Welding with Batteries on the Trail

[Materdaddy]

Yep I realized that and realized I'd get zinged right after I posted it. Oh well.

Didn't mean a slam. Just wanted to point out that the two gauges mentioned were very different. As 2 black tutors pointed out, I didn't think something as heavy as 4/0 would be necessary either, I don't think the batteries themselves would be able to provide enough amperage to overload cable in the 1-1/0 range, could they?

[2blk2drs]

So does this kill the batteries? Or does the rod have enough resistance to act as a load and not a short?

Just trying to get around buying a proper welder for now

[Materdaddy]

Well, I'm not sure how the CCA relates to actual amperage running through the wire because my battery is rated at 710 cca... that's way more current than even 4/0 is rated for. Which makes me have the same question as 2 black tutors again.

How does CCA relate to actual amperage?

[2blk2drs]

Curious since the stock batt cables are 4guage, not four ought

[Lumpy Grits]

YES, it's a hell of a drain on the batteries. That's why you don't run them all the why down.
Remember that you are only welding for short periods of time, so the "load" is not to bad on the cables and why I use 4/0.
As the battery "drains" you will be switching to smaller dia. rods to in effect bring the amps back up for a workable weld, if you know what I mean.
YMMV, BUT, being able to "trail-weld" has saved my "tail feathers" a few times.
Respectfully,
LG

[MrBash]

Getting ready to make the necessary purchase to be better prepared for trail welding with batteries.

Heading over to the store soon but before I go thought I would post this.

LOts of greast info.

Which stinger should I get?

http://www.cameronwelding.com//index...pper&Itemid=51

Thinking about getting the HT 25.

And how about the ground clamps. Is the magnetic a good idea?
http://www.cameronwelding.com//index...pper&Itemid=51

And last...the cable, which one? I would like to stick with #4 cable due to cost. Will that do the job?
http://www.cameronwelding.com//index...pper&Itemid=51

[Lumpy Grits]

I'm using 20' of 4/0 arc welding cable with top of the line battery clamps at both ends(don't recall who made them).
Get GOOD gloves, wire brush, glasses/face shield and "pick" hammer too.
Respectfully,
LG

[2blk2drs]

MrBash:

The electrode holder looks to be sufficient. As far as the Mag grounds, they are a "nice to have" But not as versatile as a regular clamp.

[MrBash]

MrBash:

The electrode holder looks to be sufficient. As far as the Mag grounds, they are a "nice to have" But not as versatile as a regular clamp.

Got It!

Regular clamps it is.

As far as the wqire goes, 4/0 wire is waaaaaay to expensive and 1/0 wire will do the job considering we're working with 36 volts.

However, that damn wire is $100 for 25'.

How about #4 wire, will it do the job?

[Old Fart]

Got It!

Regular clamps it is.

As far as the wqire goes, 4/0 wire is waaaaaay to expensive and 1/0 wire will do the job considering we're working with 36 volts.

However, that damn wire is $100 for 25'.

How about #4 wire, will it do the job?

Conductors are sized by amps, not volts. Compare the cross sectional area of #4, #1/0 and #4/0 - you'll see why folks are running #4/0 - especially considering the voltage drop at that ampere rating over the distance

Better to pay for the heavier conductor now, than find out the #4 won't do what you want/need.....

I need to start carrying my DC clamp on ammeter in the rig - I'd be curious to see what the amp reading is on "short circuit" (striking the arc)

[MrBash]

Conductors are sized by amps, not volts. Compare the cross sectional area of #4, #1/0 and #4/0 - you'll see why folks are running #4/0 - especially considering the voltage drop at that ampere rating over the distance

Better to pay for the heavier conductor now, than find out the #4 won't do what you want/need.....

I need to start carrying my DC clamp on ammeter in the rig - I'd be curious to see what the amp reading is on "short circuit" (striking the arc)

Got It!

[Lumpy Grits]

Volts don't mean much.
Amps is where-it's-at.
When you first strike the arc that will be you highest amp reading.
CRY one time and buy the best(4/0).
4/0 will "coil" up much better than the others for storage, BTW.
Respectfully,
LG

[MrBash]

Volts don't mean much.
Amps is where-it's-at.
When you first strike the arc that will be you highest amp reading.
CRY one time and buy the best(4/0).
4/0 will "coil" up much better than the others for storage, BTW.
Respectfully,
LG

Understood. I will make the investment

[aw12345]

20 feet off cable will give you 2, 10 feet leads which should be adequate if you move the batteries from the Jeep. Don't go cheap on the ground clamp and as LG said find some good battery clamps those 2 things are the biggest thing resistance wise

[Ol Man]

I have done some trail welding. I carry a few different types of battery cables so I can connect either post or screw on terminals. I have a Lincoln rod holder and ground clamp from Home Depot. I carry my rod in a tube of PVC with a cemented cap on one end and non-cemented (duh!) on the other. I also have a welding goggle for space reasons.

Any for info if you should break a leaf spring, you can weld it and use hose clamps and wheel for a number of days.....ask me how I know.