thats crazy, im having the same prob and wished i had the shorter driver side, mines wanting to hit the oilpan.--79=hp60, think i fixed it though, HAMMER, so does that mean you are gonna shorten the rear or run wheel spacers?
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CJ7 Build Part 2 aka Stopping the Flopping
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Well, if all else fails, go straight front king pin axle and weld pipes to the frame and the axle for shocks like the old gasser drag cars did. Problem solved...
Man, the hits just keep comin, huh Chuck?[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
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http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]
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Originally posted by xjkevin View Postthats crazy, im having the same prob and wished i had the shorter driver side, mines wanting to hit the oilpan.--79=hp60, think i fixed it though, HAMMER, so does that mean you are gonna shorten the rear or run wheel spacers?
Not cutting the rear or running wheel spacers. Cutting 2" will make the front 67" WMS which is the same as the rear 14 bolt. I wanted the rear bigger for better turning but this will just be another sacrifice.
Originally posted by rat patrol View PostWell, if all else fails, go straight front king pin axle and weld pipes to the frame and the axle for shocks like the old gasser drag cars did. Problem solved...
Man, the hits just keep comin, huh Chuck?
I have a lot of other things to work on so this will not affect the schedule to much. I started installing the rear shocks yesterday.Check out .
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I still have a D30 front axle if ya wanna swap[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
[/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]
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Both axles are under the Jeep. Front has been cut down 2”. I took it to Currie but apparently they did not have the jig to do the work and they told me they could only re-tube. Being on a budget I really didn’t want to go this route. Travis at Currie called me and told me that a company in LA could do it no problem. That’s customer service. I tried to get him to trade me for a Rock Jock but it didn’t fly. I took the axle to Cook’s Machine and they did it in one day.
Got the rear shocks mocked up.
As mentioned earlier I switch to Reid Racing knuckles. As you can see they have a little more beef.
I will be moving the tie rod from the hi-steer to the knuckles for more clearance and for easier install of the hydro assist.
Check out .
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Thanks Art but there are other factors that may move the tie rod down to the knuckles. The hydro assist is that last thing I'm worrying about at this point. However, if/when I do move the tie rod there are way more options for mounting the ram.Check out .
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Well I think I finally got the front dialed in. What a pain in the @$$. I moved the tie rod down to the knuckles and moved the track bar axle mount closer to the passenger side. I now have plenty of room for the hydro assist. My bump stops should be here next week and once installed I will do one last check and burn everything in.
Ride height
Full bump. 5”
Articulation
There are some really tight spots.
If it isn’t one thing it was another. Had to channel the frame for the steering shaft.
Check out .
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