Here we go again.

[RAT]

Looking good, Kurt.
how far is the skid dropped from flush frame mounting, and what is the prohibiting factor from making it flush?

The skid as it is right now is 1" from flush with the frame. The real prohibiting factor is the driveline angle. I have over 20 Degrees of pinion angle to get the driveshaft in any semblance of a staright line. I want to kep the pinion angle below 14 degrees.

Did you have some fun clearancing the floor for the transfer case to be stuffed up in there??

I haven't had to clearance the floor at all. so far...

Is that a 1" MML with 1/4" additional shim?

No mm lift here, other than the 1/4" spacer. The MM is a Rock Hard piece.

[Geebo]

Dang you have been busy..If there,s a day you need a hand let me know ,I,m not alot of help but somethings take 2 people..

[NAILER341]

Don't settle for the 1" drop. You have come too far to settle.
Let's get together so you can see my junk.

Are you using a HP front axle, or is it LP?
I am assuming it is the front axle that is giving you grief with the angles, is this the case?

That 1" of drop on the skid is unacceptable as your goal is and has been the flat flush skid.
Busy today?
Call me.
I think I have some free time to swing by so you can see how mine was done to get the skid flush.

I have LP rear and HP front axles. Hopefully you have the same, or HP/HP.
Let's talk.
Erik

[Dukes69]

The skid as it is right now is 1" from flush with the frame. The real prohibiting factor is the driveline angle. I have over 20 Degrees of pinion angle to get the driveshaft in any semblance of a staright line. I want to kep the pinion angle below 14 degrees.

a couple more inches of wheelbase would help that. 103 seems like the magic number. A MML would also help. Or just shove the skid up there and limit strap the center of the diff. you'll still get full wheel travel in the rocks, just wont droop out fully in the whoops.

[aw12345]

Dana diffs can be run upside down so oiling of the pinion turned up a little more should not be the end of the world raise the oil level and if need be change the small pinion bearing every so often. Ground clearance is the objective and that nice flat plate needs to go as high as it will go. For a 1" drop you could have used a cheesy terra flatbelly and saved a lot of work

[RAT]

Don't settle for the 1" drop. You have come too far to settle.
Let's get together so you can see my junk.

Are you using a HP front axle, or is it LP?
I am assuming it is the front axle that is giving you grief with the angles, is this the case?

That 1" of drop on the skid is unacceptable as your goal is and has been the flat flush skid.
Busy today?
Call me.
I think I have some free time to swing by so you can see how mine was done to get the skid flush.

I have LP rear and HP front axles. Hopefully you have the same, or HP/HP.
Let's talk.
Erik

Erik,
I have the LP 44 front/rear. That is one issue. Another is the Auto trans fill pipe. It and the kick down cable from the throttle to the tranny run across the top of the bell housing, very close to the flange where the firewall welds to the tub. There is no room there to raise the motor any more unless I get in there and start cutting, but that requires removing the tranny or the tub, neither of which I was planning on doing. And actually the front won't be a problem so far. I'll have the front axle in within the next few days, so I'll have a better idea of just what I can get away with.

[Dukes69]

Erik,
I have the LP 44 front/rear. That is one issue. Another is the Auto trans fill pipe. It and the kick down cable from the throttle to the tranny run across the top of the bell housing, very close to the flange where the firewall welds to the tub. There is no room there to raise the motor any more unless I get in there and start cutting, but that requires removing the tranny or the tub, neither of which I was planning on doing. And actually the front won't be a problem so far. I'll have the front axle in within the next few days, so I'll have a better idea of just what I can get away with.

How much body lift do you have?

[dirtman13]

neither of which I was planning on doing.

[COLOR=black][/COLOR]
I think this statement always finds a way in to a project like this.

Do you have room to move the engine forward a little to open that gap between the fire wall and trans?

Looking good Kurt.

[NAILER341]

[COLOR=black][/COLOR]
I think this statement always finds a way in to a project like this.

Do you have room to move the engine forward a little to open that gap between the fire wall and trans?

Looking good Kurt.

Yup Yup..
This was also discussed with mine.
See if you can slide the whole mess forward an inch or so. That may net you the space you need between the trans and the flange on the tub.

Now is the time to do this. You'll kick your own ass later if you don't just do it right now.

Make it happen!

[RAT]

How much body lift do you have?

No body lift and none planned. I think I have it figured out now. I said I wasn't planning on removing the transmission but, because I'm designing a new Tcase shifter as well, it will be easier to do that with the tranny/tcase on the bench. So out comes the tranny and away goes the flange that's in the way. It is possible I may move the engine forward an inch or so, that won't be too difficult. And then there will most cetainly be a hole in the floor, although from what I can tell it will be under the drivers seat, out of sight.

[RAT]

Tranny is out. had to make a tranny jack before I could do the job solo. By the time this build is over I'm going to have a garage full of custom tools. The engine will move almost three inches forward without interference, but since I have the tranny out, that flange that is in the way will go away and hopefully keep me from having to move the engine. I'll post some pics tonight when I get some more stuff done.

[RAT]

Got the new shifter design fingered out. It works GREAT! and takes up a lot less space than the stock shifter. I have a few finishing tocuhes to do, then shove the whole mess back in and figure out exactly where the shifter rod and handle will be.

This is what's left of the old POS bracket. Some new adjustable hardware too.


Almost complete. The mock up is done except for the final postion of the shift bar.


The mounting bracket is 1/4" steel. 3/8" 24 spherical rod ends, nylon bushings on the shifter cross bar, external C clip locks it all together. The throw is about 4 inches shorter than the stock shifter as well.

[dirtman13]

Nice work Kurt. I wish my transfer case work went as quick as yours. Going on 2 1/2 weeks now.

[curtis]

Great job, Looks cool.

[Geebo]

Looking good there Kurt , the floor don,t look bad either!!