lookin great Chuck! i wish i would have recessed the upper links on the truss like you did...
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CJ7 Build Part 2 aka Stopping the Flopping
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Originally posted by xjkevin View Postlookin great Chuck! i wish i would have recessed the upper links on the truss like you did...
Originally posted by aw12345 View PostChuck since you are in a chopping mood might as well cut the body mounts of , loose the body lift and then weld them back on the frame a bit higher so you don;t trash the ones under the side of the tub any moreCheck out .
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Got the rear completely mocked up.
6” of up travel at full bump. I’m planning on running 5” so this gives me 1 additional inch if needed.
I had to make a small hole in the floor.
Can you say tight fit?
Got 7” of bump with this.
Again very close. No need to replace the rear frame.
Tomorrow I start the front.Check out .
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Sweet! Looking good from here. Always nice having an extra inch to throw in there when you need it[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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Chuck,Your build looks like its coming out great.Wanted to thank you for all the extra parts when I got the new axles,it got me back on the trail in my CJ5 without dipping into my stash.Hope to have the lift soon for the CJ7 so I can get it on those axles.Dennis and Tammy
Its as much fun getting dirty as it is being dirty in a Jeep!
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Damn it Chuck! Pictures man, PICTURES![CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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Thanks guys.
Kurt, been to busy to take pictures. I'll try to get some tonight.
Update: The rear links are done and burned in. I was able to get one tire on and even with the 3.5" fender flare the tire sticks out just over half the tire. It looks sick though.
Last night I started the front. I ended up replacing the stock knuckles with Reid racings knuckles. I heard too many horror stories about the stock Ford knuckles when running high steer and hydro assist. I remembered the broken Dana 30 knuckle and don't want to go through that again.
The frame side panhard is going to be an issue. With it set at the same angle as the drag link the 2.625” joint will hit the pumpkin. I will either need to go 4 link in the front or I might be able to get a heim in there. With the heim I have just over 5” of up travel before it hits.Check out .
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Kurt and Chuck, it's a terribly tight affair under the front isn't it. For my situation I am still going for a change in the radiator seems to gain room for uptravel.
Some guys make a trackbar that curves around the pumkin to get clearance that might work for you Chuck
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Originally posted by aw12345 View PostSome guys make a trackbar that curves around the pumkin to get clearance that might work for you ChuckCheck out .
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Originally posted by dirtman13 View PostI wish it was that easy Art. The track bar has plenty of room it's the mount on the frame side that is the problem. One of the issues with staying full width. I'll post pictures tonight. It will make sense then.[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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Well, I had the front all mocked up this weekend and what I thought would possibly be a problem became one. The yoke on the front axle just touches the frame at 4” of bump. I was a little concerned about this with the late model axle. The late models pumpkin is offset more to the driver side then the earlier models i.e. 78’-79’.
Looks like I will be shortening the axle tube 2” on the passenger side.Check out .
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