Lockers on a dana 30?

[USMC 0369]

[COLOR="sienna"] I keep hearing "if you shop around" or "if you know where to look". There are millions of online parts sources, hundreds of junkyards...don't get me started on craigslist... How are we to know what's a good value and what's not? I think it would be really worth it to do an online "virtual build".

1. We'd have to use parts available to everyone, at the price anyone can get it for. (Pro-shops get discounts that we average humans can't.)
2. Part source and price need at least a phone number, web site, something people can use, this "build" is a tool for people.
3. Labor not included. Lets assume this is a "do the work yourself" build.
4. It is anticipated that "part quality" is going to be debatable, but I'm sure we can keep it civil...right?
5. Propose building a D44, D60 and hardened D30. The tire size we are working to support are 37's. And a driver that's light on the skinny pedal.
6. Peripheral parts need to be included. If you want to stop 37's using a D30, do you need a brake upgrade? Stuff like that.
7. Often, you can make a solution by putting in a little extra elbow grease. Put up those ideas, and as a group we can decide if that's the route to go or not.

These build prices can be compared to out the door costs of Dynatrac, Currie...etc built axles. If you can get aftermarket axles (complete) cheaper than the price posted, then the price of that axle gets reset and lowered.

We are saying we are doing our own work to we must concede:
a.) Warranty doesn't exist (which means a lot to some people)
b.) You will have to choose part quality vs. cost on your own. (I personally would rather run Superior Axles to USA Alloy for example)

This can be very educational and fun if we let it. What we don't want to do is get butt-hurt over a suggestion because opinions vary on what is necessary or isnt. That's up to the person building the axle. (If they want a truss, or don't think it's necessary for example.)

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[curtis]

What About a HP 9" in the front? It's lighter, Stronger, and more clearance.

[ROBERTK]

well I can give one real world example as to a Great upgrade that will handle 37" tires with a good amount of beating without any common failure.
HPD44 ford center, with HD extra cast rib, and 3" tube.
New 3/8" tubes
New XJ/TJ currie HD brackets with JJ upper mounts.
Yukon Air Locker
Any ratio
Master install kit
RCV AXLES
Lower C gussets
New spicer ball joints and seals
1310 yoke with ubolts
Ruffstuff cover
basically a brand new inner C to inner C, reusing your outer knuckles, brakes and steering, so no steering mod is needed and a off the shelf Currie can be used(I feel the best typ setup out there for non D60 applications).
All setup and ready for any mechanically inclined person with decent tools to swap in.
$4000, with a 200$ refund if inner C's from a D30 are returned.
Yes you can save a few hundred off that if you do a lil of the work, but this is all professionally built by Currie and ready to install.

If you have a YJ or CJ you save about 350$ off that price due to no brackets just purches.

I feel and have seen this exact setup used many times, handle up to 37's with out issue. If excessively pushed hard, regularely, you might need to evaluate for wear, the ball joints and unit bearings every 25-30k miles, but at 300$ a pop for all 4 new and only about 2 hours of work to replace, its just what it is...

Yes a D60 is only about 2K more, but if you just dont need a D60 then no need to spend that 2K. Not to mention you get to keep your stock bolt pattern.

This is what one looks like done without the inners and reg axles.


And what one painted up with a reg cover and 4340 axles, not RCV's, looks like

[ROBERTK]

What About a HP 9" in the front?
It's lighter,(Very little if you compare same strength housing to RJHPD60)
Stronger (Questionable unless you add in the true Hi9 and then the cost goes up quit a bit more then a RJHPD60) ,
and more clearance (Not really, when comparing to a RJHPD60, a lil bit in the sides of the 3rd member area, but not enough to really concern with IMO).

But the 9" is a good option. Only issue is to get a strong 3rd for the front in a high Pinion, you need to think true hi9 and thats expensive bling stuff...

[dirtman13]

Nick, that is a great idea but maybe we should start a new thread so the OP can have his back. Really not fair that it ended up the way it did.

[vwtipeii]

Rob I know you like gummy bears though....

Jeeper Creeper I hope we have not derailed your thread too much Bottom line there are many options... there is no one "right way". Welcome to Jeeping and the circle of information overload and indecision....

[Jeeper Creeper]

I find all this very interesting, I’m amazed on how many options one can do . I love this forum! There are so many people with the knowledge to help one with a jeep question, dilemma, upgrades, etc, etc; . I’ve asked some pretty novice questions on this forum but they have all been answered to my needs. There has always been someone that’s been willing to help out. I think that there are a bunch of good people here willing to help, after all we all have something in common. Hopefully someday I can meet-up with some of you on the trail. Maybe this summer a Rubicon run.

[suicideking]

I find all this very interesting, I’m amazed on how many options one can do .

I'll second that! Great thread even though it turned into the threadjack from hell!

Just keep reading and asking questions until it all becomes clear. You'll have that moment where you suddenly know exactly what you want. Most important though, do it right the first time! Only mistake I've made so far is getting 33's when I should've gotten 35's. If you want 37's, GET EM! If you REALLY want them and get 35's, you won't be at peace until you have what you want.

[igofshn]

Dana 44 rubicon axle is still just a Dana 30 with a bigger diff housing and somewhat better gearing options.

This statementis not even close to being accurate. Axles and R&P are bigger. The center section and axle is what makes a D44. Axle tubes and C's are not what makes the axle. I haear people all the time say you need a true D44, but what is a true D44???

[aw12345]

Same C's on the Rubicon axles, same unit bearings, same stub shafts same axle U joints. The inner shafts are marginally bigger.
The ring and pinion are bigger and stronger. But is still shares some of the short comings of the Dana 30.
There are a bunch of different true Dana 44's but what the masses would refer to is probably something with the thick axle tubes which is nice but they still use skimpy axle shafts. Here is a nice comparison of Dana 30 27 spline shafts and the the shafts I pulled out of a (true) HP Dana 44





I am not seeing a great difference in strength, so in the end what you gain is some strength in the differential and better gearing.
options.
If you can built your own axles and want to run 35's a HP Dana 30 is a somewhat better choice than a Rubicon Dana 44.
It's cheap runs the diff gears the right way, gives better driveshaft clearance. The only drawback is no 5.13 or 5.38 gears

[Materdaddy]

If you can built your own axles and want to run 35's a HP Dana 30 is a somewhat better choice than a Rubicon Dana 44.
It's cheap runs the diff gears the right way, gives better driveshaft clearance. The only drawback is no 5.13 or 5.38 gears

5.13 or 5.38 when running 35s? :omg:

[vwtipeii]

if you are running 35" tires you normally won't need any "5.xx" gears anyway. 4.56 is normally fine with 35's with a 4.0L. If that is the case he should be fine... if he gets bored... he can buy the "lower costing" RCV axle shafts for the HP30 for around 800 or ask Bo for his for only 500

[suicideking]

Same C's on the Rubicon axles, same unit bearings, same stub shafts same axle U joints. The inner shafts are marginally bigger.
The ring and pinion are bigger and stronger. But is still shares some of the short comings of the Dana 30.
There are a bunch of different true Dana 44's but what the masses would refer to is probably something with the thick axle tubes which is nice but they still use skimpy axle shafts. Here is a nice comparison of Dana 30 27 spline shafts and the the shafts I pulled out of a (true) HP Dana 44

I am not seeing a great difference in strength, so in the end what you gain is some strength in the differential and better gearing.
options.
If you can built your own axles and want to run 35's a HP Dana 30 is a somewhat better choice than a Rubicon Dana 44.
It's cheap runs the diff gears the right way, gives better driveshaft clearance. The only drawback is no 5.13 or 5.38 gears

Is it pretty much the same for a JK D44? I just swapped my front D30 for one. I added sleeve, gussets, and diff cover to address strength issues. I know chromoly shafts would probably help, anything else suggested? Probably won't get back back to the axle for a while because I have other stuff on the list...

Plus, I only have 33's now, but don't currently plan to go larger than 35's because it's a DD. I've read that the stock D44 locker has problems with 37's. I may go 37's some day if the stock locker wears out and it's not my DD anymore.

[ROBERTK]

5.38's are fine with a AW-4 and 35" tires, 65mph = 2450-2500RPM. And with 5.38's and 35" tires on a AX-15 manual - only 2400RPMS at 65mph. Thats not bad at all, when you compare a TJ Rubi is at 2150-2200RPMs at 65MPH with stock everything.

The rubi D44 is a low pinion, uses the same axle tube DIAMETER and thickness tubes as the D30. The main reason Not to waste $ going from a HPD30 to TJD44. If you have a low pinion and you found one for Cheap, then maybe its worth it. But I know quite a few jeepers that are beyond qualified to the opinion of, that a HPD30 is better for a TJ then a TJD44 for anything up to and including a 35" tire.

If you go beyond a 35" tire then thats when that TJD44 is going to flex, the gearset driving on coast side, the low pinion (your likely to be on bigger rocks and it hangs much lower), all make it a waste of time & money.

[dirtman13]

if you are running 35" tires you normally won't need any "5.xx" gears anyway. 4.56 is normally fine with 35's with a 4.0L. If that is the case he should be fine... if he gets bored... he can buy the "lower costing" RCV axle shafts for the HP30 for around 800 or ask Bo for his for only 500

Motor size has nothing to do gear ratio. Certain set ups would be better with 5.xx gears. When I had my 35's I was running 4.88's and with my set up it was to tall. I should have had 5.13's. It depends on the transmission.


http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx