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If you don't like the way I drive, stay out of the bushes!
KI6MLU -
Looking at the schematic is pretty interesting, so when cranking do the injectors get power or the O2 sensor heaters and the alternator exciter wire? Any of those shorted to ground and the Jeep no worky. This schematic should help you figure out what is going onLast edited by aw12345; 04-25-13, 10:02 PM.Comment
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Now thats what I'm talking about.....cool....a schematic. Now its all starting to be clear as mud! I guess my next step is disconnecting exciter green with orange stripe.....o2 sensor and any other thing attached to that wire down stream of the ASD and try seeing if there is voltage at coil connector. Now we're getting somewhere. Thank you so much for taking the time to post this schematic. This sounds like a good job for am Saturday. Right now the cj is getting heads and intake put back on so hopefully that will be running by end of day today.Some say that if you listen to the little voices, you are open minded, if you answer them, you belong in a white padded room. I say, have a conversation!!Comment
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If you O2 sensor is TU.
Your SOL.
Got a spare one to try, maybe.
LGHav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....Comment
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I feel your pain. Im going thru the eaxct same issues with a 94 yj right now..... I have tried damn ear everything. I had no spark and come to find out it was a loose ground strap from the firewall to the bellhousing. Now i have strong spark and the jeep will start and run for a few seconds till the fuel rail is empty. Just put a new ac delco pump on it so if you dig a whole make room for a yj as well lol[COLOR="YellowGreen"]"You cant fit 2 fingers in my tailpipe"[/COLOR]Comment
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Yeah...I feel ya and your pain. Thanks to all the mjr's that have posted opinions and suggestions including Russ and the wiring diagram that really explains alot ...im thinking I shouldnt need a hole. I replaced my fuel.pump.and filter and it seemed.to.bring fuel.pressure to specs while cranking it over. Im thinking the original problem that I was fixing when I discovered it wouldn't start is my culprit. I replaced the alternator because the grounding post on the back of the alternator housing where the excited connector is attached was broken. Im thinking this broken ground point may have caused damage to that lil black box on back of alternator. Im assuming thats the exciter connection which will have the drk green with orange stripe wire. I shall have an update tomorrow. Crossing fingers!!!!!!!!Originally posted by dr.dirty View PostLast edited by kirkandsylvia; 04-27-13, 01:19 PM.Some say that if you listen to the little voices, you are open minded, if you answer them, you belong in a white padded room. I say, have a conversation!!Comment
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Is it auto or manual? IIRC the autos had a tone ring on the flexplate that can - not likely, but can - distort if the flexplate cracks. That could stop the CPS from firing the spark.God forgives, rocks don't
-sons of thunderComment
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Its an auto. The cps seems to be doing what its suppose to according to the meter readingsSome say that if you listen to the little voices, you are open minded, if you answer them, you belong in a white padded room. I say, have a conversation!!Comment
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Ok......got some time to check resistance readings based on the schematic. Check one thing at a time on the green w/orange stripe down stream of the ASD. Had 4.6 ohms right off the start. Disconnected everything one at a time and found the down stream o2 sensor when disconnected caused resistance to go to 0 ohms.....or by my meter......OL. With it still disconnected, I tried to see if I get 12 volts at the coil on the green w/orange stripe wire. I get .8 volts......which before I got 0 volts. Im making progress. Any suggestion s?Some say that if you listen to the little voices, you are open minded, if you answer them, you belong in a white padded room. I say, have a conversation!!Comment
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See post #79.
Replace O2 sensor.
Get a Bosch from NAPA.
Install with copper anti-seize compound.
Best of luck,
LGHav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....Comment
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ok.....I understand replacing it with a Napa store bought one.....I guess the question i should have asked.....with that o2 sensor disconnected.....would I get 12 volts to the coil.....or does it need to be connected to complete the circuit since one of the leads on the o2 sensor goes to the computer as a signal wire? I checked the voltage at the ASD on the downstream contact which would be the green w/ orange stripe. I should get 12 volts at that point, but I get .8 volts. I cant see any where else on the wire that would cause it not to see 12 volts unless the return wire from the o2 sensor to the computer has to be connected. Does this make sense?Originally posted by Lumpy Grits View PostSome say that if you listen to the little voices, you are open minded, if you answer them, you belong in a white padded room. I say, have a conversation!!Comment
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I'm no expert or pro, but I've never known a vehicle to not run at all on account of an O2 being bad or even disconnected. Aside from a bad component, my suspicion would be a short or bad ground somewhere in the loom.Originally posted by kirkandsylvia View Postholes = cowbellComment
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Well The Yj im working on had no spark with the O2 disconnected. The issue with the one im working on eneded up being the fuel pressure regulator. up and running now hopefully it passes smog[COLOR="YellowGreen"]"You cant fit 2 fingers in my tailpipe"[/COLOR]Comment
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My Ca. model, CJ-7 goes full rich when the O2 sensor quits. Won't idle below 1500+ rpm.
My SWAG, and in read'n the wiring 'sku' that was posted. To me, IF the O2 sensor quits. So does everydangthing else.
I could well be wrong. But I have seen it happen before on other vic. makes.
Best of luck,
LGHav'n you along, is like loose'n 2 good men....Comment
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