Cougar Buttes 11/12

[daniel_buck]

not a bad idea, yall would know more about this stuff than I do!

I'm sure we can find a rock to flex on and check it out But I'm positive I'm going to be rubbing in several spots.

I'll bring two jack stands incase we need to do some emergency metal pounding. Is there much risk of the tires being torn up? When they rub I can hear the pop pop pop pop of the tread lugs.

In any case, I'll at least remove the inside liner, I've already got the passenger side removed, and I'm gonna remove the driver side tonight when I get home from work.

[mkjeepers]

Rubbing on the liner most likely won't damage the tire, but if you wear through the flair to the sharp metal underneath would probably end up sliceing the tire. If you have the stock bump stops it seems you'll have to extend them an inch or so, otherwise trimming would be the other option. A taller spring wouldn't cure the rubbing problem, it would still hit when fully bottomed.

[daniel_buck]

I'll have to look again, but I believe that I have some sort of bump stop extenders on there already, probably what went on with the 2" spring lift right after I initially picked up the jeep (at the time I had absolutely no idea anything about jeeps, so I don't even remember what went on since I didn't have the space or the knowledge to work on my own jeep back then). Will take another look in the morning.

[curtis]

Daniel post a picture of your rear bump stops.

[HeavyIron]

You guys have room for a CJ5 to join in on your ride?
I've never had it up in the JV area.

[daniel_buck]

Daniel post a picture of your rear bump stops.

my mistake, after looking again it was the front that I was thinking might have had an extension on it, since it has less space than the rear (although I could be wrong, maybe these are factory? I don't know)

If you cant read the ruler, the front has around 3.5" of space, and the rear has almost 5" of space.

Since there is 5" of space in the rear, I probably should put a bumpstop extension in there, eh? About how much extension would you guess? Maybe I can find a set locally before this weekend. I do have 1/2 the day off tomorrow, I've never pulled the springs before, but there's a first time for everything

If I cannot find any proper bumpstops before this weekend, I do have the rubber spacers that were mounted on the tailgate to space the spare tire (they are maybe 1.5 inches?) and I also have a set of pucks that were apart of a 1" seat riser kit that I'm not using either. Worst case scenario for a temporary fix, I could maybe glue/RTV/Silicon and duct-tape of these items on the bottom of the spring perch to extend the bump? Or would something that is glued down not last the trip after the first few times it hits the bump?

Front:




Rear:

[mkjeepers]

The front and rear look stock. You can get the aluminun pucks that are screwed to the bottom of where the ruler is pictured. Or they may make a replacement for the stock tube that is extended. If the front isn't giving you a problem leave it.

The springs are real easy to remove - just take the bottom bolt out of the shock and use a floot jack to raise the Jeep (place the jack under the frame) then lift till the spring is loose, and it pulls right out. Do one side at a time.

Harbor frieght has killer deals on floor jacks if you don't have one.

[daniel_buck]

I have a good sized floorjack. Thanks for the quick how-to :-)

Any idea what size bumpstops I should go for? I'm thinking it would probably need to be at least one more inch in the rear, probably 2 unless some cutting & grinding is done? The front does rub a little, but the main problem seems to be the rear.

If I wanted to pull the shocks and springs to move the rear axle up and down to check for clearance, how exactly would I go about this? I assume that I would need to put the frame up on jack stands so that the body doesn't move around, then just jack up one side of the axle until it hits the fender well? (with no springs or shocks, it should be pretty easy to check for clearance, right?) And I should probalby disconnect the rear swaybar while doing this too? Just don't want to do anything dumb, haha! I've never done this before, sounds like it might be a little dangerous if caution isn't taken.

[mkjeepers]

Here is a Rubicon Express nylon type. It can be cut down to size. They may make different lengths.

I usually go the hillbilly route to find the proper thickness - which is trial and error - drywall screw a piece of 1 1/2" (2x4) to the bottom piece and and test drive to see if that is enough. Then bolt on a RE permanant stop.

You can't tell the proper hight w/o fully articulating the vehicle on the trail - the stock upper rubber usually gets compressed when the Jeep is under hard articulation. The RE bolt is a 3/8". A drywall screw is less than an 1/8" so you can re-drill the hole for the bigger bolt. It comes w/ a self tapping bolt.

It looks like 1 1/2" would be a good thickness to start with.

[daniel_buck]

might the hillbilly route (wood screwed into the lower factory stop) work to get me through this weekend? I've got plenty of scrap wood laying around. Even some nice hardwood

[RAT]

I'm screwed. I have to work this weekend in Chino. Don't do anything I wouldn't...

[Roger]

I'm screwed. I have to work this weekend in Chino. Don't do anything I wouldn't...

You are signed up for Friday as well, Is that still a go for you?

[FJJeremy]

Sorry guys, I am going to have to back out of this one....

Till next time!

[RAT]

Friday is out for me too.

[Russ Chung]

I have a good sized floorjack. Thanks for the quick how-to :-)

Any idea what size bumpstops I should go for? I'm thinking it would probably need to be at least one more inch in the rear, probably 2 unless some cutting & grinding is done? The front does rub a little, but the main problem seems to be the rear.

If I wanted to pull the shocks and springs to move the rear axle up and down to check for clearance, how exactly would I go about this? I assume that I would need to put the frame up on jack stands so that the body doesn't move around, then just jack up one side of the axle until it hits the fender well? (with no springs or shocks, it should be pretty easy to check for clearance, right?) And I should probalby disconnect the rear swaybar while doing this too? Just don't want to do anything dumb, haha! I've never done this before, sounds like it might be a little dangerous if caution isn't taken.

Daniel,

While you are checking the bumpstops, also
1. make sure that the front track bar clears the front diff cover at full jounce. If it hits, you need more bumpstop
2. Put the shocks back on and make sure that the shocks don't bottom out at full jounce. If they do, you need more bumpstop or shorter shocks.
3. After you put the front springs back in, make sure that the springs don't rub against the bumpstops at full rebound. If they do, you need limit straps or shorter shocks:


Russ