replacing lug bolts

[GreenMachine]

to make a long story short, I got a flat the other day and between the added torque of riding on a flat and cross threading the lug knuts I busted 3 of the 5 on my rear passenger side.

what needs to be done to replace them? anyone out there who can give me a quick set of directions so that I do it properly.

Thanks.

[nagal]

This is how I did mine on the rear (dana 35). Hopefully you can avoid many of the steps I went through

1. Remove Wheel
2. Remove Brake Drum
3. Remove Diff Cover
4. Curse
5. Quickly place drain pan under differential
6. Remove crossbolt from differential
7. Push axle shaft in
8. Remove C-Clip
9. Drop C-Clip in drain pan
10. Curse
11. Pull Shaft
12. Using C-Press, pop out stud
13. Using C-Press, press in new stud
14. Clean shaft and inspect
15. Drop Spider Gears in drain pan
16. Curse
17. Retreive spider gears from drain pan and promptly drop them in again
18. Curse loudly
19. Replace Axle shafts
20. Push shaft in
21. Drop C-Clip in drain pan
22. Curse
23. Put C-Clip back on axle shaft
24. Push shaft out
25. Replace crossbolt
26. Replace Diff Cover
27. Fill Diff with Fluid
28. Replace Brake Drum
29. Put wheel back on
30. Tip drain pan while pulling it from under Jeep
31. Curse extremely loudly
32. Clean up spill
33. Clean up self
34. Drink a beer (or 3)
35. Curse the stupid tire company that put the lug nuts on too tight to begin with

[NAILER341]

i hope you can skip some of those

• jack up rear of jeep
• make safe with jackstands
• drain differential by removing cover
• remove wheel
• remove drum
• remove cross pin in diff
• remove c clip by pushing axle shaft to center of jeep
• a magnet helps with this c clip removal
• replace broken stuff
• put it back together

make sure no junk gets in the diff.

it is a pain in the ass to replace $6.00 worth of broken studs.
you may as well check the ones on the other side of your jeep while you are at it.

you can most often draw the new ones in with the lug nut, but sometimes need to use a press to get them in there properly.
have fun!

[igofshn]

You really do not need to remove the axle. Take a hammer and give the lugs a good wack. The lug will come right out. put a new lug and 4 or 5 washers and tighten the lug (this will pull lug all the way in). Do this for each lug. 15 minutes and you are done. This is exactly how a tire shop would do it.

[tjrubicon]

You really do not need to remove the axle. Take a hammer and give the lugs a good wack. The lug will come right out. put a new lug and 4 or 5 washers and tighten the lug (this will pull lug all the way in). Do this for each lug. 15 minutes and you are done. This is exactly how a tire shop would do it.

Exactly. Never done it on a Jeep, but I imagine its the same as a GM product. My old truck broke all six studs while my girlfriend was driving it. Grabbed the jack, stands, HAMMER, and about 30 minutes later was back on the road. This way also makes for a good stress reliever, just watch the sheet metal, it doesn't take a good solid hit without crunchin.

[NAILER341]

that would sure be cool.. this is not possible with my 8.8
there is no room to tilt in a new stud, nor is there a hole in the plate behind the axle to allow this.
i tried :confused:
i hope the 35 is as you suggest, because it was a pita to do my 8.8 studs.

[rick]

I think I would cut a hole in the backing plate before I pulled the axles... You could probably use a floor plug or something to put back in the hole. You need a BIG hammer to make it easy. Otherwise you may be pounding the snot oot of it to get them out, although if they are buggered up they may have shifted enough in the holes to make them pop right out. I know on a D44 there is room to replace them, not sure about the 35. I can look tonight.

[GreenMachine]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:

(1) remove tire

(2) remove drum cover - this is where it becomes difficult
* if the drum is stuck first try WD 40 or some kind of lube
* still no luck then you have to remove this small plug on the rear side, and using two small screw drives you have to expand the brakes. This took FOREVER to figure out. I went freakin' nuts fighting with it. However, expanded the drum came right off!

(3) Grab a hammer and knock the bolts out and releaving the stress from trying to get the drum off.

(4) replace bolts, tap them in slightly so that when you put the tire back on they don't fall back into the drum casing.

(5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.

[mrblaine]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:



(5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.

You're scaring me.

[king4wd]

the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.

I had trouble getting the rear drums off back When I replaced a bad pinion bearing (it was my first diff rebuilding experience). Then I released the parking brake and it got WAAAY easier

note: this story is stupid, but unfortunately true

[blkTJ]

I had trouble getting the rear drums off back When I replaced a bad pinion bearing (it was my first diff rebuilding experience). Then I released the parking brake and it got WAAAY easier

note: this story is stupid, but unfortunately true

BTDT.

[Kiwi]

Thanks for everyone's suggestions, but I got it done:

(1) remove tire

(2) remove drum cover - this is where it becomes difficult
* if the drum is stuck first try WD 40 or some kind of lube
* still no luck then you have to remove this small plug on the rear side, and using two small screw drives you have to expand the brakes. This took FOREVER to figure out. I went freakin' nuts fighting with it. However, expanded the drum came right off!

(3) Grab a hammer and knock the bolts out and releaving the stress from trying to get the drum off.

(4) replace bolts, tap them in slightly so that when you put the tire back on they don't fall back into the drum casing.

(5) Replace tire and tighten lug knuts

the task would have been quite simple had I not had such difficulty getting the drum casing off. As soon as they finally popped it took mere minutes to replace everything.

Are you saying you didn't pull the studs in before putting the wheel back on. but just put the wheel on and tightend the "knuts" ? How do you know you got them seated properly and have you checked them again since you did this?

[GreenMachine]

I set them and pulled them in slighty. once the wheel was back on I tightened them all the way to make sure they were fully secured. I have since checked and doubled checked them and everything is set and tight.

[Kiwi]

:thumbs_up

[rick]

I set them and pulled them in slighty. once the wheel was back on I tightened them all the way to make sure they were fully secured. I have since checked and doubled checked them and everything is set and tight.

I would keep checkin... They go in kinda tough, so unless you overtorqued them with the wheels on you might not have gotten them seated.

As far as the drum removal goes, you can make life a lot easier next time by getting a brake shoe adjuster (basically a little lever) that lets you de-adjust the shoes so you can get the drum off. That's what those little rubber grommets in the backing plate are there for. Take the rubber out, stick the tool in there and loosen the adjuster. Drum comes right off.