I'll start my leak hunt there.