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Cutting was done with oxyacetylene cutting torch? Cuts look nice and clean. Was the cutting guided with a piece of angle iron or just cut freehand?
That looks like at least a 1 cm gap between the bracket and aft cut in the frame Is that just a trick of the camera? If not, how did you fill in the gap? I like the cut in the back of the bracket that allows a tie-in weld to the medial aspect of the frame.
Nice looking welds. What exactly did you use (wire, gas, V/A)? Things look very tight near the front of the bracket by the rear track bar bracket. Was it tough getting a decent puddle in there? Welded bottom to top, no?
Holy overspray batman! Clearly, Brian was not at the helm of the spray can... It's not masked well enough
Looks good, very cool to see how that's done. I'm thinking with all this raving about those fancy shocks I might need to incorporate them into this front axle swap...
Nice looking welds. What exactly did you use (wire, gas, V/A)? Things look very tight near the front of the bracket by the rear track bar bracket. Was it tough getting a decent puddle in there? Welded bottom to top, no?
My guess is, it was cut with a plasma, cleaned up with a small angle head, the bottom gap was filled by spreading the base of the bracket with a BFH, and it was MIG welded using 75/25 mix and spooling L56 SuperArc, welded vertical down.
My guess is, it was cut with a plasma, cleaned up with a small angle head, the bottom gap was filled by spreading the base of the bracket with a BFH, and it was MIG welded using 75/25 mix and spooling L56 SuperArc, welded vertical down.
That's just a guess since I wasn't there.
That's pretty close Darrell. All but the part about vertical down. Most was VD, but the part by the trackbar mount I started on the frame and walked it over to the shock bracket. That part was overhead.
The cut in the back was zapped uphill in two passes. If you look at the cut, you'll notice it's wide enough to run a top pass to get the topside of the frame and then another to fill in the lower. Done that way purposefully.
You are also correct on the reason for the big gap, it's also tapered so the bottom part of the mount will be flared when it's smacked over with the hammer.
What are the specs on the shocks? Extended length, compressed length, total length. You know all the good stuff.
Thanks
With Fox Shox you can change the internal valves to adjust the damping rate in both directions. However, you must bleed off the N2 and recharge after, which makes it kinda' hard for most of us.
The stock damping value is 40/60 that's compression/rebound.
Erik reports that 50/80 is the ticket for his Jeep.
I have just ordered 50/80 shocks from the factory so I don't have to pay extra to get the valves changed after
These are the shocks I have, I'm guessing Brian's are the same.
With Fox Shox you can change the internal valves to adjust the damping rate in both directions. However, you must bleed off the N2 and recharge after, which makes it kinda' hard for most of us.
The stock damping value is 40/60 that's compression/rebound.
Erik reports that 50/80 is the ticket for his Jeep.
I have just ordered 50/80 shocks from the factory so I don't have to pay extra to get the valves changed after
These are the shocks I have, I'm guessing Brian's are the same.
OK, I quess I was asking what model# the shocks are. I was just looking at Stu Olsons web site, Is this the same as what you did? Also last but not least, I would love a step by step. After I take a look at your rig at TDS, I would love to do this to my Junk! Also what are you doing up front, just fox shoks(part# please)?
listen, I could try and give you a step by step... but it's kinda like giving directions to the airport after going there in a cab. I'd miss a turn and you'd never make the flight.
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