help!!!! 96 Xj wont start

[xtimmax]

[CENTER][/CENTER]

Is the crank position sensor the same as the crank angle sensor? I replaced the sensor thats on the top driverside of the bell housing. When my wife went to auto zone they said there is both.....an angle sensor and a position sensor. Is this true?

That is the same sensor I am thinking of. Any possiblilty it could be a faulty part?

[jpflat2a]

Do you even hear the fuel pump after the key is turned to the on position?
Did you check the fuel pump relay?
What about the ballast resisitor connections for the fuel pump?
Have you checked for any codes? do you know how?
Hit and miss is gonna get darn expensive

[WagoneerRon]

it could b the coil my rig wasnt starting either after i shorter it out it was like $35 at auto zone

[kirkandsylvia]

[LEFT][/LEFT]

Do you even hear the fuel pump after the key is turned to the on position?
Did you check the fuel pump relay?
What about the ballast resisitor connections for the fuel pump?
Have you checked for any codes? do you know how?
Hit and miss is gonna get darn expensive

In answer to the 2 previous posts...I hear the fuel pump for a few seconds when the key is turned to the run position....not to mention....as previously posted at the beginning of this thread.....I tried starting it with starter fluid....which if.it did start for even a few seconds....I would know that it wasnt a fuel related problem. Since it didnt even fire off while using starter fluid....good indication that its not fuel pump or filter related. As far as codes...doesn't bring any up which either indicated the computer was toast....or its a unrelated computer sensor problem. This would lead me to believe it might be a broken wire or a sensor like crank position sensor, or the one under the distributor dust cap. I have one more thing to.look at this weekend before I throw in the towel compltely

[kirkandsylvia]

it could b the coil my rig wasnt starting either after i shorter it out it was like $35 at auto zone

As far as the coil.....changed it.

[Lumpy Grits]

Pull a s/plug and see it its wet or dry.
If 'wet'=no spark
If 'dry'=no fuel
F/injectors need a min PSI to work.
Check the PSI in the fuel rail......
I'm bet'n your f/pump went TU.
LG

[JeepGal]

Have you checked fuel pump itself, or the fuel "sock" inside the tank.? Its probably full of nearly 20 years of dirt and debris. Probably worth replacing both anyway.

[Russ Chung]

Kirk,

I respectfully disagree with Lumpy Grits and Jeep Gal. Your post #10 says that you don't have any spark. Although that does not rule out the possibility that you might also have a fuel system problem, I think you should focus your troubleshooting effort on the spark problem.

Here's a link to a step-by-step troubleshooting procedure for no spark: http://www.2carpros.com/questions/je...rokee-no-spark

Note that Step #8 in the step-by-step troubleshooting procedure refers to the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) Relay. I would pay particular attention to this relay since it provides power to the injectors and to the coil. If the ASD relay is not operating properly, you won't have spark or fuel. You have not mentioned checking this relay in any of your other posts. When the key is on, the ASD relay should be closed, and the ASD input (red/black wire) and the ASD output (dark green/orange wire) should be the same as the battery voltage. The same dark green/orange wire from the ASD output also goes to the alternator, to the fuel injectors, and to the positive primary terminal on the coil. Check to see that battery voltage is present at all of those connections.

Since you've replaced the coil, you can skip steps 9 & 10 of the troubleshooting procedure which tell you how to test your coil. If you have battery voltage at the positive primary terminal of the coil, and still no spark, then check the integrity of the black/gray wire between the negative primary terminal of the coil and the PCM. The PCM uses this wire to alternately open and close the circuit which energizes the primary circuit of the the coil, and thus generate a spark. If this wire is open or shorted, then the primary circuit of the coil won't be energized and the coil won't generate a spark. If that wire is OK (neither open nor shorted) then I would check the pickup coil in the distributor (because you said that you've already replaced the PCM and the Crank Position Sensor and that's the only thing that's left in the ignition timing circuit other than the wires connecting the sensors to the PCM).

If none of those steps work, then I would look in the Yellow Pages for backhoe rentals....

[Lumpy Grits]

Kirk, how long have you had the Jeep?
Have you replaced the FP in the past?
Have you had any history of 'no-start', with this jeep?
Can you 'pull' any 'codes' out?
Is there any sensor, that shuts off fuel/spark etc(like in a crash)with a reset button??
LG

[vwtipeii]

geeze... after reading this I just feel bad... I hope you find the problem. I had something sorta kinda similar... I had several shorts (exposed wires from rubbing) in my wiring harness that kept grounding and frying alternators and the 30 amp fuse with it. You don't have the same problem but I know how frustrating it can be to trouble shoot electrical gremlins...

[kirkandsylvia]

Kirk,

I respectfully disagree with Lumpy Grits and Jeep Gal. Your post #10 says that you don't have any spark. Although that does not rule out the possibility that you might also have a fuel system problem, I think you should focus your troubleshooting effort on the spark problem.

Here's a link to a step-by-step troubleshooting procedure for no spark: http://www.2carpros.com/questions/je...rokee-no-spark

Note that Step #8 in the step-by-step troubleshooting procedure refers to the Automatic Shut Down (ASD) Relay. I would pay particular attention to this relay since it provides power to the injectors and to the coil. If the ASD relay is not operating properly, you won't have spark or fuel. You have not mentioned checking this relay in any of your other posts. When the key is on, the ASD relay should be closed, and the ASD input (red/black wire) and the ASD output (dark green/orange wire) should be the same as the battery voltage. The same dark green/orange wire from the ASD output also goes to the alternator, to the fuel injectors, and to the positive primary terminal on the coil. Check to see that battery voltage is present at all of those connections.

Since you've replaced the coil, you can skip steps 9 & 10 of the troubleshooting procedure which tell you how to test your coil. If you have battery voltage at the positive primary terminal of the coil, and still no spark, then check the integrity of the black/gray wire between the negative primary terminal of the coil and the PCM. The PCM uses this wire to alternately open and close the circuit which energizes the primary circuit of the the coil, and thus generate a spark. If this wire is open or shorted, then the primary circuit of the coil won't be energized and the coil won't generate a spark. If that wire is OK (neither open nor shorted) then I would check the pickup coil in the distributor (because you said that you've already replaced the PCM and the Crank Position Sensor and that's the only thing that's left in the ignition timing circuit other than the wires connecting the sensors to the PCM).

If none of those steps work, then I would look in the Yellow Pages for backhoe rentals....

I'd have to say that is the most detailed info I have received yet. Thank you. The ASD is probably the only thing I have not checked or replaced....probably because I didnt know about it. I am assuming this is under the hood in the relay box on right fender well with the other fuses. I will take a look at that site and focus on that. I am really thinking its not a fuel related issue just for the mere fact that if starter fluid shot down the throttle body wont start it, it confirms that there isnt any spark, which is what I am seeing when I pull the coil wire and turn it over. This is and has been my delema; where to start looking and replacing to get my spark back.

In answer to JeepGal and Lumpy Grits, no I havent replaced fuel pump or sock since I have owned it which is about 8 yrs. Amazingly enough, fuel pumps usually dont last that long, but this one has. I have never had any issues with this jeep other that replacing trans a few times, and rebuilding the top end due to a piston skirt breaking off from one side of wrist pin to the other. She has always been faithfull to me. I dont get any codes when I scan it...which is odd. That is why I kinda thought the ECU was toast. Appparently $100 and change later, that wasnt the issue either.
I keep threatening to bury it in a hole thinkinng it might wake up and smell the coffee and start...but that doesnt seem to work either. So...I will take a look at the ASD relay and cross fingers. Something has to give...and my patience is running out. To all that have posted suggestions, every one of them is appreciated. Thank you, and will keep you posted if I figure this out.

[Lumpy Grits]

Run a lead from Bat+ to Coil+ and try starting.
You have to also check fuel rail PSI. There is a valve on the rail for this and it's also used for bleeding air out...
Best of luck!
LG

[RonR.]

Is it just me...... I'm dying to know what will get this Jeep to start. It's turning into a movie and I've got to know how it ends. Don't leave us hanging. Make sure you give us details of what was the problem.

[6spdYJ]

Kirk, I see the list of changes doesn't include the rotor. Have you tried that? Sounds crazy, but if it's cracked it can seat just far enough away from the cap termials that the spark can't jump the gap. To check the Auto Shutdown Relay, pull out the horn relay and swap them. If the horn works, the ASD is good. If it starts, great, now your horn quit...

[kirkandsylvia]

Kirk, I see the list of changes doesn't include the rotor. Have you tried that? Sounds crazy, but if it's cracked it can seat just far enough away from the cap termials that the spark can't jump the gap. To check the Auto Shutdown Relay, pull out the horn relay and swap them. If the horn works, the ASD is good. If it starts, great, now your horn quit...

I thought I put the rotor replaced in first post....Idk.....I might be loosing my mind.....like my signature says. Anyways......yeah I replaced it. thank you for the tip with horn relay...I will try that this week when I get done with the stupid shifts at work...dumb work.....really cutting into my fun time.