axle upgrade

[nagal]

I got a new housing with 4.10's and ARB to run 35's. It was way less than $2G;s plus a replacement D30 with gears already set up in it.

I am assuming you just happened on a very good deal. If not, please let everyone know where you can get a D44 geared with ARB for under $2k.

Michael, sometimes you depress the crap right outa me.

You have a CJ, a lot more options at a lot less cost than a TJ.

[cjdirtbiker]

D44 built to your spec for a under $2G's

I am assuming you just happened on a very good deal. If not, please let everyone know where you can get a D44 geared with ARB for under $2k.
>snip

I got a referral from another jeeper on another forum for a guy with a drivetrain shop in nor-Cal. Not only is he a super nice guy but a jeeper too and very knowledgable. He'll build you what ever you want, whatever gears, axles, upgrades, whatever. He just buys DC/oem dana housings and sets them up to your spec.

He doesn't have the overhead that most shops have so his prices are the best I found in the country. And believe me I shopped, for about 6 months. There was no way I was going to pay $2500 or more for a half ton truck axle. Geez, Currie was over three grand. I hate paying retail for ANYTHING; give me a deal and I'm there. The best deal I could find locally was Scotty's in Fontana at about $2,300. They also have new housings built to your spec. Their base price is $1,600 for an open diff, no brakes, spicer axles. My nor-cal guy was WAY less.

I swapped my brakes over from the 35 and had him use spicer axles so I saved some coin there. My heep only had 40K on it so the brakes were still good. He said I should be fine with the stock axles but if I break one he'll make me a helluva deal on a pair of Superiors. They were an extra couple hun so we skipped it. With 35's it should be fine with them. You all can get whatever you think you need.

In leiu of driving to the Sacramento area you could have one shipped FEDEX Freight, it's a couple of hun. But you save enough to more than make up for the extra costs. I got mine brought down by one of my vendors that runs their trucks between here and there all the time.

So as to not violate our forum rules for a shameless plug just PM me for contact info. If you need an axle you'll be pleased.

[nagal]

Damn that is awesome, wish I would have know of this guy a year ago

[assyrianjeep]

Dont Do It......

whatever you do dont invest in a dana 35, its not worth it at all, there a piece of crap. i would go with a a dana44 there cheap and realiable, i picked mine up for 250$. If you really wanna stay with it, ill save u the hasstel im selling a dana 35C out of a 91 YJ Its geared to 4.56 and arb locker. The descion is yours.

Justin

[Jeri Lyn]

if only u knew how confused i was...

Yeah, what he said. So if I find a TJ with a D44 it won't be as strong as other jeep D44's? I'm planning on going salvage yard hopping the next couple of weeks. I made the mistake of putting money into my D35 and now want to go to a D44. (please don't rub my nose in my mistake) ANyone know what other jeeps ran the D44's?

How are the 35's with 4:10 gears? How's the power? I have 4:10 gearing and run 32's, but I'm looking at 33's when I get new tires before the rubicon.

Thanks

[cjdirtbiker]

Yeah, what he said. So if I find a TJ with a D44 it won't be as strong as other jeep D44's? I'm planning on going salvage yard hopping the next couple of weeks. I made the mistake of putting money into my D35 and now want to go to a D44. (please don't rub my nose in my mistake) ANyone know what other jeeps ran the D44's?

How are the 35's with 4:10 gears? How's the power? I have 4:10 gearing and run 32's, but I'm looking at 33's when I get new tires before the rubicon.

Thanks

Hi Jeri lyn,

I feel your pain. Aren't you the one that dropped in the hole at Doran? That was a helluva entrance, huh?

I have to assume you have a 3 spd auto in a TJ, so correct me if that assumption is wrong. My answer is based on that assumption. I can't really speak for other models, this is what I have experience with.

That said, 4.10 gears are perfect for 33's, that was my original intention as well. I just installed two axles with 4.10's, with an ARB in the rear 44. If you have a 5spd, then the consensus is 4.56's with 33's, and 4.88's with 35's. Otherwise fifth gear is such a high gear that you only use it on flat roads and downhills.

At the last minute of my planning I decided to go with 35" tires. They are decidedly LARGER than 33's, and if you have the clearance to run them and are doing trails like the Rubicon, seriously consider going that way. Erik (nailer341) was quite instrumental in convincing me that was a better option; he along with a host of other very knowledgeable and experienced jeepers.

I went from stock to lifted and locked on 35's in less than a week on my new-to-me 02 "X" with AT. A lot of hard work!! I've put on about 200 miles so far and I have to say the gearing is excellent. What's noticeable though is the shear mass of getting them rolling. It runs on the freeway fine, even pulls hills on the freeway without bogging. But accelleration is definitely not what it was with 30" tires and 3.07's. But I'm very pleased with they way it handles, it is smooth and vibration free, and steers like it's on rails. It's very stable and handles on and off road with aplomb.

The problem with trying to find a used 44 in a wrecking yard is that there just aren't any. They're sold before they're offered to the public. There's so much demand for them that the smart wrecking yards just build new ones from new OEM housings from DC.

The 44 is fairly rare in the TJ and even if you do find one chances are pretty good it'll have 3.73 gears in it. That's what DC put in them for the 6cyl. There are even fewer of them in the 4cyl version, however that would be the one that would have 4.10 gears setup.

The 97 up TJ is what has the spring pads and control arms welded on that will bolt into yours jeep. While it is a popular axle for Scout, F150, Izuzu Trooper, and a host of others, they would take considerable modification to make one fit a TJ. Earlier model 44's are narrow, (CJ) or are setup for leaf springs (YJ).

I hope I haven't over-simplified this but I've done considerable research prior to my recent build up. I've had two jeeps to consider and talked to hoards of drivetrain profesionals gleaning information on the best way to go.

BTW, all D44's from 97 up will fit and are the same. In fact, a decent choice is a new Rubicon oem, you can get them from Jeepsareus.com, they are all setup with 4.10's and a jeep version airlocker. You do have to buy a factory air pump, they have them too for about $160.

PM me for my contact if you would like a quote on a custom built axle to your spec.

[Jeri Lyn]

Hi Jeri lyn,

I feel your pain. Aren't you the one that dropped in the hole at Doran? That was a helluva entrance, huh?.......

Yeah, that was me. I'm locked both ends, auto trans, but not happy with the rear locker's performance, so if/when I switch, I'm going to go with an ARB. I don't see myself running 35's on this rig because it would require even more modification to my 4" suspension lift. Thanks for all the info, that was pretty much was I was looking for.

But to clarify-you stuck with the 4:10 gearing but went with the 35" tires?

[Comrade Andy]

So if I find a TJ with a D44 it won't be as strong as other jeep D44's?

Thanks

The TJ Dana 44 and Dana 35 share the same flexy axle tubes, which is why many hardcore TJ's end up with aftermarket dana 44's or junkyard axles. Depending your driving style a Scout dana 44 or an Explorer 8.8 would make more sense as you wouldn't have to worry about flexing the axle if you go with bigger tires in the future or are aggresive on the skinny pedal. :2:

[cjdirtbiker]

Jeri-Lyn:

>snip

But to clarify-you stuck with the 4:10 gearing but went with the 35" tires?

Yeah, had I known from the start that I was going to be replacing my jeep before I bought hardware, and had I known I was going to go all the way to 35's, I would have gone with 4.56 gears. But my old jeep had a BDS 3" plus a BL so 33's would have been perfect for it. That was the rig I was actually buying axles for. I ended up with virtually the same model, at least in drivetrain, with the '02 "X" - 6cy AT, 30/35 axles with 3.07's.

I found a take out D30 on Pirate from a guy in Monterey for $200 with 4.10's setup in it. Yeah, he had a 4banger, was going 4.88's. It was such a good deal since you can't do a R&P change for that, so I went and got it. Then I found my guy in northern Cal to do a 44 so I naturally just ordered 4.10's for it to match. I even have a R&P for a 30 in 3.73 I bought off e-bay. Guess I need to try and sell that.

It wasn't till my axle was on order that I found a deal on a used Currie 4" lift, so that's when it started to make sense to go 35's. Yep, it was all kind of happen-stance. I feel fortunate to have had the opportunity to have a 'dream-lift' at least for me. WAY more than I had originally bargained for. Just happens we had a home equity line so I had access to the extra $$ for all the extras to go big.

Anyway, there's not much difference between 4.10 and 4.56, and with the AT it works just fine. But yes, ideally, 4.56 would have been the ratio of choice for the bigger tire. Sure drives nice though, a helluva lot better than my old rig with 31's and 3.07. I can't figure out why they put such high gears in them things. I guess they're trying to pull the best mileage they can for CAFE. But you can sure tell there are BIG tires on there. Brian (Blktj) mentioned in another thread that 33's are a lot nicer on the road. I'd have to second that. I wanted more 'trail' less 'street', so it's working for me.

Keep us posted on what you find/figure out.

Regards,

[Jeri Lyn]

.....

Keep us posted on what you find/figure out.

Regards,

I think I'll stick with 33" tires, because to go to 35's would require the motor mount lift and body lift, etc. The 4:10 gearing would be pushing it to use with that big of tires. The axle quesion is another matter. I just can't bring myself to buy a D44; I hear people say D35's are weak, they break easy, but then I hear other people say they've ran 35" tires on D35's and had no problem. I realize a lot of it has to do with how agressive the driver is with the pedal. I'm looking into the Superior Super 35 kit or the Evolution series rear axle kit. The evolution comes with an ARB while the superior comes with a detroit. That way I could use the stock axle shafts as spares for the rubincon trip. I think?

Let me just say I love this website-everyone who gives opinions does it friendly!

[aston]

8.25

I'd like to throw another question into this axle thread.

A chappie in my local Jeep club is selling a Chrysler 8.25 axle with 4.56 gears for $300.

Is this a good deal? What are the advantages and d/a of this axle?

I am running 4.56 gears so that's a step in the right direction :yay:

[cjdirtbiker]

I think I'll stick with 33" tires, because to go to 35's would require the motor mount lift and body lift, etc. The 4:10 gearing would be pushing it to use with that big of tires. The axle quesion is another matter. I just can't bring myself to buy a D44; I hear people say D35's are weak, they break easy, but then I hear other people say they've ran 35" tires on D35's and had no problem. I realize a lot of it has to do with how agressive the driver is with the pedal. I'm looking into the Superior Super 35 kit or the Evolution series rear axle kit. The evolution comes with an ARB while the superior comes with a detroit. That way I could use the stock axle shafts as spares for the rubincon trip. I think?

Let me just say I love this website-everyone who gives opinions does it friendly!

Yes, a kinder gentler jeeper forum here. I like Pirate, it's hardcore, and rather impersonal. You just better know what you're talking about over there or you'll get flamed big time!

A MML and BL are one of the easiest and least invasive upgrades you can do to a jeep. I did them on both jeeps and while the MML is always a pain, you could have a work crew and knock it out on a Saturday morning. So don't let that stop you. If you are indeed going to stay with 33's then no worries.

I had to swap my brakes over to my new 44. In disassembling my 35 I realized I needed to remove the axles before I could unbolt the backing plates for the brakes. That means pulling the diff cover, removing the cross shaft from the carrier and dropping the spider gears out so the clips will come off the axles. Now I know first hand what everyone is talking about. IF, the big IF, your axle breaks on your 35 there is NOTHING to hold the axle in. That means you can't even tow your rig out or limp home on a front axle. You are SOL on the trail!

Another consideration is the cost of a Super 35 kit and installation. You are pretty darn close to the cost of a new 44. Once you wiegh everything out it becomes obvious why the smart money goes to a new axle, either a Ford 8.8 or a Dana44. Oh, and niether super 35 kit will work with your stock axles. Plus, they are specialty axles only available from Yukon or Superior. The 44 and 8.8 are as common as "bread and butter". Yeah they sell them super kits like hotcakes, but at the same time they ALL recommend an axle swap as a better solution.

If you're willing to run Doran entrance you better think twice about how you're building your drivetrain!!

For me, going out into the backcountry with confidence I wouldn't have to leave my jeep to go get parts was worth an extra few hundred bucks.

[cjdirtbiker]

I'd like to throw another question into this axle thread.

A chappie in my local Jeep club is selling a Chrysler 8.25 axle with 4.56 gears for $300.

Is this a good deal? What are the advantages and d/a of this axle?

I am running 4.56 gears so that's a step in the right direction :yay:

There was an article in a recent 4x4 mag on the Chrysler 8.25. I'll see if I can find it.

Seems it's a pretty good axle, but I think there are limited choices for a locker. I'm not sure ARB has a locker for it, but I think there's a detroit for it, maybe a True-track. If it's setup for your YJ might be a good deal.

[jmbrowning]

I'd like to throw another question into this axle thread.

A chappie in my local Jeep club is selling a Chrysler 8.25 axle with 4.56 gears for $300.

Is this a good deal? What are the advantages and d/a of this axle?

I am running 4.56 gears so that's a step in the right direction :yay:

http://www.jpmagazine.com/projectbui...78/index1.html

Our Cherokee came from the factory with a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle. This axle despite being a C-clip design has thus far held up to our XJ’s 4.56 gears, our ARB Air Locker, and 33-inch tires. Now that we are slapping on a set of 35-inch tires, some Dutchman Motorsports custom length alloy axleshafts for a Chrysler 8.25 will be a welcome addition. These shafts popped right in place of our stockers, and offer more strength than the stock shafts. Remember, ’97 and up 8.25s have 29 splines, but earlier axles can be upgraded with new side gears or a locker. The ARB is only available for use with the 29-spline axles. If you have a pre-’97 XJ and want to add a locker, save your dough and upgrade to some 29-spline axles at the same time. The Dutchman Motorsports axles can be set up for 5-on-5 ½ and 5-on-4 ½ bolt patterns or both. We ordered ours with both patterns. For now we will run the stock XJ 5-on-4 ½ pattern, but it’s nice to know that if we wanted to change to the stronger 5-on-5 ½ pattern we could.


http://jeephorizons.com/tech/xjstockspecs.html

Chrysler 8.25 - 27 spline, 1.17" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 91-96
Chrysler 8.25 - 29 spline, 1.21" diameter shafts, 8.25" ring gear, 3" axle tube - used 97-01


http://www.bc4x4.com/tech/2003/xj88/

This guy considered the CX8.25 but with an 8.8 for his XJ. Very interesting read.

[Jeri Lyn]

My jeep used to be a daily driver, which is why I went with the 4:10 gearing; D44 with 4:10's seems overkill.

I don't know anyone who has ever actually broken a D35 rear axle. (I know, there will now be everyone chiming in who has ). It seems likes it one of those myths that grows the more it's repeated.

Yes, I'm am willing to do Doran type trails, but I still feel a big part of the equation is how the driver treats the rig.

We'll see.