Firewood.....OK, will do.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Cougar Buttes 11/12
Collapse
Forum Thread First Post
Collapse
X
-
I'm still good to go! Thursday morning I have 1/2 the day off, so I'm going to grind down some of the rear inner fender well and outer lip, I'm rubbing alot back there. If anyone is near LAX/SantaMonica Thursday morning and wants to help or give advice, I'll be here :-) I've never done much grinding before, but it should be fun I have a feeling I might need the extra clearance on this trip, haha![COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
-
Originally posted by dirtman13 View PostThey are forecasting rain on Saturday. Could be interesting.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
Comment
-
Originally posted by curtis View PostCB in the rain is alot of fun. Did it once and couldn't get up Chicken Rock. Gets real slick out there, MORE FUN.
You know Daniel, most of the guys just let the rocks out there grind down their flairs.
Comment
-
not talking about the flares, I've already cut them (I'll probably leave the rear flares off for this trip anyway, since I don't know how much time I'll have) I'm talking about the tire rubbing the inside metal fender well, and the sheet metal opening of the fender well where the flare bolts to. That's what I want to cut/grind/pound. It gave me alot of rubbing last weekend at Last Chance Canyon.[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
-
it rubs on both the front and the back of the wheel well, probably a little bit more on the rear side of the wheel well arch, but it's definitely both sides. What I really need to do I guess is extend the bump stops a bit. I do not know if I was hitting the bump stops or not, but it was rubbing for sure. And maybe shorten the lower control arms just a bit? I do have adjustable JJs in the rear.
The grinding alone will just be temporary for this weekend (since I didn't realize i was rubbing until last saturday, first real trail with the new 35s) long term plan is to adjust the bumpstops a little (if I have to) and do better clearance work in the back, and adjust the control arms if they need to be. At least that's the plan anyway. Maybe I can get someone on here to help me out with that sometime
Totally open to suggestions though!
Last edited by daniel_buck; 11-08-11, 05:58 PM.[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
-
It looks like your just rubbing on the plastic wheel well liner. Just take them out, and your good to go.IN A LAND OF FREEDOM WE ARE HELD HOSTAGE BY THE TYRANNY OF POLITICAL CORRECTNESS!!
Better To Burn Out Than To Rust Out!
Comment
-
Originally posted by curtis View PostIt looks like your just rubbing on the plastic wheel well liner. Just take them out, and your good to go.
It's a little hard to see in those photos, but the actual sheet metal of the arch is rubbing as well (well, the plastic fender flare lip that covers it is rubbing, but it's only a few MM thick). I'll trim the sheet metal before this weekends trip (thursday morning) and then after the trip I'll trim the flares to match and then bolt them back on. (don't want to attract to much police attention with no flares)
Someone on JeepForum posted a PDF from AEV that details this fairly well for 35" tires (the instructions for their highlining setup I guess), so I'm going to follow what that suggests as a starting point.
page 10 shows the sheet metal arch, and page 11 shows the rectangular channel that sticks out http://www.aev-conversions.com/pdf/i...structions.pdf
According to their PDF 35s should only rub in the rear of the arch, but mine is apparently hitting both the front and the rear (probably because I don't have enough bumpstop)
At least, that's what appears to be going on, haha! I wasn't really even thinking about all this until this weekend.Last edited by daniel_buck; 11-08-11, 06:31 PM.[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
-
yes, I do. 2" spring lift, and 1.25" body/motor lift[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
-
You need to find some 3 to 4" lift springs and call it good. Extending the bumpstops is a stop gap fix since you are taking up travel away.
In the long run more wheel travel is the goal, keeps it from getting tippy. 4" lift, 35" tires can make for a pretty darn nice wheelin Jeep
Comment
-
Yea, eventually I want to go with 3" springs, but I need to make sure that I can still fit in the parking structures at work. (the jeep is my only vehicle). Right now I have a little more than an inch in some places before I hit low hanging pipes and such. I'm just worried that some 3" springs may be a bit more than 3", or that maybe my 2" springs aren't quite 2". I have no clue. I have a good several inches of clearance in my garage at home, but not so much at work.
But you are right about keeping as much travel as possible, which is why I want to start trimming things before I bumpstop the heck out of it, haha! So far with the trails I've been on, i think I've had enough flex to not lift a tire in most cases, but I want to start stepping up the trails that I'm hitting. :-DLast edited by daniel_buck; 11-08-11, 07:11 PM.[COLOR="#FF0000"]R[/COLOR]edneck [COLOR="#FF0000"]D[/COLOR]riveway [COLOR="#FF0000"]F[/COLOR]ab
www.DanielBuck.net - www.DNSFAIL.com - www.FurnitureByBuck.com
Comment
Comment