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replacing lug bolts

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  • replacing lug bolts

    to make a long story short, I got a flat the other day and between the added torque of riding on a flat and cross threading the lug knuts I busted 3 of the 5 on my rear passenger side.

    what needs to be done to replace them? anyone out there who can give me a quick set of directions so that I do it properly.

    Thanks.
    98 TJ 4.0 - 2" PORC budget lift - 31s

  • #2
    This is how I did mine on the rear (dana 35). Hopefully you can avoid many of the steps I went through

    1. Remove Wheel
    2. Remove Brake Drum
    3. Remove Diff Cover
    4. Curse
    5. Quickly place drain pan under differential
    6. Remove crossbolt from differential
    7. Push axle shaft in
    8. Remove C-Clip
    9. Drop C-Clip in drain pan
    10. Curse
    11. Pull Shaft
    12. Using C-Press, pop out stud
    13. Using C-Press, press in new stud
    14. Clean shaft and inspect
    15. Drop Spider Gears in drain pan
    16. Curse
    17. Retreive spider gears from drain pan and promptly drop them in again
    18. Curse loudly
    19. Replace Axle shafts
    20. Push shaft in
    21. Drop C-Clip in drain pan
    22. Curse
    23. Put C-Clip back on axle shaft
    24. Push shaft out
    25. Replace crossbolt
    26. Replace Diff Cover
    27. Fill Diff with Fluid
    28. Replace Brake Drum
    29. Put wheel back on
    30. Tip drain pan while pulling it from under Jeep
    31. Curse extremely loudly
    32. Clean up spill
    33. Clean up self
    34. Drink a beer (or 3)
    35. Curse the stupid tire company that put the lug nuts on too tight to begin with
    Michael

    [sign]nlm mln[/sign]

    Comment


    • #3
      i hope you can skip some of those

      • jack up rear of jeep
      • make safe with jackstands
      • drain differential by removing cover
      • remove wheel
      • remove drum
      • remove cross pin in diff
      • remove c clip by pushing axle shaft to center of jeep
      • a magnet helps with this c clip removal
      • replace broken stuff
      • put it back together

      make sure no junk gets in the diff.

      it is a pain in the ass to replace $6.00 worth of broken studs.
      you may as well check the ones on the other side of your jeep while you are at it.

      you can most often draw the new ones in with the lug nut, but sometimes need to use a press to get them in there properly.
      have fun!
      >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
      ERIK


      95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

      Comment


      • #4
        You really do not need to remove the axle. Take a hammer and give the lugs a good wack. The lug will come right out. put a new lug and 4 or 5 washers and tighten the lug (this will pull lug all the way in). Do this for each lug. 15 minutes and you are done. This is exactly how a tire shop would do it.
        1994 Toyota, dual cases, 5.29 axles with ARB's

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by igofshn
          You really do not need to remove the axle. Take a hammer and give the lugs a good wack. The lug will come right out. put a new lug and 4 or 5 washers and tighten the lug (this will pull lug all the way in). Do this for each lug. 15 minutes and you are done. This is exactly how a tire shop would do it.
          Exactly. Never done it on a Jeep, but I imagine its the same as a GM product. My old truck broke all six studs while my girlfriend was driving it. Grabbed the jack, stands, HAMMER, and about 30 minutes later was back on the road. This way also makes for a good stress reliever, just watch the sheet metal, it doesn't take a good solid hit without crunchin.
          04 Rubicon
          4.5" RE Super Flex
          1" BL
          CV Yoke w/ Driveshaft
          Currie Anti-rock swaybar
          35" el cheapos
          Front Bumper & Rockers

          Comment


          • #6
            that would sure be cool.. this is not possible with my 8.8
            there is no room to tilt in a new stud, nor is there a hole in the plate behind the axle to allow this.
            i tried :confused:
            i hope the 35 is as you suggest, because it was a pita to do my 8.8 studs.
            >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
            ERIK


            95 yj, locked lifted, and ready to rock!

            Comment


            • #7
              I think I would cut a hole in the backing plate before I pulled the axles... You could probably use a floor plug or something to put back in the hole. You need a BIG hammer to make it easy. Otherwise you may be pounding the snot oot of it to get them out, although if they are buggered up they may have shifted enough in the holes to make them pop right out. I know on a D44 there is room to replace them, not sure about the 35. I can look tonight.
              1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
              My Jeep

              Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

              Comment


              • #8
                Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:

                (1) remove tire

                (2) remove drum cover - this is where it becomes difficult
                * if the drum is stuck first try WD 40 or some kind of lube
                * still no luck then you have to remove this small plug on the rear side, and using two small screw drives you have to expand the brakes. This took FOREVER to figure out. I went freakin' nuts fighting with it. However, expanded the drum came right off!

                (3) Grab a hammer and knock the bolts out and releaving the stress from trying to get the drum off.

                (4) replace bolts, tap them in slightly so that when you put the tire back on they don't fall back into the drum casing.

                (5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

                the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.
                98 TJ 4.0 - 2" PORC budget lift - 31s

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by GreenMachine
                  Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:



                  (5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

                  the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.

                  You're scaring me.
                  I am Savvy.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GreenMachine
                    the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.
                    I had trouble getting the rear drums off back When I replaced a bad pinion bearing (it was my first diff rebuilding experience). Then I released the parking brake and it got WAAAY easier

                    note: this story is stupid, but unfortunately true
                    It's not the size of your tire, it's how you place it!

                    '98 wrangler 4" superlift rockrunner kit, adjustable trackbar, 33's, rear EZlocker,
                    and Kargomaster rack.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by king4wd
                      I had trouble getting the rear drums off back When I replaced a bad pinion bearing (it was my first diff rebuilding experience). Then I released the parking brake and it got WAAAY easier

                      note: this story is stupid, but unfortunately true
                      BTDT.
                      myJeeprocks.com

                      "in the end... the rocks always win."

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by GreenMachine
                        Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:

                        (1) remove tire

                        (2) remove drum cover - this is where it becomes difficult
                        * if the drum is stuck first try WD 40 or some kind of lube
                        * still no luck then you have to remove this small plug on the rear side, and using two small screw drives you have to expand the brakes. This took FOREVER to figure out. I went freakin' nuts fighting with it. However, expanded the drum came right off!

                        (3) Grab a hammer and knock the bolts out and releaving the stress from trying to get the drum off.

                        (4) replace bolts, tap them in slightly so that when you put the tire back on they don't fall back into the drum casing.

                        (5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

                        the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.
                        Are you saying you didn't pull the studs in before putting the wheel back on. but just put the wheel on and tightend the "knuts" ? How do you know you got them seated properly and have you checked them again since you did this?
                        [COLOR=DarkSlateBlue]2001 TJ with stuff..[/COLOR]

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I set them and pulled them in slighty. once the wheel was back on I tightened them all the way to make sure they were fully secured. I have since checked and doubled checked them and everything is set and tight.
                          98 TJ 4.0 - 2" PORC budget lift - 31s

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            :thumbs_up
                            [COLOR=DarkSlateBlue]2001 TJ with stuff..[/COLOR]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by GreenMachine
                              I set them and pulled them in slighty. once the wheel was back on I tightened them all the way to make sure they were fully secured. I have since checked and doubled checked them and everything is set and tight.
                              I would keep checkin... They go in kinda tough, so unless you overtorqued them with the wheels on you might not have gotten them seated.

                              As far as the drum removal goes, you can make life a lot easier next time by getting a brake shoe adjuster (basically a little lever) that lets you de-adjust the shoes so you can get the drum off. That's what those little rubber grommets in the backing plate are there for. Take the rubber out, stick the tool in there and loosen the adjuster. Drum comes right off.
                              1986 CJ-7; 4.6L stroker, balanced & blueprinted; 5" lift, 35x1250 MTRs, Poison Spyder Full Width kit,
                              My Jeep

                              Moab Rocker Knocker Video:shades:

                              Comment

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