Which lift kit???? Unlimited...does this count as a LWB ??

[Mr. Orange]

Hey everyone....I've the same old question as everybody else does, I guess...I have an '06 Rubicon Unlimited, and I am researching the lift kits. Finding info, but I couldn't find where it applies to the LJ... :confused2

I'm ready to lift it,:omg: but still considering which, and how much.
I know I want to go with RE, but narrow it to 3 or 4".
What's the advantage of getting the 4.5 kit with 3.5 springs? Is the hardware that different? Is there a $ break for the shorter springs? Also, I have an 06 Rubi, which is supposed to have a CV drive line setup. How come I am reading that I need to upgrade the upgraded drive line?
I am not going to make it a major crawler, (yet :censor: ) But I do want good clearance, and next tires will be closer to 33's. So, not too tall, and definitely not too short (stock) ...so all the advice from those who have read, used, witnessed, or just plain figured it out, please give your :2: .thank you

One more little question, how about adding the ACOS systems to a smaller lift, wouldn't that work ok?

[swbooking]

These topics have been covered many many times, please search...

But if you want my opinion go with the RE 4.5" kit with 4.5" springs, you wont be dissapointed. With that kit you wont need acos. Everyone says at first "not too tall" but if you go too small youll want to go higher. Do it once.

[jimmyrig]

How much do you want to spend? And how much work do you want to do.
In order of price and best in my eyes
1. Clayton Supension $$
2. TNT $$
3. Tera flex 4 link system $$$
4. RE LA with tri link rear $$
5. Nth degree $$$$

[Mr. Orange]

Ok...still doesn't answer my question about the the drive line....At what point do I need to change the connection...I know after a certain point length has to be added, but when do I need to pay attention to the joints? I thought it had a CV telescoping shaft already. Am I wrong?:dunno: How much lift can I do with no other mods?

And I want to keep it under the 2k mark, if possible..so I guess that kinda answers the 'which kit' question...

[jimmyrig]

Stay at about 3.5 To keep the extra cost down>
With an unlimited you can probably getaway with 4.5
And Not need to change your drive line.

[swbooking]

Stay at about 3.5 To keep the extra cost down>
With an unlimited you can probably getaway with 4.5
And Not need to change your drive line.

Or save up and do it once and do it right instead of mickey mousing it...

According to my Rubicon Express catalog you will need to change your DS.

2K is enough to go with the 4.5" kit (RE7000): MSRP: $1462.95
and new Driveshaft (RE1895) (This is a direct bolt in): MSRP: $449.95

or if you want to change your rear CV yoke you can go with:

Rear CV Yoke(RE1809): MSRP: $105.95
and get Rear Driveshaft (RE1861): MSRP: $294.95 (THis option saves you a little)

Then youll need shocks, wheels, and tires... But thats the MSRP on that stuff, you can find it cheaper (with member discounts, through clubs, organizations, etc..)

[blkTJ]

Stay at about 3.5 To keep the extra cost down>
With an unlimited you can probably getaway with 4.5
And Not need to change your drive line.

it all costs. the question is pay now or pay later. :dunno:

I can't believe I'm posting this...

listen to sw.

[swbooking]

AHAHAHA I cant believe that either...

[Mr. Orange]

Hey, I know these aren't the most stimulating questions, and I do appreciate everyone's input...This stuff is expensive, I know, and that's why I am asking. People may have posted in the past, when the LJ Rubi became available....but the long term report is what I was after. I want to do it right the first time, but that doesn't mean I have to go all out and with tri-link rear.. even though.:drool: ... But I do want it have decent clearance, Clarence.

You guys get what I mean, so I apologize for the ridiculous questions.:geek:

My last silly question would be this, then...
What real is the advantage of a LA over SA...no, seriously. Besides being longer:doh, does it give more travel? Is it a better angle for the dangle? They offer 4.5 either way.:confused2
Why, technically, is the long arm that much better?

:thumbs_upThanks again for your help, and when I see you on the trails, I owe you guys :beer::beer:

[swbooking]

The LA vs. SA debate is very VERY long and drawn out... A lot of it comes down to your terrain. Are you in the rocks mostly? go SA (also cheaper). If you wanna romp through the desert go LA. There advantages and disadvantages to each. Youll never get a straight answer on which is better.

Dont listen to Jimmy, he doesnt know what hes talking about with his Tri-Link rear. The 4.5" (RE7000) i stated above will do you just fine. I know these things cost money but its best to save and do it once rather then buy a kit and later buy a new one (you'll just be spending money twice)

[Mr. Orange]

Which one is the 1700? I just DL'd their catalog and don't seem to find that #...Are you talking about the 4.5 SA super flex?

So, that's really the main difference? Desert vs. rocks?
I was actually thinking a long those lines...looking at pics of the RE LA...Although, Nth takes care of that one, don't they?
Ok..makes sense, almost....If I play mostly in the rocks and mountains...SA would benefit more...with just a hint of Pismo every blue moon....

[swbooking]

pretty much your on the right track. If you really wanna find the right kit, go on some trail runs, take a look at people's kits, take a ride in different rigs with different kits and setups and yeah its the 4.5" Super-flex.

oopps, yeah its RE7000 not RE1700, my bad. (Dont know where i got that number from haha edited it for later reference)

[jimmyrig]

Don't listen to SWBooking he just got his drivers licenses like last summer
Yes your best advice is to save and do it all once!
Well yes the whole long arm vs short arm is very debatable:

My 2cents with short arms your tires will want to under steer when you are crawling on rocks. Long arms maintain a constant arch/ dangle as you said and allows your suspension to actually work rather then your rig be pushed by under steer. Causing less drive line binding and resulting in less breakage. Now I am not saying that short arm will cause breakage as I wheeled my 99 TJ with a RE 4.5 super flex kit ( with no cv) and no vibes, all over tough rock trails in CO. Now consider this, you will be driving your jeep mostly on the street. An unlimited will ride much better with a long arm and I think you will like it better off road as well. The only long arm complaint is you hit your arms or drag them. Well the one or two times that happens will be less the the quality of wheeling you receive the rest of the time. They can also act as ramps. You may also look into Curries J arm design you get the benefit of long arms but with the clearance of shorties.

[Materdaddy]

Another nice tip for saving money... buy used! My lift and tires cost me a total of..... wait for it........... $675 for a 4.5" RE SF lift (granted it's got a heim going on the front track bar) and 5 33" Goodyear MT/Rs on 15x8 american racing baja wheels (granted the tires are all but bald).

I did buy some other stuff new, like front brake line extensions, SYE/CV combo, rear shock relocators, OME shocks, rear brake line extension, extended bump stops, extended rear sway bar links (optional) but all that stuff was only another ~$800. So for a 4.5" lift, proper driveline fixes, tires, and all the whosawhatsits I was right at $1500 which is damn good!

[jimmyrig]

Plus beer and double cheesburgers! And lots of extra tools not needed