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What in the hell is that NOISE???

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  • #46
    The saga continues . . . So Russ dropped by and we checked out the wheel assembly . . . I've got no play in the wheel when it's off the ground so the bearings should be good and I couldn't get the yoke to wiggle hardly at all and even when I'd noticed the play, it was just a tiny bit . . .maybe 1/64" to 1/128", so we decided to skip the U-Joint replacement and looked into other things that might cause the noise which has been getting worse and worse. We noticed that the bushings on the front control arms at the frame are shot. What a bummer seeing that I just got the lift a few months ago. We went ahead and put in a new set of spark plugs, seeing that I just hit 30K . . . I can actually notice that the Jeep idles smoother now . . . I think I might replace these at 20K vs 30K seeing the difference I feel. Ordered 2 sets of bushings, so I'd have some extras and while I was at it, I finally pulled the trigger on an engine skid. I'd gone back and forth between the SkidRow Engine and the Nth Oil Skid, but after hearing about someones trans housing cracking I figured I just go with the max protection. So more wreching is in my future . . . but I'll feel better running John Bull having the extra protection.

    So who's in for a camping trip up in BB in the next coulpe of weeks?
    Last edited by Schmo; 08-03-08, 05:07 PM.
    That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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    • #47
      Originally posted by Schmo View Post
      The saga continues . . . So Russ dropped by and we checked out the wheel assembly . . . I've got no play in the wheel when it's off the ground so the bearings should be good and I couldn't get the yoke to wiggle hardly at all and even when I'd noticed the play, it was just a tiny bit . . .maybe 1/64" to 1/128", so we decided to skip the U-Joint replacement and looked into other things that might cause the noise which has been getting worse and worse. We noticed that the bushings on the front control arms at the frame are shot. What a bummer seeing that I just got the lift a few months ago. We went ahead and put in a new set of spark plugs, seeing that I just hit 30K . . . I can actually notice that the Jeep idles smoother now . . . I think I might replace these at 20K vs 30K seeing the difference I feel. Ordered 2 sets of bushings, so I'd have some extras and while I was at it, I finally pulled the trigger on an engine skid. I'd gone back and forth between the SkidRow Engine and the Nth Oil Skid, but after hearing about someones trans housing cracking I figured I just go with the max protection. So more wreching is in my future . . . but I'll feel better running John Bull having the extra protection.

      So who's in for a camping trip up in BB in the next coulpe of weeks?
      Joe,
      Don't spend all that money on spark plugs. The new engines don't require plugs for at least 60,000 miles. Save your money for the body armor. You should go talk to the person that installed that lift and get those bushings replaced no charge. That ain't right them wearing out that fast.
      [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
      [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
      http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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      • #48
        Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
        Joe,
        Don't spend all that money on spark plugs. The new engines don't require plugs for at least 60,000 miles.
        Kurt,

        I don't know if I agree with you on that one. My plugs were shot at 30K, when I pulled them out and checked the gap they were at 0.065, yikes. Since they are fairly cheap, I put in new plugs and the TJ ran much smoother.
        [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Lawrence View Post
          Kurt,

          I don't know if I agree with you on that one. My plugs were shot at 30K, when I pulled them out and checked the gap they were at 0.065, yikes. Since they are fairly cheap, I put in new plugs and the TJ ran much smoother.
          OK, I'll bite. Why are your plugs getting thrashed in such a short period of time? I haven't changed mine in 56,671 miles (as in original plugs) as of last week. They still look good, the gap is still at .35 and the engine runs like a top. I don't know why yours aren't lasting but you got some issues....
          [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
          [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
          http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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          • #50
            Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
            You should go talk to the person that installed that lift and get those bushings replaced no charge. That ain't right them wearing out that fast.
            Ouch...Rat. It was Joe and I that installed it. He torqued them. Believe me he runs right behind you and torque's everything.
            Ford Raptor 6.2l

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Tomb Raider 940 View Post
              Ouch...Rat. It was Joe and I that installed it. He torqued them. Believe me he runs right behind you and torque's everything.
              Josh,
              I thought Joe had a shop install that. I guess you and Joe better get on it, huh?
              Seriously, why do you think the bushings are wearing out so fast? Unless Joe decided to start running JV every weekend, I can't think of anything that would do that. I'm really curious now what's going on there.
              Kurt
              [CENTER][COLOR=#ff0000]Resistance Off Road
              [/COLOR]Join the Resistance...
              http://www.resistanceoffroad.us[/CENTER]

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              • #52
                Lol not me am leaving for vacation in one day. My bushings are fine. I dont know why they ae bad. My bushings are polyurethane. No probs here.

                Here is what description is for his lift.

                "Kit includes: Front and rear springs, drop pitman arm, heavy duty adjustable front track bar, drop track bar bracket, frame crossbrace stiffener, steel sleeves, front sway bar disconnects, rear track bar bracket, Billet aluminum bump stop extensions, 4 Full-Traction 5100 series hydraulic shocks with boots, polyurethane bushings, cad-plated transfer case drop down hardware, brake line extension brackets, and complete detailed instructions. "
                Ford Raptor 6.2l

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                • #53
                  The factory manual says to replace the spark plugs every 30K. It sure seems to run smoother and although the color and what not looked fine, a couple of them looked a bit worn. I think the new set cost under 20 bucks and I got a chance to get my hands dirty As far as the bushings, I don't know what the deal is (as Josh said, them puppies were torqued to exactly what the instructions said) . . . the rear ones look okay, but both front LCA's at the frame bad. Looks like the LCA is pushing thru and cutting the rubber lip that goes between the bracket and the LCA. Anybody got any ideas? :dunno: I've got the new bushings ordered, but I'd like to avoid the same thing happening again.

                  Here's what the bushings look like . . . the lip on the edge has split or been cut and is peeling away.

                  Last edited by Schmo; 08-03-08, 08:00 PM.
                  That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                  • #54
                    I did a search on the lift with full traction. The only complaints I found most of were of squeaking.
                    Ford Raptor 6.2l

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                    • #55
                      What about ball joints. Is that something you guys checked.

                      I would have come over Joe but been finishing a project.:smile:
                      Ford Raptor 6.2l

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                      • #56
                        Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                        Josh,
                        I thought Joe had a shop install that. I guess you and Joe better get on it, huh?
                        Seriously, why do you think the bushings are wearing out so fast? Unless Joe decided to start running JV every weekend, I can't think of anything that would do that. I'm really curious now what's going on there.
                        Kurt

                        Nope . . . I bit the bullet and decided to give it a whirl after helping Josh with his and seeing that it wasn't all that tough. Honestly, I think Josh and Rick did more of the work than I did, but I learned a lot! It all went together pretty smoothly and I went thru the instructions several times before, during, and after to make sure we did everything we were supposed to. I don't know what the deal with the bushings are. I remember them being hard and felt more like plastic, whereas the chunck I pulled off felt rubbery:dunno:
                        Last edited by Schmo; 08-03-08, 08:21 PM.
                        That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                        • #57
                          On your bushings, here is where the rub is they are not designed to flex a lot. Rubicon express has the same problem with their super flex arms same goes for JKS or Terra flex adjustable arms none are desingend to flex a lot the arms are rigid so the flex and movement of the axle gets taken up by the bushings and Urethane bushings are not designed to flex that much, so they will destroy them self fairly shortly.
                          TJ's tend to flex more in the front which is whythose bushings failed. Permanent fix find or make control arms with Johny joint at least on one side of the control arm. Curry or Rubicon express will sell you the arms or the parts to make them. You will also like the extra flex you will get. Anything else makes the suspension bind when wheeling in extreme terain.
                          For a check try to remove the springs and try to tip the axle at one side or the other takes a lot of force since the rigid arms and bushings bind everything up. Darn I wrote a book here

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                          • #58
                            Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                            OK, I'll bite. Why are your plugs getting thrashed in such a short period of time? I haven't changed mine in 56,671 miles (as in original plugs) as of last week. They still look good, the gap is still at .35 and the engine runs like a top.
                            I stayed at a Holiday Inn recently but it doesn't seem to help. Not sure why or even if it is related, but shortly before that my cat went out. All I know is that the TJ was idling really rough and the plugs were worn out. New plugs and everything ran fine.

                            As Joe mentioned, the FSM says to change them every 30K.

                            Originally posted by rat patrol View Post
                            you got some issues....
                            Yes... I have a Chrysler product.
                            [COLOR="Blue"]If you don't have the time to do it right, what makes you think you'll have the time to do it twice?[/COLOR]

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Tomb Raider 940 View Post
                              What about ball joints. Is that something you guys checked.
                              Not sure what you are referring to? Are the ball joints the things that replace the bushing? I saw something like that but remember reading something about them providing more flex but they transfer more vibe than the bushing.
                              That which does not kill me postpones the inevitable.

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                              • #60
                                The ball joints hold the spindle to the front axle its what allows the wheels to turn left to right

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