BTW... thanks for the pics Erik.
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Just a few fabrication questions...
Cutting was done with oxyacetylene cutting torch? Cuts look nice and clean. Was the cutting guided with a piece of angle iron or just cut freehand?
That looks like at least a 1 cm gap between the bracket and aft cut in the frame Is that just a trick of the camera? If not, how did you fill in the gap? I like the cut in the back of the bracket that allows a tie-in weld to the medial aspect of the frame.
Nice looking welds. What exactly did you use (wire, gas, V/A)? Things look very tight near the front of the bracket by the rear track bar bracket. Was it tough getting a decent puddle in there? Welded bottom to top, no?
OK, thanks...just trying to learn a bit about fabrication
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/library.htmlLast edited by jmbrowning; 02-06-05, 12:03 AM.Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
2003 TJ Rubicon: 4.5" OME coils; RE SF2; NthDegree TT/oilpan skid/shock shifters; FXD rock rails; Anti-Rock; 5150'
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Nice work guys!
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Holy overspray batman! Clearly, Brian was not at the helm of the spray can... It's not masked well enough
Looks good, very cool to see how that's done. I'm thinking with all this raving about those fancy shocks I might need to incorporate them into this front axle swap...1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
My Jeep
Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:
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Originally posted by jmbrowningNice looking welds. What exactly did you use (wire, gas, V/A)? Things look very tight near the front of the bracket by the rear track bar bracket. Was it tough getting a decent puddle in there? Welded bottom to top, no?
OK, thanks...just trying to learn a bit about fabrication
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/library.html
My guess is, it was cut with a plasma, cleaned up with a small angle head, the bottom gap was filled by spreading the base of the bracket with a BFH, and it was MIG welded using 75/25 mix and spooling L56 SuperArc, welded vertical down.
That's just a guess since I wasn't there.
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Originally posted by Darrell CMy guess is, it was cut with a plasma, cleaned up with a small angle head, the bottom gap was filled by spreading the base of the bracket with a BFH, and it was MIG welded using 75/25 mix and spooling L56 SuperArc, welded vertical down.
That's just a guess since I wasn't there.
The cut in the back was zapped uphill in two passes. If you look at the cut, you'll notice it's wide enough to run a top pass to get the topside of the frame and then another to fill in the lower. Done that way purposefully.
You are also correct on the reason for the big gap, it's also tapered so the bottom part of the mount will be flared when it's smacked over with the hammer.I am Savvy.
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Originally posted by rickHoly overspray batman! Clearly, Brian was not at the helm of the spray can... It's not masked well enough
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Originally posted by jmbrowning...just trying to learn a bit about fabrication
maybe if you'd like you can come down for the front shock mods, not sure when that is though. just a thought.
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Originally posted by BachmanWhat are the specs on the shocks? Extended length, compressed length, total length. You know all the good stuff.
Thanks
The stock damping value is 40/60 that's compression/rebound.
Erik reports that 50/80 is the ticket for his Jeep.
I have just ordered 50/80 shocks from the factory so I don't have to pay extra to get the valves changed after
These are the shocks I have, I'm guessing Brian's are the same.
http://www.foxracingshox.com/website...bCategoryId=38
Chris L."your jeep looks so hot!!"
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Originally posted by astonWith Fox Shox you can change the internal valves to adjust the damping rate in both directions. However, you must bleed off the N2 and recharge after, which makes it kinda' hard for most of us.
The stock damping value is 40/60 that's compression/rebound.
Erik reports that 50/80 is the ticket for his Jeep.
I have just ordered 50/80 shocks from the factory so I don't have to pay extra to get the valves changed after
These are the shocks I have, I'm guessing Brian's are the same.
http://www.foxracingshox.com/website...bCategoryId=38
Chris L.
anyway, my rears are set up 60/80. the fronts were sent to me 30/90, I may revalve if I don't like them that way.
I believe high end bike shops can help with N2 recharging as fox makes a line of stuff for mountain bikers.
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OK, I quess I was asking what model# the shocks are. I was just looking at Stu Olsons web site, Is this the same as what you did? Also last but not least, I would love a step by step. After I take a look at your rig at TDS, I would love to do this to my Junk! Also what are you doing up front, just fox shoks(part# please)?That's a BIG rock!
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The mod is the same as it is on stu's site. just differant shocks and suspension setup.
as for the part #s...
these are the rears
980-99-038-A
11.0 EMULSION
N/A (remote resevoir)
28.10 ext
17.10 comp
11.00 travel
these will go on the front eventually
980-99-027-A
12.0 EMULSION
N/A (remote resevoir)
31.10 ext
19.10 comp
12.00 travel
listen, I could try and give you a step by step... but it's kinda like giving directions to the airport after going there in a cab. I'd miss a turn and you'd never make the flight.
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