who took a piss? do you guys have a dictionary we can reference? hehe
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Originally posted by rickIsn't your driveshaft length going to change with the high 9? I would think so...Donate Life - Be a tissue, organ and blood donor
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Originally posted by Jeri LynAwwww, craaapppppp. I didn't even think of that-Anyone wanna buy a driveshaft for a 4" lift? Less than 8 mos old!1994 Toyota, dual cases, 5.29 axles with ARB's
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Originally posted by Jeri LynAwwww, craaapppppp. I didn't even think of that-Anyone wanna buy a driveshaft for a 4" lift? Less than 8 mos old!
But...if you want 1350 UJs you will need a new shaft anyway"your jeep looks so hot!!"
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piss
Originally posted by sarahwho took a piss? do you guys have a dictionary we can reference? hehe
http://www.peevish.co.uk/slang/index.htm
Taking the piss means to make fun of.
On the piss means crooked, not straight and square.
For extra credit look up: piss oneself, piss artist and piss about."your jeep looks so hot!!"
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Originally posted by aston1350 UJs
Originally posted by astonYes, of course...
http://www.peevish.co.uk/slang/index.htm
Taking the piss means to make fun of.
On the piss means crooked, not straight and square.
For extra credit look up: piss oneself, piss artist and piss about.Donate Life - Be a tissue, organ and blood donor
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The YJ comes with Spicer 1310 U/Js on the driveshafts. I think most other Jeeps use the 1310 as well, I'm not sure.
If you are messing around with axles and therefore drive yokes you have the option of going to the larger Spicer 1350 U/J.
One plan is to go with a 1310 CV joint at the transfer case and 1350 at the rear diff.
1310 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 7/32" length
1350 Spicer Series: 1 3/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 5/8" length
I am not an expert so feel free to correct me :shades:"your jeep looks so hot!!"
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Originally posted by Jeri LynAwwww, craaapppppp. I didn't even think of that-Anyone wanna buy a driveshaft for a 4" lift? Less than 8 mos old!
Edit: Damn I didnt read the other posts. Well, if you end up getting rid of it, we could use it.
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Im going with a newer 29 spline 8.25. Unfortunately the deepest gears it can take is 4.56. Eventually ill get up to 33s when my money tree starts blooming and i decide exactly how much fender will meet the sawzall. Just for reference, you TJ folks have it to damn easy. 35s on an XJ.......there's some work for ya.B R E T T
87 XJ 3" lift, 31s-thats all thats worth mentioning
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Originally posted by astonThe YJ comes with Spicer 1310 U/Js on the driveshafts. I think most other Jeeps use the 1310 as well, I'm not sure.
If you are messing around with axles and therefore drive yokes you have the option of going to the larger Spicer 1350 U/J.
One plan is to go with a 1310 CV joint at the transfer case and 1350 at the rear diff.
1310 Spicer Series: 1 1/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 7/32" length
1350 Spicer Series: 1 3/16" Cup Diameter (Dim C - Diagram A) 3 5/8" length
I am not an expert so feel free to correct me :shades:Donate Life - Be a tissue, organ and blood donor
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Originally posted by Jeri LynI see. But I have a TJ, not a YJ. Does the above still apply?
The whole issue with the rear axle yoke is the little tabs, that locate the U/J in place, are weak. The tabs break off, the caps back out and you're bollocksed.
My goal is to get a yoke (or other mounting arrangement) that will prevent this from happening. In this case I think 1310s will be strong enough."your jeep looks so hot!!"
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I am a little late here but maybe I can add a few words
I had a 65 cj5 for years, ran what came with it, never had any trouble, when a u joint busted, I can say it was years old. That jeep did mud in Lousianna for years and mud is terrible on u joints. I ran a skid plate over the u joints when I move to CA. but the factory ujoints worked.
I now have a 04 SE, I wanted the new 4 banger and am glad I have it, it has great torque and gets phenominal gas mileage compred to the 4.0, but thats not what we are talking about here.
One of my first mods was a D44 with a detriot auto locker, and a drive shaft with upgraded ujoints. Why? because I am now passing out 100 percent traction not 50%. 12,000 miles, one trip in mexicos back country, I have done John Bull and 2n17x twice and the u/joints still are tight.(yes I gbet under the puppy every 1000 miles and check it out.
I ran the Detriot in my 65 with stock u/joints no prob. but I now make a few more bucks than then, so I upgraded.
My advice, look at your wallet, if a extra set of u/joints are the key, do it, if 300 plus for a shaft with upgraded joints is the key, you still have to carry spare u/joints.
Getting off my soap box
You wheel what you can, do not try to live up to someone elses expectations. and remember, I will take the go around if I want to, noone makes you brake your junk but you.censored for having an opinion
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