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  • #31
    Originally posted by bails85 View Post
    scott will the ford e brake lines fit on the yj. i know that there is some rigging to do on an xj or u just buy them from mountain and the u bolts and plates i was told wont fit either.

    Some have had success using the explorer cables. When I was running ZJ brakes on my 8.25 I had the best luck with using the stock cables with the springs cut off and a small cable clip. Just like in Erik Zappes XJ builders guide. This might be a good book for you.

    When I swapped in the 8.8, the clunker I stole it from had the Lokar kit. It works awesome now.

    You will need:
    New perches
    U bolt plates off the donor
    New U-bolts
    Some way to mount the shocks


    I got grade 8 u-bolts made at my local spring shop for about $40
    For the shock mounts, I just cut them off my old axle

    Also you might want to look into TnT's u bolt eliminator kit.

    @Ron: What are you winding the 4.0 out to?
    An XJ will always cost you less then any girl ever will, and you will always know when the spark is gone.

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    • #32
      im actually just going to buy the kit from mountain. and the e brake cables. just easier than hunting the other stuff down. it i9snt very much more either. or u can buy the kit from ballistic for 100 dollars. does not come with shock mounts.

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      • #33
        Originally posted by OU812 View Post
        That one works.
        Which did you use?

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        • #34
          Originally posted by bails85 View Post
          im actually just going to buy the kit from mountain. and the e brake cables. just easier than hunting the other stuff down. it i9snt very much more either. or u can buy the kit from ballistic for 100 dollars. does not come with shock mounts.
          Exactly what I did. I had plans to piece it together to save money. Once everything was apart I decided I wanted all my parts there and ready to bolt up.

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          • #35
            http://lokar.com/product-description...ake-cables.htm

            EC-81FU Ford Explorer/Wilwood Explorer Style Rear Disc Cable Kit, Black Housing
            An XJ will always cost you less then any girl ever will, and you will always know when the spark is gone.

            Comment


            • #36
              Originally posted by 2blk2drs View Post
              Some have had success using the explorer cables. When I was running ZJ brakes on my 8.25 I had the best luck with using the stock cables with the springs cut off and a small cable clip. Just like in Erik Zappes XJ builders guide. This might be a good book for you.

              When I swapped in the 8.8, the clunker I stole it from had the Lokar kit. It works awesome now.

              You will need:
              New perches
              U bolt plates off the donor
              New U-bolts
              Some way to mount the shocks


              I got grade 8 u-bolts made at my local spring shop for about $40
              For the shock mounts, I just cut them off my old axle

              Also you might want to look into TnT's u bolt eliminator kit.

              @Ron: What are you winding the 4.0 out to?
              Not 100% sure yet. But 4.5-4.7l Nothing to crazy. Just want out of the truck lane I am also doing the 1999+ intake swap too. Dyno shows more power with that as well.
              Last edited by Jeep4cern; 02-27-10, 12:11 PM.

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              • #37
                Sorry if I was unclear. What Rpm are you shifting at that the 4.0 wont get you out of the truck lane?
                An XJ will always cost you less then any girl ever will, and you will always know when the spark is gone.

                Comment


                • #38
                  Not so much the RPM. It remains low. It's more lack of "passing power" on the highway. It takes me dropping a gear or two to pass and it's a weak pass at that. To some that's ok. Not to me.

                  I could travel in lane #1 or #2. But, the skinny pedal would be 80% to the floor. Remember, this is on hills. Flat land, she does well. Does that help? Are you thinking of doing it or? Cheap fix.

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                  • #39
                    There are people here with more invested in PIAAs or bling wheels than you'll have in that stroke job.
                    holes = cowbell

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by inVERt'D View Post
                      There are people here with more invested in PIAAs or bling wheels than you'll have in that stroke job.
                      Agree. They estimate the budget stroker to be around $1000 (parts and labor). Not bad. Your right some spend more than that for a set of wheels and tires.

                      I think I forget to mention above, the "cool factor" of the stroker as well I'll keep my current wheels and tires, they are usually dirty and you can't see them any ways. haha!

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                      • #41
                        Ok. My homework shows 1991-2001 will work.

                        1991-1995 has drum brakes

                        1995-2001 has disc brakes.

                        Correct?

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                        • #42
                          96+ have disc brakes. Might as well go for them now.

                          Also take a paint pen with you. that way you can count the ring and pinion gears. It never hurts to double check
                          An XJ will always cost you less then any girl ever will, and you will always know when the spark is gone.

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Originally posted by 2blk2drs View Post
                            Also take a paint pen with you. that way you can count the ring and pinion gears. It never hurts to double check

                            ....and a calculator
                            Rich

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                            • #44
                              Thanks guys!

                              Went today to about three locations. None had the 4:10 w/LSD I wanted. Well, they had them, but already pulled. Tons of the 3:73 w/LSD.

                              I used the door to find out which one it had. Worked everytime but twice. No door

                              Here is the door code:
                              Code Capacity Ratio
                              43 Open 3200 3.08
                              41 Open 3200 3.27
                              42 Open 4.10
                              46 Open 3.73
                              45 Open 3200 3.55
                              D4 Limited Slip 3200 3.73
                              D2 Limited Slip 4.10
                              L73 Limited Slip 3.73
                              L - Limited Slip Differential
                              C - Conventional Differential

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                              • #45
                                "Cool Factor" is driving it off road and having fun every weekend! Love the "Locked and Stroked" avitar. Getting closer, good luck to you.

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