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cheap tricks for YJ?

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  • cheap tricks for YJ?

    Just paid too much for this high-miler w/ flintstone floorpans... it's a 92 Yj w/ a 2" shackle, 32" procomp tires on steel wheels (last owner was cheap too) with cheap shocks. Frame looks good (thats what counts.... right??). I plan to swap meet the daylights out of this thing for bumpers, lights, recovery... but looking for ideas on how to stuff a 33" or 35" tire (mebe spring over?). I have a NP205 lying around (Ok.. Burried in a 67 chev) and a 2" body kit (amongst the junk the seller offloaded on me). Where should I start? should I try a sterling 8.8 retrofit for my rear axle? Can I scavenge scrapyard parts to make a front coilover? Any input (and I mean any!)

  • #2
    SOA is a good way to get 6" of lift for not much money. $ will be required to resolve the unintended consequences: drive line angle, steering, brake lines, axle wrap, ebrake.

    Alternatively you can gain clearance by cutting the fenders. Stuff each wheel into the fender by driving up a ramp, or using a towmotor then draw around the tire.

    Join your local 4wd club, you will score all kinds of goodies that people want to get rid of.
    "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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    • #3
      I've read that Tera flex has a new kit for SOA with a monoleaf fiberglass spring. Any input? wonder how it would hold up to the cold climate. I've been told that my chev NP205 is in reverse rotation to my jeep. Anyone know of a good kit that might "reverse the reverse"? Any sugestions on steering correction for a DIY SOA conversion?

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      • #4
        SOA steering.

        You will need a dropped pitman arm. The tie rod will be OK. The prob is the drag link: it will most likely want to occupy the same space as the PS spring.

        You can buy a bracket that connects the drag link directly to the knuckle. Or you can fabricate your own. The drag link will need stretching btw.

        I bought one from http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm which I broke first time out JB sent me another one which I beefed up with extra meat and I milled the top of the knuckle for a better fit. Surprisingly, it has held up for over a year of 35" tires on 4+ trails.
        "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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        • #5
          Originally posted by aston View Post
          SOA steering.

          You will need a dropped pitman arm. The tie rod will be OK. The prob is the drag link: it will most likely want to occupy the same space as the PS spring.

          You can buy a bracket that connects the drag link directly to the knuckle. Or you can fabricate your own. The drag link will need stretching btw.

          I bought one from http://www.jb4x4.com/products.htm which I broke first time out JB sent me another one which I beefed up with extra meat and I milled the top of the knuckle for a better fit. Surprisingly, it has held up for over a year of 35" tires on 4+ trails.
          It really puts a smile on my face when I see your posts these days... :yay:
          myJeeprocks.com

          "in the end... the rocks always win."

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          • #6
            Originally posted by blkTJ View Post
            It really puts a smile on my face when I see your posts these days... :yay:
            I wonder why???

            If we aren't supposed to eat animals, then why are they made out of meat?

            http://jeep.matandtiff.com/

            Truth is treason in the empire of lies. -Ron Paul

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            • #7
              33's? THe YJ will fit 32's with a stock suspension. It'll rub like nobody's business, and you can break stuff, but they'll fit. Anyway, with the shackle lift, all you'd need to do is put some inexpensive lift, like maybe body spacers or something, and the 33's should fit no problem. (I think)
              The SOA is nice. WIth it you can fit like 35's I think. I'm new to Jeeps...so a definite answer isn't my thing. Um...yeah, like you said it's the frame that counts. Body work is easy... just make sure you use a MIG welder that has a really low power rating...or a TIG...cause they'll burn straight through the metal (Found this out the hard way on my fender). The 8.8 is a really common swap inot the YJ...and I don't think it's all that hard. I'd say find one from an explorer (The explorer did come with an 8.8 right?) and use those, cause they have rear disc brakes.
              WTF Mate?

              Confucious Say: He who stand on toilet...is high on pot.

              ______
              [_____]
              (HllllllllH) vroom VROOM
              []--o---[]

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              • #8
                How did you determin your shock length on the soa? How much trimming could I do b4 looking hacked, and how does a soa ride with stock springs? for that matter, do they flex worth a darn?

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                • #9
                  [QUOTE=l that hard. I'd say find one from an explorer (The explorer did come with an 8.8 right?) and use those, cause they have rear disc brakes.[/QUOTE]

                  Yea, 95 to 01 exploders use the disc brakes, but i've heard reports that if you don't weld the tubes to the pumpkn, the spots tear out and some major carnage can result. I may have found one of my customers (Towing and recovery co.) thats parting out two that fit the bill... I'm shooting for about $100 bucks or less. Most yards want between $225 and $275 for an assembly w/ brakes. I plan to modify the existing ford equiptment so all I'll need to buy should be new longer u-bolts. Anyone know what size I need??

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by poultry411 View Post
                    How did you determin your shock length on the soa? How much trimming could I do b4 looking hacked, and how does a soa ride with stock springs? for that matter, do they flex worth a darn?

                    If nothing else changes add approx 6" to the shock length. The SOA lift is made up od the axle tube dia, the height of the new perch and the height of the spring pack or 3ish+1ish+1ish.

                    Many jeeps looked hacked 'cos the owner did a crappy job. If you draw a cut line carefully and take your time it should be OK. SOA rides the same as SUA if you keep the springs.

                    Flex is fair, if you get rid of the track bars and the sway bar.
                    "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by poultry411 View Post
                      Yea, 95 to 01 exploders use the disc brakes, but i've heard reports that if you don't weld the tubes to the pumpkn, the spots tear out and some major carnage can result.
                      ....same goes for the D35.
                      "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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                      • #12
                        How about traction ideas? who likes what (Air locker, posi, spool, "Ected", pull cable...) and what is a good gear ratio for 35" tires that fit an 8.8 and d35? Speaking of the topic, whats a good solution to the axlewrap after an soa conversion?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by poultry411 View Post
                          How about traction ideas? who likes what (Air locker, posi, spool, "Ected", pull cable...) and what is a good gear ratio for 35" tires that fit an 8.8 and d35? Speaking of the topic, whats a good solution to the axlewrap after an soa conversion?
                          Too many bloody questions.

                          Detroit = strong and reliable. No freakin O rings to leak :yay:

                          I think you mean an 8.8 and a D30 - 4.56 or 4.88

                          You will need a ladder bar. Build it strong, v strong. The Skyjacker 5th link is crap.

                          I can send you a pic when I get home .... sent from MJR mission control
                          "your jeep looks so hot!!"

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by aston View Post
                            Too many bloody questions.

                            Detroit = strong and reliable. No freakin O rings to leak :yay:

                            I think you mean an 8.8 and a D30 - 4.56 or 4.88

                            You will need a ladder bar. Build it strong, v strong. The Skyjacker 5th link is crap.

                            I can send you a pic when I get home .... sent from MJR mission control
                            The pic would be greatly appreciated! any one who has a cusom setup or reason to beat down a build to order, let me know!... sorry, I'll try to chill on the q's

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                            • #15
                              Just scored a 8.8 for $150 from my customer. I have yet to retrieve it but I've got official dibs!:thumbs_up :thumbs_up :thumbs_up

                              I'll need an SYE for this SOA I guess... any thoughts on this new shorty vs for np231's? should I bite the bullet and have a local fab out the drive shafts, or should I work with Tom Woods?

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