Chuck mentioned that earlier it will clear the front drive shaft better this way
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CJ7 Build Part 2 aka Stopping the Flopping
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Art is correct. The 4L60E is offset to the passanger side and it's a really tight fit for the drive shaft. I actually had to shave the pan to get it to work passanger drop with a stock drive shaft. I want to go CV and going driver drop will allow me to do that.
This is one of the angle gauges I'm using. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95998
I also have a dial one as well.Check out .
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[COLOR="Sienna"]Chuck, you're keeping a notebook right? Cuz I'm going to need your help some day.
Lookin real good, cannot wait to see this beast when you're done!!![/COLOR][COLOR="darkred"]"Death Smiles at Everyone... Marines Smile Back."
Adopt-a-Trail Member.[/COLOR]
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So last night before I closed up the garage I was checking for clearance issues on the front. Looks like if I go with the high steer I will have to raise the Jeep some more. Which I don't want to do. The tie rod and drag link will hit the frame. The distance is about 3". Not good with 4-5" of up travel. The picture is deceiving.
Check out .
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I think all of us that tried that run into the exact same problem. I've see quite a few frame notches to alleviate some of this.
Most bring the tie road down. Here we dropped the tie road down and a benefits was we were able to sneak the hydro ram in there so it's not on the tie road causing trouble. My axle side trackbar mount kisses the frame so that is currently my problem but a little notch should fix that.
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I already thought of notching the frame and will do that if I must. My high steer arms are tapered for 1 ton TRE but I have no problem drilling them out and running heims underneath. That’s probably the route I will go. I really want to keep the height as low as possible. Not to mention I only have about 3” of clearance from the top of the roll bar to the top of the garage.
Thanks GeraldCheck out .
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Originally posted by dr.dirty View PostLooking great chuck!!! Looks like i wont be able to play with you kurt stuart and gerald till i get a big boy jeep.[CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
[/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]
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Originally posted by dirtman13 View PostI've seen you wheel as well. I'm building this to keep up with you.
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Originally posted by dirtman13 View PostI already thought of notching the frame and will do that if I must. My high steer arms are tapered for 1 ton TRE but I have no problem drilling them out and running heims underneath. That’s probably the route I will go. I really want to keep the height as low as possible. Not to mention I only have about 3” of clearance from the top of the roll bar to the top of the garage.
Thanks Gerald
I'm with you on keeping as low as you can go. Especially since I'm vertically challenged! It's coming along nicely!
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Well, progress has been slow because of the transfer case. I was shorted a few parts and had to have the front output plate machined for a larger bearing for the 32 spline shaft. I should have the last missing part Monday and then the transfer case will be complete.
Since I have had some time to waste I tackled the Dana 60 and got the gears and locker installed and partial painting done. As you can tell I had to much time on my hands. Axles had to be done sooner or later and now they are both complete. The tires really stick out going full width.
As of right now I’m sitting at 98” of wheel base. Not quite where I wanted to be so I will be doing some more mods to the front and may be extending the frame further. The steering box is the main problem. Wish I could go full hydro. I’m using a Wagoneer pitman arm to match the turning radius of the high steer arms and that is keeping the axle back.
Check out .
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Originally posted by jonah View PostThat is looking really nice. What is your belly height? I was also curious what you did with your gas tank?Check out .
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