Welding with Batteries on the Trail

[Lumpy Grits]

I use 20' of # 4/0 arcwelding wire that double as jumper cables.
I do carry 7018(aka "mud-rod")rods in as many dias. as I can find and keep them in a sealed tube of PVC. along with the normal welding stuff(gloves, glasses etc.).
Have made MANY trail fixs over the years.
I do remove the battery when welding and you can hook up extra batts. for longer welds.
Respectfully,
LG

[Jerry Bransford]

So 7018 is a good all-around trail rod? I'm a MIG guy so I don't know stick at all yet but I'm going to pick up what I need for emergency trail repairs and practice with it ahead of time in the garage. I was originally thinking 6011 rods but if 7018 is a better choice for dirty welds, that's what I'll go with.

[aw12345]

Jerry it is just the other way around. 6011 for dirty metal. 7018 is just a very good all around welding rod that can be used with practice in any position. Since rust is not that big a deal here 7018 would be just fine.

[Lumpy Grits]

FWIW: I have had better looking welds with 7018(we are using D.C. remember)than 6011.
BUT, in no way can I be called a welder, I can get two chunks on metal to stay together most of the time
Respectfully,
LG

[Jerry Bransford]

Good information aw12345 & Lumpy, thanks. I was leaning towards 6011 from all the stick reading I've been doing since I started doing MIG 3-4 years ago but 7018 sounds good too. Maybe I'll just get a tube of each going.

I needed some welding done on my Jeep during last year's Pumpkin Eater run at Hi-Desert Roundup so I've been anxious to be a little more self-sufficient welding-wise after that.

[Lumpy Grits]

Jerry, I would highly recommend that you have some custom #4/0 arc-welding wire jumper cables made up.
Run of the mill jumper cables do NOT work well for this, BTDT!
Remember to keep the batteries away(down wind)from ALL WELDING, do to Hydr. gas "give-off" if you are using "wet cell" type batteries.
Try both types of rods we have talked about and see what works for you.
Respectfully,
LG

[aw12345]

The keeping batteries away from the sparks is excellent advice, them things do explode when the gas gets ignited. Clearing the area you weld on from anything flammable is not a bad idea either, Kinda like welding in the forest here in summer, is pretty much a recipe for disaster. Very good way to start a nasty thermal event.

[miguelitojeep97]

Well ever since my incident on the Rubicon in 08 I have been nervous about ripping factory brackets off my jeep:

notice rear wheel sticking out, not good
luckily a guy a camp had a ready welder on his truck to get me patched up.



I think so far I have torn: 3-4 shock mounts, front lower CA bracket and rear upper CA/trac bar bracket off oh plus a factory motor mount. Luckily after all those time, I finally put together my ghetto-battery-welder set up. I managed to get some decent welds with my CAST motor mount brackets and got me off the trail and around town for a week or so. Welds held WAY better than I ever thought. I even have a cheapo harbor freight welding mask I bring.

Even if you are not a pro welder (I am not by any means) if you have the tools, there might be someone on the same trail that does.

[Jerry Bransford]

Jerry, I would highly recommend that you have some custom #4/0 arc-welding wire jumper cables made up.
Run of the mill jumper cables do NOT work well for this, BTDT!
Remember to keep the batteries away(down wind)from ALL WELDING, do to Hydr. gas "give-off" if you are using "wet cell" type batteries.
Try both types of rods we have talked about and see what works for you.
Respectfully,
LG

I hear you LG, thanks, and I do carry a premium all-stranded copper 4 gauge jumper cable for reasons like that. I gave up carrying cheap Chinese import jumper cables years ago.

[Materdaddy]

I hear you LG, thanks, and I do carry a premium all-stranded copper 4 gauge jumper cable for reasons like that. I gave up carrying cheap Chinese import jumper cables years ago.

4/0 gauge is very different from 4 gauge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America...AWG_wire_sizes

[Lumpy Grits]

I hear you LG, thanks, and I do carry a premium all-stranded copper 4 gauge jumper cable for reasons like that. I gave up carrying cheap Chinese import jumper cables years ago.

4/0 and 4 ga.are NOT the same or even close..........
Respectfully,
LG

[2blk2drs]

But it 4/0 really neccesary? We used to run 2/0 on the Engine driven stick welder, but they were 50' leads. Wouldnt a cable set in the 1 - 1/0 range be sufficient?

[Jerry Bransford]

4/0 gauge is very different from 4 gauge.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/America...AWG_wire_sizes

Yep I realized that and realized I'd get zinged right after I posted it. Oh well.

[Lumpy Grits]

I use the 4/0 because of the amps.
When battery welding the ONLY way to controll your amps is with the rods dia. Your cables must be able to handle the load.
Remember that this is D.C. welding and the load is constant.
I'm far from being a "pro" with this. It's just what I have "first hand" learned/done myownself is all.
Respectfully,
LG

[GP4Play]

Great stuff here guys,I for 1 didn't know the dif, from 4 and 4/0 gauge wire.Thanks for the posts all.