Originally posted by mrblaine
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i was doing the same thing as steelman, had the popcorn out, loved the posts, so knowledgeable, and really well written, which is surprising on the internet, usually on any other forum the argument would have ended with hurt feelings, not comraderie. good job guys, thanks for keeping me entertained for a few nights, and keepin it civil.
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Originally posted by mrblaine View PostWhich tie rod?
It just doesnt seem right to bend the tie rod back while its on the axle. Wouldnt thins put a lot of force on the TRE and possibly break them? Just curious to know if there is any "easy"way to bend them back. I have a stock spair but it has a couple bends to it.[COLOR="Sienna"]97 TJ, 4.0 5spd, 3.5" Rock Krawler 5 inch stretch long arm, 30/44 locked with 48s, 35 inch MTRs, Warn 9k rock track 4:1, Vanco Big Brake Kit![/COLOR]
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Originally posted by miguelitojeep97 View Postlike stock or currie? either one really.
It just doesnt seem right to bend the tie rod back while its on the axle. Wouldnt thins put a lot of force on the TRE and possibly break them? Just curious to know if there is any "easy"way to bend them back. I have a stock spair but it has a couple bends to it.
The stock tubular tie rods will not work after they have been bent or even bowed slightly. They will fail under load every time, even if you straighten it perfectly. That's one of the drawbacks of tubular vs solid. Solid is much more forgiving to being straightened and re-used with no issues.
Like you, I'm not a fan of straightening them on the rig. I look at it this way. The TRE only has so much life in it at X amount of load. We abuse them by bending the tie rod in the first place, why shorten the life by bending it back when it's so easy to remove and toss in a shop press?
The Currie tie rod, you just toss it across a couple of support blocks on the press bed and bend it back. Bring the post down and roll the rod around and you can see the high spot. Mash the high spot, over bend it slightly and it will come back straight.
Coincidentally- I bent a rear axle pretty good by dropping the tire in a crack that angled left. Right as it dropped in, I turned right and wedged the rim instantly. Just the slightest amount of throttle blew up the CV and bent the axle.
I took it up to Superior on one of my trips up there and they handed it to their axle straightener. He rolled it and kept mashing the high spots until it ran true again. The reason they have an axle straightener is because most heat treated solid stuff warps when you heat and cool it.
The point is that axles, like the Currie tie rod are both solid and if the axles are straightened before you ever get to run them, straightening out a few tweaks here and there in a solid tie rod shouldn't bother you either.I am Savvy.
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Sheese, I go away for a couple days and look what I come back to.
Blain, you're an ass. End of story. I don't care to debate with an ass, so I'll leave you alone from now on. Welcome to my ignore list.'96 XJ, HP D30 front, XJ D44 rear, Lockright/E-Locker, 4.56's, Cobra CB, 33" Pro Comp xTreme MT's, SYE, Smittybilt XRC10 winch with Synth Rope, mutt lift.
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Originally posted by peteyg View PostSheese, I go away for a couple days and look what I come back to.
Blain, you're an ass. End of story. I don't care to debate with an ass, so I'll leave you alone from now on. Welcome to my ignore list.
But you are right about one thing. I am an ass, been one for a very long time and I'm surprised that you have been this slow about figuring that out.
Be that as it may, the tie rod is still not .120 wall dom.I am Savvy.
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Originally posted by scherf68 View PostCool, I see steelman has the popcorn out. You still have those 2 inch coils or have you grown up like mine has steelman.-Bob
'98 Black TJ [COLOR=Blue]Sport[/COLOR] 4.0L/Auto Trans
My rig : http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a95...n/DSC06310.jpg
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