Originally posted by daniel_buck
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hit oilpan pretty good, anything I should be checking?
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I dont know if I hit my oil pan pretty hard of if the guy i got it from hit it, but I replaced the oil pan & added a Warn skid. No chances here when it comes to oil & pans ! Thats my 2 cents worth ...
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Yes, that's what attracts me about the steel skids, the price! But I do like Blaine's handy work, and aluminum is coolWe'll see how nice uncle sam is to me, if he's real nice I'll go aluminum
The only thing about the UCF skid that seems like it would be annoying is the hole for the engine oil drain plug. I wonder how messy does changing the oil get with only this little hole? The savvy skid has a much larger plate that can be easilly removed with alot more access to the bolt. Curtis, do you have any thoughts on this, and oil changes?Last edited by daniel_buck; 01-30-12, 11:40 PM.
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Don't get me wrong, I think Savvy is the best product by far that you can buy, if it's whats suits your needs. But he said he did not want to change his suspension. So if he is going to stay with short arms, then maybe weight is not a big concern. I think he has some other options. I was looking at the steel UCF skid at half the price.Last edited by curtis; 01-30-12, 09:16 PM.
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The savvy skid wont limit you on suspension mods any more than the ucf skid. Both are good skids but the weight difference and the stand alone steel cross members are what sold me. I can pull bottom and side wings off and trans stays put on the crossmember. UCF makes a aluminum skid also but I have read somewhere problems with bending on a hard hits because there is no steel reinforcment.The savvy 6061 aluminum is pretty tough, hit my savvy tank skid on rock and it barely scratched it. I paid considerably less than you can get a ucf ultra high clearance TC and engine skid and accessories(like lowpro mount, body lift, engine lift) shiped for.
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Originally posted by curtis View PostThen I would say go with something like the UCF. I think the Savvy might be a little over build for what you want to do.
Stick that in first on a weekend and then install the rest and deal with exhaust fitting the next. For aluminum stuff the savvy setup is as good as it gets plus Gerald is a heck of a stand up guy
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Then I would say go with something like the UCF. I think the Savvy might be a little over build for what you want to do.
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The only thing else I want to do with the suspension is put JJs up front, and get the shock mounts moved towards the wheels more, or something that gets them out of the way a bit. I don't have any plans to go long arms or anything like that. I've put enough money into the jeep, and it's gotten me through every trail so far!
er.... at least that's the plan. haha
I don't want to go any taller or any larger on the tires (will have trouble fitting in garages) so I don't think I'll be messing with the suspension much more.
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I would go with the UCF. It looks like what I did, and mine has pasted the test so far. I think you need too think about your suspension and where you are going with the jeep before you commit to the Savvy skid.
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yea, that's what I'm kinda holding out for, a transfer case/engine skid, hopefully Uncle Sam is nice to me in a few weeks
I'm looking at either the Savvy, or the UCF. Probably go with Savvy. I'll worry about the gas tank skid later, it's not causing any problems, just gets hit alot.
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Daniel the way you are progressing in your offroad adventures. I would think about the best way for you to put a skidplate for both the engine and trans that gives you better clearance and protection. Do it right the frist time and don't do it twice. My:2:
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if it can be done in steps, that's great! After going through that big thread on JF, it seems like quite a few people had to cut and make fit the skid due to exhaust and such, even with stock exhaust.
I do have a 1.25" body lift, but I probably don't have the motormount lift that the kit requires, I just have the regular JKS motormount lift.
Thanks for the breakdown on the rear main seal! I may do that quick protection on the pan in the mean time, just incase I hit it again.
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The rear main is easy. Make sure you get the rear main kit - it's a lot cheaper than getting the pan kit and the rear seal. In a nutshell, drop the pan, pull the rear main cap, drive one end of the rear main in with a punch and pull it out from the other side. Clean out the seal seat with some carb cleaner and slide the new seal in place. Just be sure you have the upper piece facing the same way the original came out. The old way to help the seal was to slightly offset the seal, just push one side in about 1/4" so the mating surfaces are contained within the block and cap - instead of having the joints of the seal matching the joints of the mains. Put just a dot of RTV at the seal joints and put it all back together. Torque it down and put the pan back on.
That Savvy looks like a great option. Another fast and easy means of protection is to rough up the bottom of the pan with a sanding disc and glue a 3/16"-1/4" thick piece of plate onto the bottom with RTV. There's a pretty good description on offroaders.com.
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Originally posted by aw12345 View PostLast edited by Jeeperator; 01-30-12, 06:17 AM.
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