CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

[dirtman13]

I would be using .023 for the sheet metal. It's much easier to control burn through with the thinner wire. Also, AirGas Gold argon mix works really well with the thinner sheet metal. :2:

Heres another good resource for MIG.
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources...ur-skills/mig/

[Gary]

I cut out some rust spots on a M170 that I restored. As I welded in new metal I just made small spot welds with my wire feed until I had it all welded. At the time I remembered watching a buddy brasing up some mirror holes on an old Chevy. He would take a damp rag and wipe over the welds. The damp rag would cause the weld to suck inward instead of bulging out when left to cool naturally. I did the same on this M170, after each spot weld I'd touch it with the damp rag. I thought it made the finish body work much easier. I had no warpage and with the weld line recessed I just used a thin amount of filler along the weld line. Just an idea?

This was about 10 years ago, the M170 belongs to my neighbor. I seen the jeep the other day and you still can't see where i replaced the metal.

[bails85]

good point with the rag idea.

[jonah]

After an hour or so of testing different settings on the old AstroMig, I went for it. Not too bad, but there is room for improvement. To get a flat bead I had to run pretty hot. I got a little warp going, but nothing worse that the rest of the body, a few gallons of filler should fix it. Anyway, I picked up some .023 wire, tip and I got a new liner. I am going to try them tomorrow.

The damp rag did seem to help.

But I removed the rest of the floorboards, added another brace to my floorboard subframe and stretched the passenger side, I only fully welded one joint, the rest is tacked. A little tricky getting everything straight and level

[inVERt'D]

If it's between grinding a bead down and warping your body panels, I'd go with the grinder. I understand a lot of body guys go with short-circuit MIG (on the colder side) to prevent warpage As long as you're getting good fusion, what the heck.

You know, I like magnets for lining up the faces of flat pieces of metal--they work great. I've got a bunch of those welding magnets from HF for like $1 or $2 each.

[jonah]

Maybe I should take up quilting...





Got some .023 wire for the mig, it works better. Of course today was pretty breezy in the shop, so I was using the flux core to tack most of it. I have a bunch of welding to do, but it is together. Now I can pull the body and finish welding and painting the frame!

[GP4Play]

Its a CJ3x3b.For somone new to body fab work your a fast learner,looks great

[6spdYJ]

Remember the fabrication envy? Don't kid yourself. It looks awesome!

[bails85]

nice work on the sheet metal welding. it is an art compared to welding tubing or metal plate. much more finess and patience is needed. your build is coming together nicely. i have afeeling youre going to have a very clean setup when youre finished.

[jonah]

Thanks guys! I appreciate the comments. I am pretty happy with the way it is going. I am definitely learning a lot as I go, and getting better welding too. I am having a ton of fun building it but I can't wait for the test drive.

Learned that my sheet metal brake needs some reinforcement. When I went to bend the floor boards (a 27 inch bend) it totally flexed. Even with a handle on each end the center didn't bend all the way. The ends were at 90 degrees and the middle was probably only 75. A little hammering evened it out, but if I was going to do a bunch more big pieces I would probably figure out a fix.
But I just have a few small patches to do now.

Trying to figure out my steering. I need to have my drag link mounted above the pitman arm. I am thinking of drilling it out and using a heim. But then I hear about heim failures and think I should use a regular TRE. But I would have to reverse the taper, or get a new pitman arm with a reversed taper. Anyone using heims on steering? Any concerns? I want to be able to drive it safely on the street.

[jonah]

thanks bails, the sheet metal is tricky. It definitely takes a delicate touch. I am getting better. The drivers side came out better than the passengers side. Luckily I will get a lot more practice with the 3.2 million holes I have to patch...by then I will be ready for prime time.

[dirtman13]

Looking great jonah.

I have had no issues with my heim rod ends on my steering and I'm pretty hard on my Jeep. My current set up will have heim's as well. If you go that route make sure you include the safety washers.

[inVERt'D]

Yeah, looking good Jonah. The thing is when you're done, most people won't have a clue you did anything to it. That's part of the fun. BTW, have you thought of raising the front fenders?

[jonah]

Dirtman, Thanks! I was looking at your new set up and thinking it looks like a good way to go. I also remembered seeing your old set up for sale a while back. Do you still have it for sale?

inVERt'D, And give up my extra tall hood....never!! As far as the stretch, I hope it is not too noticeable, I actually like the stock proportions of the body but wanted a little wheel base for more stability, room for a four speed and back seat for the boys. I picked up 13 inches of wheelbase and stretched the body 10, 7 in the door and 3 behind the door.

Thanks for the words of encouragement!

[RAT]

Jonah,
I haven't looked at your build for a while but DAYammn, you been a busy beaver! The sheet metal looks real nice; you got some talent there my man. I need that brake for my floorboard. Why don't you just put it out front before ya go to sleep tonight...