Lockers on a dana 30?

[Jeeper Creeper]

I was wondering if it would be worth it to put some ARB's on the front-end of my tj - it has the dana 30 and I'm already running lockers on the rear. I want to upgrade to 37" from 35"s. Or does it make more sense to put a dana 44 up front?
thanks for the feedback....

[USMC 0369]

[COLOR="sienna"]If you're going to 37's... recommend the 44 up front, with or without the locker question. It's possible to beef up your D30, such as the Super 30 kit from Superior Axle & Gear. It upgrades your axles from 27 spline (D30) to 30 spline (D44). There are varying opinions about doing this, but I know a couple wheelers on MJR that have used this kit and run 37's no problem (plus it comes with ARB locker).
The option I would probably do (because I'm broke most of the time) is get a D44. I can't afford Superior shafts as trail spares. (on the other hand, I've never known anyone to need a spare when running the Superior kit.)

I realize this has been no help what-so-ever, but it's early in the morning.[/COLOR]

[vwtipeii]

I am running my stock D30 w CAD, solid axle conversion, Yukon 27 spline chromo shafts and an ARB locker up front w 37's. I have been fine thus far but I don't flog the skinny peddle. I have been going back and forth upgrading between a D60 and pro rock 44. Knowing myself I will probably go to 40's one day so I am leaning towards the 60... but that is 10,000 or more for the front if you throw in RCV's, high steering, big breaks and a PSC hydro steering... but enough about me and back to you....

If you don't flog it...iMHO>>> the HPd30 is plenty strong. 30 spline RCV's, ARB, gusset the C's, sleeve it and you should be fine for a VERY long time... oh yeah... if you have the 4.0 I like 4.88's for the 37's as well.

most of the stress is applied to the rear axle when wheeling (especially climbing) unless you pin a wheel under an rock and keep on the throttle and turn at the same time....

my 2 cents...

[dirtman13]

but that is 10,000 or more for the front if you throw in RCV's, high steering, big breaks and a PSC hydro steering...

You need to do some more shopping around. I'm no where near that for my 60 with 35 spline chomo, ARB, hi-steer, hydro, and Reed knuckles.

[aw12345]

Skeeter likes them special sales lol. Still the Dana 60 route adds up quick, but in the end is well worth it.
Dana 44 rubicon axle is still just a Dana 30 with a bigger diff housing and somewhat better gearing options.
An older Dana 44 will give you a High pinion setup but still the same size axle shaft U joints as a Dana 30 or Rubicon Dana 44.
And yes those U joints will break with big tires. In the end it's your choice running 37's or bigger gets a bit expensive in a hurry.
The easy route would be to stick with your 35" tires for awhile and go enjoy your Jeep on some trails and see where all of that leads you

[Jeeperator]

Skeeter likes them special sales lol. Still the Dana 60 route adds up quick, but in the end is well worth it.
Dana 44 rubicon axle is still just a Dana 30 with a bigger diff housing and somewhat better gearing options.
An older Dana 44 will give you a High pinion setup but still the same size axle shaft U joints as a Dana 30 or Rubicon Dana 44.
And yes those U joints will break with big tires. In the end it's your choice running 37's or bigger gets a bit expensive in a hurry.
The easy route would be to stick with your 35" tires for awhile and go enjoy your Jeep on some trails and see where all of that leads you

What he said^^^^^

[brokenujoint]

I have a dana 30 with the 27 spline warn hub kit with warn outer axles and stock inners. I run an ARB with 4:56's and 35's and I to am light on the throttle. In ten yrs of being a recreational trail rider (mostly Big bear and Truckhaven) I've gone through two outer axle shafts only due to the ujoints failing and screwing up the ears of the shaft.

If I were to start from scratch, I wouldnt of invested all that money in the 30 even though it's held up.

If you're gonna do it, do it right the 1st time

If I could do it again, I'd go with a RockJock III or a dynatrac trail series 44. Costly but God awful peace of mind.

[vwtipeii]

You need to do some more shopping around. I'm no where near that for my 60 with 35 spline chomo, ARB, hi-steer, hydro, and Reed knuckles.

If you can find me one (rock jock or pro rock 60) with all the goodies for significantly less than 10k.... I am all ears! RCV's alone are $2,000, PSC steering pump with hydro assist is close to $1,000. Complete Axle with ARB, breaks and locking hubs around $7,000 with high steer too. 10% tax in CA is $1,000 on that amount. i am still a newbe though so feel free to pass on the knowledge.

[Tumbleweed13]

RCV's alone are $2,000,.

My RCV's were just under a grand to my door. Where do you shop, Brett?

Do your online shopping and you can save alot, if you look hard enough.

[dirtman13]

If you can find me one (rock jock or pro rock 60) with all the goodies for significantly less than 10k.... I am all ears! RCV's alone are $2,000, PSC steering pump with hydro assist is close to $1,000. Complete Axle with ARB, breaks and locking hubs around $7,000 with high steer too. 10% tax in CA is $1,000 on that amount. i am still a newbe though so feel free to pass on the knowledge.

I must ask. Why must it be a Rock Jock? I would love to have 2 Rock Jocks under my Jeep but I got the same strength for a 3rd of the cost. Hell, my 14 bolt was $300 plus a locker and gears. I'm still using the stock axle shafts. You could get a front 60 for about $1000 and an ARB for $700 and run 37's or 40's no problem. Don't even really need to change the knuckle but I did.

As for the hydro. Shop around. You can do better then $1000.

I'm not saying you need that much. There are plenty of people are running 37's on dana 44's. Nothing wrong with that.
:2:

[ROBERTK]

I must ask. Why must it be a Rock Jock? I would love to have 2 Rock Jocks under my Jeep but I got the same strength for a 3rd of the cost. Hell, my 14 bolt was $300 plus a locker and gears. I'm still using the stock axle shafts. You could get a front 60 for about $1000 and an ARB for $700 and run 37's or 40's no problem. Don't even really need to change the knuckle but I did.

As for the hydro. Shop around. You can do better then $1000.

I'm not saying you need that much. There are plenty of people are running 37's on dana 44's. Nothing wrong with that.
:2:

You bring up the ever so common argument. A D60 is only a grand then add a arb and your set. Not even close.
you going to reuse the 30 spline outers?
you going to reuse the inner shafts?
you going to keep some stock weak 30sp hubs?
you going to keep the stock carrier?
you going to keep the stock gear ratio?
you going to keep the stock cover?
you going to keep the kingpins as is and not rebuild?
you going to keep all the hub bearings as is and not replace with new while in there?
you going to reuse all the diff bearings?
you going to reuse the 1350 yoke? SO a new drive shaft is needed?
you going to adapt the jeep to the stock mounts on the axle housing?

ok I am going to assume a -No- to all the above, correct?

Now do the math.
And how much more is it to start with a housing that has better oiling, stronger, rotated so a stock cover is perfectly fine, and all new? about the same as that 1000$ stock D60 that you just threw away 75% of.

Oh and where are you going to find a arb for 700? More like 1100$

I have this convo with about 4 people a week. They call and say I am just picking up a d60 from a bla bla ford... And then this opens thier eyes to a better route with all new and better products.

I will say it is a HUGE cost effective idea, to get all stock knuckles out on a D60 ford to use on a new RJIII housing.

All in all it can be done for about 5K, then add in a surplus center ram and hoses etc for 200$ and a PSC pump kit at 300, and tap your box. But this is for a 8lug setup.

RCV's are over kill in a D60, for less then 42" tires IMO.

As for getting a set of RCVs for a D60 for a grand, NEVER going to happen, not even used. Expect to pay 1550-1800.

Now that 14B rear... Best thing since sliced cheese... A shave kit and grizzly and disc kit (about 1000$) and the full axle at about 200-300, and your good to go with just some purches welded on...

[dirtman13]

You bring up the ever so common argument. [COLOR="red"]Wasn’t an argument. It was a question[/COLOR] A D60 is only a grand then add a arb and your set. Not even close.
you going to reuse the 30 spline outers?
[COLOR="red"]It’s an option yes.[/COLOR]
you going to reuse the inner shafts?
[COLOR="red"]It’s an option yes[/COLOR]
you going to keep some stock weak 30sp hubs?
[COLOR="red"]It’s an option yes[/COLOR]
you going to keep the stock carrier?
[COLOR="red"]I said ARB[/COLOR]
you going to keep the stock gear ratio?
[COLOR="red"]It’s an option yes[/COLOR]
you going to keep the stock cover?
[COLOR="red"]Sorry. Add $60
[/COLOR]you going to keep the kingpins as is and not rebuild?
[COLOR="red"]Depends on the condition.[/COLOR]
you going to keep all the hub bearings as is and not replace with new while in there?
[COLOR="red"]More than likely will replace. $100 [/COLOR]
you going to reuse all the diff bearings?
[COLOR="red"]Probably not $150[/COLOR]
you going to reuse the 1350 yoke? SO a new drive shaft is needed?
[COLOR="red"]Might. Yes[/COLOR]
you going to adapt the jeep to the stock mounts on the axle housing?
[COLOR="red"]Really?? I can fab my parts[/COLOR]

ok I am going to assume a -No- to all the above, correct?
[COLOR="red"]You assume wrong. Still a 3rd of the cost as mentioned.[/COLOR]

Now do the math.
And how much more is it to start with a housing that has better oiling, stronger, rotated so a stock cover is perfectly fine, and all new? about the same as that 1000$ stock D60 that you just threw away 75% of.
[COLOR="red"]Not sure. I haven’t needed it [/COLOR]
Oh and where are you going to find a arb for 700? More like 1100$
[COLOR="red"]Don’t know what to say. I paid $700[/COLOR]
I have this convo with about 4 people a week. They call and say I am just picking up a d60 from a bla bla ford... And then this opens thier eyes to a better route with all new and better products.
[COLOR="red"]Good for them. I’m happy with the route I went and saved a ton of money.[/COLOR]

I will say it is a HUGE cost effective idea, to get all stock knuckles out on a D60 ford to use on a new RJIII housing.
[COLOR="red"]Sounds like a great option for someone.[/COLOR]

All in all it can be done for about 5K, then add in a surplus center ram and hoses etc for 200$ and a PSC pump kit at 300, and tap your box. But this is for a 8lug setup.
[COLOR="red"]What's wrong with 8 lug?[/COLOR]

[Jeeperator]

Haha Rockwells FTW! stronger and probably cheaper too than a done up 60. 50"+ tires too lol. Make sure you dont forget to do 4 wheel steer too.

[vwtipeii]

This is getting juicy! i think we should have a competition... lets see who can build me the best Dana 60 front axle for my YJ (installed) for the most "reasonable" price. Who ever wins will get a steak dinner, wine and gummy bears (2 bags) on me

[ROBERTK]

This is getting juicy! i think we should have a competition... lets see who can build me the best Dana 60 front axle for my YJ (installed) for the most "reasonable" price. Who ever wins will get a steak dinner, wine and gummy bears (2 bags) on me

no thanks. I dont do half assed D60 builds, stock inners and 30 spline outers and old used bearings and ujoints, and stock hubs, etc.. Not worth my time, or yours really... Not to mention you will have to swap out your bling rims for new ones, adding about 600-1000$.