Anyone ever drop in a v8 in replacement of a 4banger??

[TxJeepTJ]

ive been saving up to by a truck, just for the road, but evertime i go off roading in my jeep its soo damn fun i cant let it go... I have a 4cylinder which is why i want to toss it.. ANYONE EVER DROPED A V8 IN THEIR 4CYLINDER TJ???? if soo how much did it cost, i have about 2000 saved up hahah

idk if anyone in this thread ever recalled that the reason for this thread was to see if anyone out there has ever done it, i dont give a $hit if you want to have your negative comments on about the subject. I also said i had 2000 saved up, i wasnt counting on just spending 2000 because ive looked into more than that... old fart- have you ever swapped a v8?... delete your posts off this thread if you havent

[NAILER341]

damn! this is another good read.

[TxJeepTJ]

damn! this is another good read.

what can i say haha... i think my name pisses people off or somethin cuz somethin always goes wrong in my threads....

[Old Fart]

Hmm, have I ever "swapped in a V8"

2-3 into FJ-40 LandCruisers, half dozen into CJ-5's CJ-6's and CJ-7's, one into a YJ (not mine - haven't decided between a 302 and a stroker), 2 into Corvairs (before your time) and more into Vegas and Pintos than I care to remember.

Oh! OH! OH! never into a TJ!!!!!!!

You want legitimate advice, be prepared for people to not just say "sure - you can do that"..........

[blkTJ]

thank you guys. that was fun. :yay:

[TxJeepTJ]

Hmm, have I ever "swapped in a V8"

2-3 into FJ-40 LandCruisers, half dozen into CJ-5's CJ-6's and CJ-7's, one into a YJ (not mine - haven't decided between a 302 and a stroker), 2 into Corvairs (before your time) and more into Vegas and Pintos than I care to remember.

Oh! OH! OH! never into a TJ!!!!!!!

You want legitimate advice, be prepared for people to not just say "sure - you can do that"..........

TELL ME HOW MUCH IT COST!!...

[Old Fart]

Tell you how much _what_ costs, one of my previous swaps or what I think your proposed swap would cost?

Cheapest swap I've ever done was changing the 350 to a 427 in my 71 Camaro - Chevy blocks are (or were) the same from motor mount centerline "back" and "down". Bellhousing pattern was identical in those days too (from the I6 to the 454 they just get "taller" and "longer"). Cost me less than a grand (engine, trans) - but I already had a 12 bolt rearend. Most expensive was a cross ram 302 Chevy (68 Z28 motor) into a 914 Porsche - virtually every part was custom made. That was over $6K (in 1979 money), and still needed some expensive transmission beefing when we were done.

As far as your swap, I'd be looking to pick up a complete driveline (engine/trans/tcase/axles), or as close as I could get. TJ makes it a lot harder/more expensive, as building spring buckets for the coils is a lot more work and money than welding on spring perches.

If it were me (or a kid of mine), I wouldn't even start unless I had $5K sitting in front of me (and a different vehicle to drive - this isn't a weekend project).

FWIW, I'd be looking at a 4.0 swap. Not as sexy, no great bragging rights - but can be done with mostly factory/junkyard parts. Will work with the 35's and front end you already have (for a while - eventually that LP Dana 30 will start talking back), you can pick up an 8.8 or taco rearend to eliminate the junk Dana 35.

[rick]

FWIW, I'd be looking at a 4.0 swap. Not as sexy, no great bragging rights - but can be done with mostly factory/junkyard parts. Will work with the 35's and front end you already have (for a while - eventually that LP Dana 30 will start talking back), you can pick up an 8.8 or taco rearend to eliminate the junk Dana 35.

Here here... I agree.

If you really want to blow $5k on an engine, why don't you find a junkyard 4.0L and build a stroker? You get lower weight than (most) V-8s, unless of course you are talking about an aluminum V-8 (get out your wallet and fork out another $5k). 280 ft-lbs of torque is easily achievable with a stroker, with some high buck mods (big bore kit) leading to ~330 ft-lbs and 300+ hp. Not to mention having a 7 main bearing engine as opposed to 5 mains on a V-8. The I-6 really is a glutton for punishment...

[TxJeepTJ]

Here here... I agree.

If you really want to blow $5k on an engine, why don't you find a junkyard 4.0L and build a stroker? You get lower weight than (most) V-8s, unless of course you are talking about an aluminum V-8 (get out your wallet and fork out another $5k). 280 ft-lbs of torque is easily achievable with a stroker, with some high buck mods (big bore kit) leading to ~330 ft-lbs and 300+ hp. Not to mention having a 7 main bearing engine as opposed to 5 mains on a V-8. The I-6 really is a glutton for punishment...

yesss now im gettin somewhere with yall , i havent looked into a 6cylinder. my friend was telling me about the power you can get out of the 6cylinder, but he suggested a v8 because of the sound (this is the kid that has 2 $25,000 dollar cars tho and is soo spoiled its undescribable)... how much would boring the I6 cost ya think?

[Old Fart]

I'm going to have to find a good online reference source for engine swaps so I can post a link..

Rick, unless V-8's have gotten a LOT heavier than my last one (late 80's small block Chevy), a typical small block V-8 swap will be LIGHTER than the factory 4.0.

FWIW, when I swapped the 350 into the FJ-40 (the Landcruiser 6 cyl is so close to a Chevy 6 cyl that some parts will even interchange), I DROPPED almost 200# off the front end.

[rick]

REALLY? I guess I always assumed that since they are dimensionally larger (two cylinder heads, thus much wider, but also slightly shorter), and everything is iron, that a V-8 is inherently heavier. I searched the internet for about 6 hours one night trying to find references to the weight of various V-8s, but I found very little info that was of use. (some block weights, but that's about it). I guess I will drop about 100 lbs in emissions junk and vacuum hose when I get the MPI engine in mine...

I'm going to weigh the various components of my stroker when I ever get around to working on it

Maybe someone that has a 350 laying around can weigh it also...

[Old Fart]

Rick, I have the data _somewhere_, I'll find it.

Typical problem when I was doing FJ40 swaps was that everyone wanted to just bolt in the 350 - and it's an easy bolt in. Problem is - the engine winds up too far back, which not only takes weight off the front end, but makes the cooling shroud for the radiator look like a tunnel. The right way was to bolt up the radiator, space the engine back for proper fan clearance and THEN determine the mounts. Unfortunately, that also moved the engine and transfer caee, so now you have two driveshafts to mess with. For that reason, a lot of folks went the "quick and dirty route", which wasn't the right choice in the long run.

I'm still bouncing between dropping a 5.0/302 ford in mine or stroking it - and could argue either direction as easy. Stroker would allow me to just rebolt up all the underhood goodies (welder, York, shower, dual batteries) - but I'm not convinced that it will pass smog. I think a properly tuned 5.0 would probably get a bit better mileage (as well as the increased HP and torque). I also have a Ford NP435 transmission on the garage floor that would bolt directly to the 5.0 (I'm swapping my current AX-15/NP231 for a T176/Klune/NP205) The small block Ford is a lot shorter - what's keeping me from putting the NP435 transmission in now with the Klune is the overall length. With the Giant Freaking Pumpkin on my rear Dana 60, I have to move the engine forward 2" to keep a workable rear driveshaft. I can do that with a stroker if I go to an electric fan - but with a small block Ford I could actually gain some rear shaft.

Fortunately, I've got less than 100K on the 4.0, so it's not a "now" decision.

[rick]

Ok, cool - I'm very interested in the weight issue. Sounds like you have done your due diligence on your options!

I think I'm going to do this: Dino's MAP Adjuster

I'm not sure if adjusting the MAP voltage, and thus the mixture, will get me through smog, but I'm going to give it a shot. In fact, I already built the adjuster, I just need to have the engine machine work done, purchase a stroker kit, pick up the misc sensors I'm missing, and put it all together to test it! LOL I made my MAP adjuster a bit more cleanly (in my opinion) by installing it in a radio shack electronic enclosure and sealed it with silicone. It looks decent and has a tiny hole for the adjuster screw which I will seal with a dab of silicone once I have it tuned the way I want it.

If it doesn't pass smog, then I may have to go to something a bit more proactive, such as a programmer/piggyback chip that will allow tuning the flat spots out.

It's only more $... J.E.E.P.

[Old Fart]

I've done a few

Not sure where I'll go on the engine, need to get a few projects out first. Have the brackets and hardware for my rear disc brakes on the workbench. Have the T-176/Klune/NP205 on the workbench (hell, I moved that mess from Yorba Linda over a year ago. Have the tubing to add the roll cage bar across the dash.

No comments from RatherBeJeeping!

Busy with SBNFAOHV, takes a lot of my weekend time.

If you have money in your pocket - you aren't really into this

As far as smog, a few tips:

Run the LOWEST grade gas that the rig will run on.

Run the HIGHEST thermostat that the rig will run with

If you have a catalytic convertor, run the vehicle for at least a half hour at freeway speed before you smog it.

[D4x4Fish]

Not sure on how accurate. If there talking long blocks or short blocks

http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/engineweights.html