Ford 8.8 build

[Guest]

I used a ZJ proportioning valve when I did my ZJ disc brake swap.

Upon swapping in the 8.8 I found that the caliper mounting brackets are nearly identical, and the part numbers cast in were only a few off. This might be a good place to start.


On the rear perches: the 8.8 tubes are 3.25" so the 3" perches will work. The longer perches could help with axle wrap. When my leaves went south they turned into a W shape right at the perches. The extra holes would come in handy later for stretching the rear, which may help your tires stuff better.
May as well weld the tubes since the axle is out, and you are welding stuff already. 1/8 7018 worked well for me.

GL! :beer:

Thank you for your detailed post. I will go with the first perches since i am spring under.

As for the valve. Any year ok?

[2blk2drs]

I think mine was from a 96 but couldnt say for sure. Any ZJ with discs should work.

[Materdaddy]

I wasn't saying no proportioning valve, I was simply stating that you do NOT want the rear locking up first or at the "same time" to have some sort of control if you ever do lock up the tires. Like Scott clarified, you want the fronts to lock up first, but hopefully you don't need to slam on the brakes so hard you lock up any tires.

[Guest]

I wasn't saying no proportioning valve, I was simply stating that you do NOT want the rear locking up first or at the "same time" to have some sort of control if you ever do lock up the tires. Like Scott clarified, you want the fronts to lock up first, but hopefully you don't need to slam on the brakes so hard you lock up any tires.

Ok. Say it like I am in 3rd grade By puting the valve in you can split the line pressure to "x" up front and "x" to the rear? So, the fronts get more stopping power? Kinda sort of?

[aw12345]

No it limits brake fluid pressure to the rear, leaves the front untouched

[dirtman13]

Why don't you see if your stock proportioning valve works with the new set up first? What worked with another’s may not work with yours especially since you probably have a different master cylinder and different bore then what others have mentioned. You may find that your stock one works fine and save a few bucks.

[Guest]

Why don't you see if your stock proportioning valve works with the new set up first? What worked with another’s may not work with yours especially since you probably have a different master cylinder and different bore then what others have mentioned. You may find that your stock one works fine and save a few bucks.

Good point! I am just trying to get all the parts together and on hand for when I do it.

Got to love the internet, saves you time and money asking questions Thanks Chuck!

Ron

[Guest]

Ok. Removed diff cover. No surprises. Just drained it. I will clean it out later.

Question? The metal plates for lack of behind the disc brakes. They are bent beyond recovery. I remove the disc, caliper, and the 4 bolts in the rear to take it off?

Thanks

[OU812]

Yup. This is a good time to replace the brake shoes for the e-brake too.

[OU812]

Here is a picture of my parking brake setup.

[Guest]

here is a picture of my parking brake setup.

lol!!!

[bails85]

scott those are pimp where did u get them? j/k

[Guest]

Put an eye bolt through it and wrap a chain through the wheel and it's doubles as security too

[Materdaddy]

Why don't you see if your stock proportioning valve works with the new set up first? What worked with another’s may not work with yours especially since you probably have a different master cylinder and different bore then what others have mentioned. You may find that your stock one works fine and save a few bucks.

x2. I'm not speaking from experience, I'm speaking from what I've read of others' builds. Most people say to leave the proportioning valve alone.

[Guest]

Good, bad, or ugly. There is the inside. Cleaned her up and sealed her closed. Oil next. Anyone know how much oil she takes?