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What in the hell is that NOISE???

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  • #61
    Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
    On your bushings, here is where the rub is they are not designed to flex a lot. Rubicon express has the same problem with their super flex arms same goes for JKS or Terra flex adjustable arms none are desingend to flex a lot the arms are rigid so the flex and movement of the axle gets taken up by the bushings and Urethane bushings are not designed to flex that much, so they will destroy them self fairly shortly.
    TJ's tend to flex more in the front which is whythose bushings failed. Permanent fix find or make control arms with Johny joint at least on one side of the control arm. Curry or Rubicon express will sell you the arms or the parts to make them. You will also like the extra flex you will get. Anything else makes the suspension bind when wheeling in extreme terain.
    For a check try to remove the springs and try to tip the axle at one side or the other takes a lot of force since the rigid arms and bushings bind everything up. Darn I wrote a book here
    That makes sense and would explain the damage as it seems like the edge of the LCA is cutting into the lip. I'm pretty sure that Full Traction makes them so hopefully I can just buy the joint and install it instead of the bushing. Do you think it would work if I were to keep the bushing at the frame and replace the bushing at the axle with the johnny joint or will the same thing happen?

    EDIT - It looks like FullTraction only has the johhny joints for the long arm. I wonder one of the other company's would work?
    Last edited by Schmo; 08-03-08, 08:33 PM.
    That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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    • #62
      I just ordered a set of JKS adjustable arms from Offroad Werks.

      You can check them out tomorrow.

      I think both of us made bad decisions in our lift kit choices.
      Ford Raptor 6.2l

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      • #63
        A johny joint on one end of the control arm will help a lot. To truly eliminate it use control arms with Johny joints on both ends. It just gets expensive they do not give those control arms away but for hard wheeling its the way to go outside of a good long arm lift.

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        • #64
          Originally posted by aw12345 View Post
          The ball joints hold the spindle to the front axle its what allows the wheels to turn left to right
          I don't think we checked them . . . somebody will have to show me what they're all about and how to check em.
          Last edited by Schmo; 08-03-08, 08:56 PM.
          That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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          • #65
            google these parts and you will get a better understand of what they are Joe.

            Ford Raptor 6.2l

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            • #66
              Damn, I had no idea that kit didn't have Johnny joints. Maybe you can put RE uppers on there. They're adjustable and have Johhny Joints on the frame mount end.
              [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
              [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
              http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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              • #67
                Originally posted by Lawrence View Post
                I stayed at a Holiday Inn recently but it doesn't seem to help.
                Maybe a Motel 6?
                Originally posted by Lawrence View Post
                Yes... I have a Chrysler product.
                I've never been a big fan but this Jeep is changing my mind...
                [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                  Damn, I had no idea that kit didn't have Johnny joints. Maybe you can put RE uppers on there. They're adjustable and have Johhny Joints on the frame mount end.
                  I've actually got the RE UCA in the rear . . . stock UCA in the front. It's the LCA's that are FT and have the poly bushings. I saw these from Currie and they seem to be universal so maybe I'll see if these would work in my LCA's.

                  That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                  • #69
                    Originally posted by Schmo View Post
                    I've actually got the RE UCA in the rear . . . stock UCA in the front. It's the LCA's that are FT and have the poly bushings. I saw these from Currie and they seem to be universal so maybe I'll see if these would work in my LCA's.

                    those are weld ons. I think they runabout 35 a piece or something
                    Ford Raptor 6.2l

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                    • #70
                      Originally posted by Tomb Raider 940 View Post
                      those are weld ons. I think they runabout 35 a piece or something
                      Yup! Them will work.
                      [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
                      [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
                      http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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                      • #71
                        Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                        Yup! Them will work.
                        yeah was actually looking at those a while back. I was thinking of getting these and cutting off my polys, and get these welded on. But after all is done would cost about the same as buying them new.
                        Ford Raptor 6.2l

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                        • #72
                          Bummer . . . Well I've already ordered two new sets of bushings so hopefully they'll buy me some time. I wonder if this has anything to do with the noise I'm hearing or if it's unrelated:dunno:
                          That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                          • #73
                            Got the new bushings for the front LCAs. . . was hoping it was just the ones at the frame that were bad, but ordered two sets just in case . . . lucky I did as the axle side were torn as well but the lip hadn't ripped off completely like the others. Hopefully these hold up, but I think new LCA's will be in my future. Really like the JKS, but need to do some checking around to see the best option for my Jeep.

                            The noise persists . . . I wonder if something is loose under the battery as that seems to be the area that the noise is coming from and I checked all the other likely culprits, that I could think of:dunno:
                            That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                            • #74
                              Gotta love that warranty!!!

                              Well I just picked up the Jeep from the dealership. They'd fixed the oil leak that my buddy thought was coming from the rear main about 2-3 months ago stating that the bolts on the oil pan had come loose and just needed to be tightened...well that seemed to do the trick until a couple of weeks ago . . . I noticed that some of the bolts on the oil pan were fairly loose so I asked them to check both the gasket and rear main. Turns out the rear main was bad and while they were at it they threw on a new oil pan gasket as well. I did notice that they dented my oil pan a tiny bit . . . looks like they whacked the corner with a deadblow hammer or something to break the seal . . . nothing major just not smooth like the rest of the surface.

                              Here's the weird part and I know it's aweful soon to say and I don't want to jinx myself, but the clunking noise that I've been hearing for a while and trying to track down, seems to be gone. I've got a really rough street that always makes it clunk and I went thru it 3 times and the rest of the Jeep rattles (door, windows, etc) but it's not making the clunking noise. Crossing my fingers that this keeps up.

                              Got my engine skid and now that the oil leak is addressed I'll be throwing it on. And I'll be getting a new set of LCAs for the front as those bushings that I just replaced a month ago are already torn. I'm pretty well set on the Currie's with the JJ's on both ends.


                              New Rear Main Seal + Oil Pan Gasket + Windshield Seal + Door Limit Strap + Oil + Filter + Wiper Blades = 24 dollars. Jeep honoring the factory waranty = PRICELESS
                              That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                              • #75
                                the curry control arms will take care of the bushing problem have had a set of used ones on the front for close to 2 years wheeled the snot out of them and still doing fine. The clunck could have been play on the trust part of the main bearing, if so is your Jeep and automatic?

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