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hit oilpan pretty good, anything I should be checking?
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perfect, as soon as I have time to adjust the rear control arms, I'll give that a shot!
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Originally posted by daniel_buck View Post1/4" aluminum and the lowpro mount (I already had body lift and motormount lift).
I'll try and check for the driveshaft binding. Just jack the body up high enough to get the rear tires off the ground and uncompress the suspension, then see if I can free-rotate the tires? If indeed there is binding, what is the solution? Limit straps? This wasn't something I had thought about or read anyone having problems with. Hopefully I don't have any problemsI already have a tomwood double cardian driveshaft on the rear.
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1/4" aluminum and the lowpro mount (I already had body lift and motormount lift).
I'll try and check for the driveshaft binding. Just jack the body up high enough to get the rear tires off the ground and uncompress the suspension, then see if I can free-rotate the tires? If indeed there is binding, what is the solution? Limit straps? This wasn't something I had thought about or read anyone having problems with. Hopefully I don't have any problemsI already have a tomwood double cardian driveshaft on the rear.
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One thing you really want to check before you take it down the trail again is that the rear driveshaft doesn't bind at full droop.
Jeep rear end of the ground, rear axle hanging from the shocks (with shocks fully extended). Doing a bellyup can push the driveshaft past it's maximum clearance at full droop and cause it to bind, which is not a good thing
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Steel or aluminum? 1/4" or 3/16" Did you get the lowpro mount? if not your tc will be pushed up into the body more and your driveshaft angle will definatly change compared to the stock skid. What did you end up paying?
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I finally got the UCF skid plate in place of the factory transfer case skid, I like the extra clearance!! 18 inches at the lowest point on the skid. I'll get the engine skid bolted up later this week probably. It should be quick and easy i think. Just need to adjust the Novak so that it will get into 4lo, and need to adjust the rear control arms to fix the rear pinion angle now, it got alot steeper! haha
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Daniel, here is what i have on my XJ, not sure if you looked at it after our run. Its solid as hell and priced well for the quality. Install is also very easy. Would fit your jeep.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12022_904_07.htm
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Originally posted by Jeeperator View PostWont fit an 06 rubi. 1997 to 2003 are different from 2004-2006. I guess you could redrill the pan though.I think thats what art did on his yellow Jeep. The price I am selling it and the extras for dont understand why it isn't gone allready lol.
I did this on an old Terra flatbelly pan that I bought for cheap
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Wont fit an 06 rubi. 1997 to 2003 are different from 2004-2006. I guess you could redrill the pan though.I think thats what art did on his yellow Jeep. The price I am selling it and the extras for dont understand why it isn't gone allready lol.
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Daniel check out Beau's skid he has for sale in (parts for sale). That might be another way to go.
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Savvy requires a 1.25" body lift and it can only use the savvy mml beacause it what the front crossmember bolts too. I just sold my currie 1" body lift.
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Originally posted by curtis View PostDon't get me wrong, I think Savvy is the best product by far that you can buy, if it's whats suits your needs. But he said he did not want to change his suspension. So if he is going to stay with short arms, then maybe weight is not a big concern. I think he has some other options. I was looking at the steel UCF skid at half the price.
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