help!!!! 96 Xj wont start

[kirkandsylvia]

Im about ready to give up on Cherokee and try finishing my cj instead. That just needs head gaskets for the 360 in it and that should be it. Getting that one done will sure make feel better

[Lumpy Grits]

I just HATE Auto Zone's crappy stuff.......
Do you have a NAPA you could go to?
I have seen so much AZ stuff that's bad from the git-go.
Disconnect the battery before you install a new dizzy sensor.

LG

[6spdYJ]

The distributor module only controlls fuel injectors - not spark.

[1 Bad F N Z]

This has become a never ending saga, and I can feel for you, all the hate and discontent, and frustration. That's why being the nice and kind type of guy that I am, I'm willing to haul that POS off for you, for free. Nobody needs this kind of frustration. Hell, I won't even charge you for my time. Just trying to help, Kevin.

[kirkandsylvia]

This has become a never ending saga, and I can feel for you, all the hate and discontent, and frustration. That's why being the nice and kind type of guy that I am, I'm willing to haul that POS off for you, for free. Nobody needs this kind of frustration. Hell, I won't even charge you for my time. Just trying to help, Kevin.

Yes I am frustrated....there is no doubt about it, but will have to decline your very generous and unselfish offer to help rid me of my biggest head ache I have ever had. This has become a challenge of all challenges. Ive had time to sleep on it....time to order the parts for my cj.....and have come to the realization that this WILL get fixed...come well or high water. But thank you anyways, and if ever I need to rid my driveway of this POS, you will be the first person I contact. Now....out to do some more testing.:censor:

[HB Jeeper]

I have gone through the threads here on this issue and see that you have been sent a lot of directions and it looks like you have exhausted all avenues. The one thing I have not seen mentioned is checking fuse links. I know you have checked fuses, but between the battery and the engine, typically outside the wire harness, would be a 10 or 12 gauge wire(s). There is 1 for sure, but could be about 3 or 4. some even say fusible link on the side. If you grab one and gently pull (some force but don't yank it), if it is bad it will pull apart. Then just replace it.

The other comments on checking for a short is your next option in my opinion. You seem to have a fuel pump, but no fuel injectors. You have tested spark thoroughly and checked fuses etc. You can pull the wire loom up from behind the cyl head and finger through the wires inside. I say behind the cyl head because that is where they typically rub.

Hope this helps;

[kirkandsylvia]

I have gone through the threads here on this issue and see that you have been sent a lot of directions and it looks like you have exhausted all avenues. The one thing I have not seen mentioned is checking fuse links. I know you have checked fuses, but between the battery and the engine, typically outside the wire harness, would be a 10 or 12 gauge wire(s). There is 1 for sure, but could be about 3 or 4. some even say fusible link on the side. If you grab one and gently pull (some force but don't yank it), if it is bad it will pull apart. Then just replace it.

The other comments on checking for a short is your next option in my opinion. You seem to have a fuel pump, but no fuel injectors. You have tested spark thoroughly and checked fuses etc. You can pull the wire loom up from behind the cyl head and finger through the wires inside. I say behind the cyl head because that is where they typically rub.

Hope this helps;

Well...I was back at it today, decided to replace fuel pump and filter for the giggles of it. Pressure was at 43 while cranking so put a new one in. Its at 49 to 50 while cranking. I checked voltage at the coil connector and its zero. I did diagnostics test on crank position sensor and see 5 volts going to it, and 5 volts pulse out of it. Pocket scanner shows a p0340 code which is a camshaft position sensor which I have already relpaced. So I pulled it and returned it for a new one, installed it, cleared the code and tried starting it again. Still no start. Pocket scanner shows the same code coming back. What is the chances of the new sensor being faulty for a second time? I'm at a loss again. It took me a week to finally go out and mess with this POS again.....I'm done for now. Any new ideas? Oh....I did locate the positive and negative wire coming out of computer going to coil.....and right at computer, I get zero volts going to coil.

[Lumpy Grits]

If that sensor came from the same maker and 'lot' as your last. I say the whole batch is crap.
Bet that sensor is China CRAP ...
Again, go to NAPA.....Get OEM maker.
LG

[kirkandsylvia]

If that sensor came from the same maker and 'lot' as your last. I say the who batch is crap.
Bet that sensor is China CRAP ...
Again, go to NAPA.....Get OEM maker.
LG

Surprisingly enough....its USA made. But since my original purchase was under warranty I thought I'd give it a second try since it didnt cost me anything. I guess my question I should have asked in last post is how do I test that sensor to see if its the problem or something upstream of it? If there is a meter test I can do before I go yanking that one out again, maybe its no related. When I checked the cps with a meter, I got 5 volts to the sensor, 5 volt pulse from the sensor while cranking it and with sensor disconnected, I got infinite ohms on pin b and c. That tells me that the crank shaft position sensor is good. I'm not getting voltage to the coil. I switched the auto shut down relay with the fuel pump relay, and I know the fuel pump relay works after checking for pressure this morning, and i still.dont get voltage. The computer is getting voltage as I can pull codes off of it. What am I missing that would keep from getting voltage to the coil?

[Russ Chung]

....Oh....I did locate the positive and negative wire coming out of computer going to coil.....and right at computer, I get zero volts going to coil.

According to the wiring diagram, the current for the coil comes from the ASD relay (Dk Grn/Org wire), not from the computer (Blk/Gry wire). The computer opens and closes the circuit thru the coil in order to energize the coil and generate a spark so it's OK if you're getting zero volts at the computer (pin A7). And note that the wiring diagram only shows one wire between the computer and the coil; it should be a Blk/Gry wire and it should be connected to the negative primary terminal of the coil.

Try this test to see if the coil is being energized:
1. Disconnect the low-voltage (primary) connector at the coil. With the key on, the pin with the Dk Grn/Org wire should have 12 volts (+) and the other pin (with the Blk/Gry wire) should have zero.
2. Check the continuity between the pin with the Blk/Gry wire and ground. It probably won't have continuity, but if it does, note how much resistance.
3. Crank the engine and see if the resistance changes as the engine turns over. It should go up and down 3 times for every engine revolution.
4. If you are getting 12 volts at the (+) pin and the resistance at the (-) pin changes as the engine rotates, then reconnect the connector and see if you get a spark from the high-voltage (secondary) side of the coil.

[kirkandsylvia]

Ok....checked for positive voltage at connector for coil on the drk green with orange stripe wire....zero volts.....but did notice a resistance reading of 4.0 ohms....checked the other wire in connector at coil which appears to be black with blue stripe and got a resistance reading of .4 ohms to ground with out cranking it over. What bothers me is the resistance on the drk green wire. I shouldn't see resistance on it. Also....started looking at reading on the ASD relay. Pin 1 and 2 appear to be the coil voltage to change the relay status. Pin 3 has 12 volts positive, and pin 4 shows to be normally closed......pin 5 is normally open. Now.....with key on, I get 12 volts on pin 3 and 1. With relay inserted but not quite put in all the way I was able to see the 12 volts through pin 2 which indicated the coil is good on relay, but I dont see 12 volts on pin 5 which should close when voltage is applied to pin 1. I swapped the relay with the fuel pump relay and its the same reading does this seem right?

[aw12345]

The ASD relay has ignition and battery hot to it, the ecm completes the ground circuit when it sees an rpm signal from the crank sensor.
When the ground circuit is complete the asd and fuelpump relay give power to the ignition system and the fuel pump

[kirkandsylvia]

If my meter reading of the crank position sensor is good.....a 5 volt to the sensor....and a pulse 5 volts out of the sensor when cranking....and 5 volts to the camshaft position sensor....and 5 volt pulse out of sensor....where is the fault that is causing no voltage to coil? I'm seriously getting frustrated with this electrical problem and I'm an electrician of 27 yrs.....one would think this would be easy.

[Russ Chung]

Ok....checked for positive voltage at connector for coil on the drk green with orange stripe wire....zero volts.....but did notice a resistance reading of 4.0 ohms....checked the other wire in connector at coil which appears to be black with blue stripe and got a resistance reading of .4 ohms to ground with out cranking it over. What bothers me is the resistance on the drk green wire. I shouldn't see resistance on it. Also....started looking at reading on the ASD relay. Pin 1 and 2 appear to be the coil voltage to change the relay status. Pin 3 has 12 volts positive, and pin 4 shows to be normally closed......pin 5 is normally open. Now.....with key on, I get 12 volts on pin 3 and 1. With relay inserted but not quite put in all the way I was able to see the 12 volts through pin 2 which indicated the coil is good on relay, but I dont see 12 volts on pin 5 which should close when voltage is applied to pin 1. I swapped the relay with the fuel pump relay and its the same reading does this seem right?

No it does not seem right. My wiring diagram doesn't show the pin numbers; it just shows wire colors/markers. The dark green/orange wire (pin 5??) is the one that should be energized when the relay closes and it should feed 12 volts (+) to the coil. Since it does not, AND since you tried to swap it with another relay, it leads me to suspect that something is wrong with the circuit that changes the relay status. The wires that change the relay status are the dark blue (pin 1??) and the dark blue/yellow wire (pin 2??). You said that when the key is on, pin 1 has 12 v (+). Therefore, pin 2 should go to ground and complete the circuit. Unfortunately it's not that simple. The wiring diagram shows that the dark blue/yellow wire doesn't go directly to ground; instead it goes to pin C3 on the computer and I can't tell what the computer does in order to complete the circuit.



Let's try bypassing the ASD relay by connecting a jumper wire directly from the battery to the positive terminal on the coil (the dark green/orange wire). And complete the circuit by connecting a jumper wire from the negative terminal on the coil to the computer (the black/gray wire). If we can get a spark when the engine turns over, then we have to figure out why the ASD relay is not providing current to the coil.

[aw12345]

Just jump pin16 to pin 17 at the asd relay socket that should give 12 volts to the coil if it doesn't then follow the wire from pin 17 to the coil.
Also since you like playing with the volt meter put the positive lead of your meter on pin 18 and the negative lead on pin 20 of the relay socket when cranking you should read around 12 volts on your meter, which means the ecm is trying to turn on the asd relay.
Russ if you can post the wiring diagram as far as which wires go to which pins in the ecm connectors then we can figure this out. I looked in all my old manuals and have very little on Jeeps, mainly Chrysler, Ford and GM stuff