Here we go again.

[provelogear]

I see what you're doing! It's going together nicely!

[RAT]

Looking good Kurt.

What is the space between the frame and the skid? It is small, but I still see a space.

I am also curious why you are keeping the weight of the fuel tank all the way to the rear of the jeep rather than picking up an aluminum fuel cell and putting it behind the seats, or recessing it directly behind the seats.

You say the "Kings" are going in... Are you talking about King coil-overs?

You have been a busy boy!

Erik,

The space is those factory welded nuts for the skid. Those are getting ground down so the skid will fit right to the frame.
A fuel cell will have to wait for another time. I blew the wad at King Friday. But I'm building in a lot of upgradeability (is that a word)? so I can add things in the future that I can't afford now. There will be plenty of room up front for a fuel cell. I'm retaining the stock one for now, just moving it up 10 or so inches for the diff clearance.

[miguelitojeep97]

looks good Kurt. Looks like your triangulating the rear lowers a bit?

[NAILER341]

I know how that goes Kurt. I still have a list that has to wait for mo money
These damn doctors need to start building, and the yogurt industry needs more stores

[mrblaine]

Erik,

The space is those factory welded nuts for the skid. Those are getting ground down so the skid will fit right to the frame.

Kurt, those are not weld nuts. What you are looking at is the flange of a very large nutsert that has been tacked to stop it from spinning in the hole. If you grind it down, you will be left with a 5/8" diameter hole in the frame and two pieces of a nutsert.

If you want to use the nutserts to hold the skid on, take a router and counterbore the skid to fit over the flange.

If you don't want to do that, you are going to have to sleeve the frame or similar. On Erik's, I really like the sleeves we did that let you run the flat head Allen bolts and then tighten them on top. That really helps when you smear the heads on the rocks and still need to get the bolts out to drop the skid.

On other thing I noticed is how close your t-case LOOKS like it sits to the skid. You need to account for some drivetrain flex or rotational movement unless you hard mounted the engine, to keep the t-case from contacting the skid under torque. Letting that happen can and will blow the case in half.

[RAT]

Kurt, those are not weld nuts. What you are looking at is the flange of a very large nutsert that has been tacked to stop it from spinning in the hole. If you grind it down, you will be left with a 5/8" diameter hole in the frame and two pieces of a nutsert.

If you want to use the nutserts to hold the skid on, take a router and counterbore the skid to fit over the flange.

If you don't want to do that, you are going to have to sleeve the frame or similar. On Erik's, I really like the sleeves we did that let you run the flat head Allen bolts and then tighten them on top. That really helps when you smear the heads on the rocks and still need to get the bolts out to drop the skid.

Blaine,
Yeah, I know those flanges go away and the nut comes out. I was going is a similar direction of Eriks, and now might just do that instead. It looks easier than what I had in mind.

On other thing I noticed is how close your t-case LOOKS like it sits to the skid. You need to account for some drivetrain flex or rotational movement unless you hard mounted the engine, to keep the t-case from contacting the skid under torque. Letting that happen can and will blow the case in half.

The Tcase is sitting on the skid in those pics because I didn't have the Tcase crossmember in place. With it in place there is about 1.5 inches between the skid and the tcase. The crossmember uses 1.750 poly bushings for suspension. I'll have some pics up later in the weekend of the x members and everything.

[RAT]

Is thereanything sadder looking than a Jeep on Jack stands? Yes, one that's missing all it's parts!
I had to jump up the list and tackle the roll bar for the next few days. Parts deliveries are bighting me again.

Took the old cage out (the Poison Spyder sport cage will be for sale if anyone wants it). Worked on getting the dash apart for the new cage install, fitted the fuel tank to it's new location and trimmed up some old brackest that got in the way:

The old stuff coming out



I wish I could leave it like this (no roll cage) just looks like it would a blast to drive this way


Santa did stop by today with some of my stuff


I'll post more this weekend. Should be a lot more done by Monday!

[miguelitojeep97]

mmm.... 4 inch bumps?
anything special planned for the cage?

oh kurt, when I was herculining my tub I had the cage out. I just had to take it around the block with no cage or windshield. It was great! felt like my jeep was hauling ass!

[dr.dirty]

Damn you guys make me want to start cutting my jeep up lol

[RAT]

Damn you guys make me want to start cutting my jeep up lol

If you start cutting that Jeep and your wife doesn't kill you, I will...

[RAT]

mmm.... 4 inch bumps?
anything special planned for the cage?

Actually, Andrew and I were just talking and the idea came up of doing like the old LeMans cars with the one small racing hoop behind the driver's head. Wouldn't that look bitchin!
But no, Full cage with frame tie ins, built into the dash, and tie ins through te firewall to the shock hoops. There's more but I can't typs tonight so to hell with it!

[dirtman13]

4" bump stops? What's your uptravel going to be?

[xjkevin]

i only have about an 1 1/4-1 1/2, before my bumps hit in the rear..i have a friend who runs the same way and its smooth ridin..

[dr.dirty]

If you start cutting that Jeep and your wife doesn't kill you, I will...

LOL it will be fun The jeep will be getting coilovers soon


Your is going to be sick ,you and chuck are all over it

[dirtman13]

i only have about an 1 1/4-1 1/2, before my bumps hit in the rear..i have a friend who runs the same way and its smooth ridin..

So you're actually using the bump stop as a secondary shock at the end of full bump? If the shock is properly tuned wouldn't you only want to use the bump stops in a hard hit situation?