CJ3b....That is what the vin tag says.

[bails85]

hell no didnt cost a dime. bingee cord action. ur not a redneck ur a wetback. i love it. great progress on the jeep. going to be bad ass.

[jonah]

Got a tiny bit done the past two weeks.

Built transmission crossmember - 1.5 x 3 x .25 tube nothing fancy.

Here is the original hole for the T-14, the SM465 is not going to fit, out comes the saw.




Might as well cut it in half while the saw is warmed up. Here is my helper, telling me what I should be doing.






I don't think I want this much stretch in the door (8 inches now), so I might stretch a bit between the door and rear wheel well.


Damn, this is a tall carb. I know my engine was mounted a little bit high to keep the drivetrain up, but I didn't think I was cutting it this close. And this is with my body half an inch higher than it should be. Might have to go with an aftermarket air cleaner, it would sit an inch lower.

[jonah]

Thanks Bails!

[dirtman13]

Looking good. Isn't it great when you get one thing done and find that you now have to change something else because of it?

[6spdYJ]

You sir, are a shining example of what happens when a child is deprived of an erector set!

[aw12345]

That is a typical Jeep thing, change 1 thing and to make it work 5 more things need modification and alteration

[jonah]

word.

Changing the drive train set off so many changes it is making my head spin...

Anyway, got back on it.

Had to redo the front end to fit the steering box, because I decided to move the front axle forward more than I originally planned. So I extended the frame, still need to weld and plate it.


Made a steering box bracket. 3/8 steel maxed out my welder, but it is stout.


Started working on body mounts and new subframe for the floor.


Made a sheet metal break for the upcoming bodywork.


The disaster area

[jonah]

Oh yeah, I did have an erector set as a kid. But it was a hand me down and was missing the electric motor....rubber band power only gets you so far.

[Guest]

You do some good work! Good job.

[dirtman13]

Nice work. It's looking great.

You have more pictures of the brake? I'm in the process of building one as well.

[jonah]

Thanks guys!

Dirtman, I will snap a few more pics and write a more detailed description.

[GP4Play]

Great job Jonah.I get as many ideas for tools from you as I do Jeep mod's,very cool.So many Jeep builds I want to see and this stretched out old flatty is at the top the list for me.

[inVERt'D]

Cool brake! I had a similar idea myself, but never got around to it.

[jonah]

Thanks! I like building the tools almost as much as the jeep...almost.

Here is a little more detail on the brake.

It is basically made up of 3 lengths 1/4 angle. The two pieces on bottom (the base and bender) are 45 inches long. The top piece that clamps down to hold the sheet metal is 38 inches (not counting the tabs for the hold down bolt). So basically I have 38 inches of capacity. The hinge is 1 inch O.D. DOM 1/4 inch wall. I also made the handle out of the same tube, using a piece of 1 inch I.D. pipe for the holder. I put holders for the handles on both sides, but I only have one handle now.

Here is the hinge, the key is to have the pivot point exactly centered with the corners of the base and bending pieces so that it doesn't bind when you start bending. I made a notch in both pieces of angle to accept the DOM (3 inches total length, two 1.5 inch pieces per hinge). After getting the notch just right, I clamped the bender to the base, put the pin in the DOM and tacked it together. After getting both sides tacked I tested it and it was binding, so undid one side and adjusted until it moved freely, then welded it up.

The two parts of the hinge are held together with 1/2 inch bolts, the hinge is not threaded they just act as pins.








The clamp needs to be set back a little (a mistake I made the first time was to mount it right to the edge leaving no room for the material being bent, mine is a little shy of an 1/8 inch. You can see the clamp spaced back here.




I made the clamp so it can work as seen here for 90 degree bends or flipped to use the flat edge for bends over 90 degrees.

Also, my neighbor suggested that I put a slight radius on the edge of the clamp. He said the sharp corner could make a weak point the metal. So I will probably do that.

The handle is attached by the 1 inch I.D. pipe with a nut welded on for a set screw. The 1 inch O.D. DOM slides right in.


I see a lot of benders have a truss on the base and clamp. If I run into any deflection while bending I may add some, but it seems pretty strong, I think twisting of the bending piece will be the first place to give. But if I use both handles I think it will eliminate that problem (if it exists).

I am also going to make a couple of "T" handles for the clamp bolts to make opening and closing easier. I thought about a fancy quick release clamping system on each end of the clamping bar, but this was simple, cheap and I didn't have to buy anything.

Legs are some 2x2 .120 wall.

I think that covers it, let me know if you have any other questions.

[jonah]

yeah, the welds are ugly - but I was working fast....